Help: Car won’t start

[Shane65]

68 Barracuda w/ 318, has been running fine for about the last year. Last week started right up. Yesterday I go to start it, turn the key and absolutely nothing. But I’m getting power, lights work, battery is charged, reading 12.2volts.. last time when the starter went out it was a slow death, slowly failed over time. Which leads me to believe this isn’t the starter. Starter solenoid maybe? What else am I overlooking? Ignition was replaced 2-3 years ago. Again it makes zero noise when I turn the key. No clicks nothing.

 

[TrailBeast]

68 Barracuda w/ 318, has been running fine for about the last year. Last week started right up. Yesterday I go to start it, turn the key and absolutely nothing. But I’m getting power, lights work, battery is charged, reading 12.2volts.. last time when the starter went out it was a slow death, slowly failed over time. Which leads me to believe this isn’t the starter. Starter solenoid maybe? What else am I overlooking? Ignition was replaced 2-3 years ago. Again it makes zero noise when I turn the key. No clicks nothing.

Does it start if you jumper the starter relay?
If automatic, it’s in park or neutral all the way?
Did your neutral safety connector come off the switch at the trans?

 

[Professor Fate]

Year/model?
What exactly do you mean when you say "ignition was replaced"?
Just new tune up parts on a points system, swapped to an electronic ignition, swapped in an MSD/DUI/Pertronix etc.?

 

[Tanker]

68 Barracuda w/ 318, has been running fine for about the last year. Last week started right up. Yesterday I go to start it, turn the key and absolutely nothing. But I’m getting power, lights work, battery is charged, reading 12.2volts.. last time when the starter went out it was a slow death, slowly failed over time. Which leads me to believe this isn’t the starter. Starter solenoid maybe? What else am I overlooking? Ignition was replaced 2-3 years ago. Again it makes zero noise when I turn the key. No clicks nothing.

Follow TrailBeast’s advice and put a jumper on the starter relay. That will tell you immediately if the starter is an issue.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Also.. clean the battery posts and battery cables

 

[72bluNblu]

Follow TrailBeast’s advice and put a jumper on the starter relay. That will tell you immediately if the starter is an issue.

Just make sure it's in park or neutral first!

 

[Shane65]

Does it start if you jumper the starter relay?
If automatic, it’s in park or neutral all the way?
Did your neutral safety connector come off the switch at the trans?

Thanks for your advice TrailBeast, but I’ve never tried to jumper the starter relay… what’s the best/easiest way to do this?

BTW car is a manual…

 

[TT5.9mag]

 

[memike]

Yep, DDG is a fun and good go to youtube page, thank you for sharing this to help the OP out.

 

[Shane65]

Ok I’m 4:30 in, and came across something peculiar… he said he likes to turn in his headlights to see if he’s getting power… so I mgetting power to my gauges etc, but when I go to turn in my headlights, nothing…

 

[TT5.9mag]

Ok I’m 4:30 in, and came across something peculiar… he said he likes to turn in his headlights to see if he’s getting power… so I mgetting power to my gauges etc, but when I go to turn in my headlights, nothing…

If your battery cables are loose or corroded, when you measure them static they will show voltage. When you try to pull a big load, lights/starter, the voltage will drop off. Check connections at BOTH ends of your battery cables first. Power and ground.

 

[Shane65]

Welp the plot thickens… I checked my fuse coming off my battery, it was fine. I unplugged both connections in the ballast resistor, then re-connected them. I jiggled a couple wires coming out of my firewall. And now all the sudden the car starts.. I saw a faint trail of smoke coming up right when I started it, I ran around to the engine bay while it was running and it dissipated, and i couldn’t pin point where it came from. I could smell a faint smell of burnt plastic/rubber, but it went away. I sat there for 5 min while it was running trying to find where that might’ve come from, but nothing… not sure exactly what needs attention, but it’s running for the moment.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Welp the plot thickens… I checked my fuse coming off my battery, it was fine. I unplugged both connections in the ballast resistor, then re-connected them. I jiggled a couple wires coming out of my firewall. And now all the sudden the car starts.. not sure exactly what needs attention, but it’s running for the moment.

Great to hear, the coil had no power/spark.

Was it cranking over before?
Some details were definitely missing if so lol

 

[Shane65]

Great to hear, the coil had no power/spark.

Was it cranking over before?
Some details were definitely missing if so lol

Last week it was cranking over and starting perfectly… has been for about a year. But yesterday there was absolutely nothing happening when I turned the key, just the gauges would power on.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Last week it was cranking over and starting perfectly… has been for about a year. But yesterday there was absolutely nothing happening when I turned the key, just the gauges would power on.

Oh ok. Time to clean all the connection points then

 

[TT5.9mag]

The problem is most likely at your bulkhead connector. The ballast resistor wiring has nothing to do with cranking the car. Go pull the connector apart and inspect the wiring like someone mentioned early in the thread.

 

[Mattax]

Yep, DDG is a fun and good go to youtube page, thank you for sharing this to help the OP out.

You got me to look.
Maybe its helpful but the diagram is wrong.

 

[Mattax]

battery is charged, reading 12.2volts..

That's low for a voltage reading. 12.5 to 12.8 V is where it should be for fully charge depending on condition of battery.

Ok I’m 4:30 in, and came across something peculiar… he said he likes to turn in his headlights to see if he’s getting power… so I mgetting power to my gauges etc, but when I go to turn in my headlights, nothing…

Should be no power to gages unless the key is in run position.
Headlight and parking lights get power even with the key off.
The test is to turn on the parking lights and look at the instrument panel. The ammeter should show slight discharge and the instrument panel lights should be on. Then get out and check the oarking lights to confirm.
Pull the switch to the headlight position. The ammeter should show about 10 amps discharge and the headlights should be reasonably bright. They will not be as bright as they get when the engine is running.

I jiggled a couple wires coming out of my firewall.

And now all the sudden the car starts.. I saw a faint trail of smoke coming up right when I started it, I ran around to the engine bay while it was running and it dissipated, and i couldn’t pin point where it came from. I could smell a faint smell of burnt plastic/rubber, but it went away. I sat there for 5 min while it was running trying to find where that might’ve come from, but nothing… not sure exactly what needs attention, but it’s running for the moment.

Last week it was cranking over and starting perfectly… has been for about a year. But yesterday there was absolutely nothing happening when I turned the key, just the gauges would power on.

Big clues here.
1. Sitting a year, the battery is a bit low. Best to charge on a slow charger.
2. Seems like there are loose terminals, probably damaged connectors, and as others have already mentioned, probably some oxidation or corrossion. Begin at the big battery cables to remove, check and clean.

1968 main circuits are arranged like this

Amperes is a measurment of electrons moving. The ammeter shows electrons flowing through it to or from the battery.
Power from the battery to the starter solenoid and starter motor branches off at the starter relay and does not go through the fusible link or the ammeter.
Starting current flow in three diagrams

 

[Mattax]

Tips for removing the bulkhead connector engine side. question on the main harness plug on firewall

If the plastic connector is damaged the terminals may back out and not fully engage the mating terminal.
Replacement connectors are available, along with new foam seals.

Discussions on cleaning here:
Cleaning bulkhead connectors

I also like De-Oxit products and a fiberglass brush (looks like a fat mechanical pencil) for cleaning.