Help from experts wanted.

Discussion in 'Fuel and Air Systems' started by Elís Máni, Jul 30, 2018.

  1. Elís Máni

    Elís Máni Active Member

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    So here is the deal.
    I have a 73 duster with a 78 360 (wich i think is pretty stock) and a 727. It currently has a Torker 340 intake and a Holley 650 DP wich i suspect has too large jets.
    I am thinking to buy a new intake manifold and i have my eye on the Edelbrock performer and the Edelbrock air-gap Rpm.
    If anyone could help me decide wich one i should get (or nither?) It would be great
    The carb i am wondering weather i should try and fix it up with some new jets or just get myself a brand new one (wich might put a small dent in the budget :þ )
    Ive never really worked on american v8 before so bear with me here.
    Any thought or ideas?
    Thank you :D
     
  2. Steven190

    Steven190 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I am using the air gap on a 360 with a 650 or 700 carb. That is my chose for the street car. Results will vary, as what to use.
     
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    • General Disarray

      General Disarray Well-Known Member

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      Air Gap. Great on 360s.
       
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      • 67Dart273

        67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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        I don't think a torker is what you want at all for a mostly stock (cam) engine. I doubt an RPM is, either With a stock cam the performer, or even dredge up a STOCK iron 340/360 manifold. They have been proven, again and again, to be pretty darn good performers, except for weight
         
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        • Elís Máni

          Elís Máni Active Member

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          I didnt put the engine in the car wich is why i suspect it is stock. all i have seen of the internals is the rockers and they seem stock. also the torker came on the engine when i bought it. the thing is i wish to buy an intake and carp that i can also use when i find myself a new motor for it (since i am not happy at all with the current motor) would the rpm gove me good throttle response on a motor like this. currently when i press the throttle slightly it really just wants to bog and die. i have to give it quite a push to be allright.
           
        • dirty white boy

          dirty white boy 47 yr old Juvenal delinquent

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          air gap!!! tune your 650 to your motor!! money saved on new carb could go to a new cam or headers depending on what your wanting outta the car when done! bogging carb is a tune issue! if carb ant in tune, doubt timings right ether, never seen any body happy with a torker, air gap is the go to intake from stock threw mild into wild even...
           
          Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
        • Elís Máni

          Elís Máni Active Member

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          That seems like a great plan :þ
          I think i might do that :D
           
        • OL DODGE

          OL DODGE Well-Known Member

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          I had a stock 340 factory intake which is similar to a Performer and was using it with a 650 Holley DP and liked the combo-very streetable-and it had heat crossovers which helped the driveability. It had a mild cam in the old engine . My new engine has an air gap which is good with my much bigger cam but it should be noted is not as driveable cold and has caused some tuning revisions because of the longer runners and lack of heat passages. Guess it depends what your end goal is Everything has a trade off Hope this helps
           
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          • Elís Máni

            Elís Máni Active Member

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            but do you think that the engine im running atm would be good of using the airgapa and a 650?
             
          • Gamedog

            Gamedog Well-Known Member

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            1. Order Air Gap
            2. Remove old manifold
            3. Install Air Gap
            4. Tune carb you have now
            5. ?????
            6. PROFIT
             
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            • AJ/FormS

              AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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              No headers? no cam? AG almost waste of time and money, especially in Iceland.
              650DP is fine for now.Fix the 650 if she stumbles.
              Want more performance? add 20 to 30% more rear gear and call it done.

              Del (67 art 273) hit a homer in post#4
              followed closely by Ol Dodge in #8
              You didn't mention your elevation, but I see some points over there are near 7000 ft, and that is gonna put a big monkey wrench into the equation. Ima thinkin that old girl wants cast iron up there. I you are driving that car with a 2000 ft elevation change, you are gonna have trouble. And the single plain Torquer is gonna make it worse. You will need a small plenum dualplain, cast iron is good, with carb heat, and a heated air intake to stabilize the inlet air temperature.Then tune for that.
              Forget the AirGap for that environment
              The Torquer will work pretty good at near sealevel, with a properly set up DPcarb
               
              Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
            • crackedback

              crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Ignition timing first. Initial and total getting the idle under control. Sounds like it running rich from the jetting comment and most of the time it has little or nothing to do with the Jetting.
               
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              • 340sFastback

                340sFastback Well-Known Member

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                Pretty sure Performer has the smaller ports like 318 heads. Performer RPM and RPM Air Gap have the 340 360 ports. Dual plane RPM gonna help low end torque compared to sit gle plane. And RPM not giving up much up top compared to Torquer on a mild engine.
                 
              • DJC

                DJC Well-Known Member

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                What makes you suspect the carb jetting? The bog on acceleration could be the accellerator pump adjustment, or a leaking pump diaphragm. Unless the carb is defective, you should be fine with it, now and in the future. They aren't hard to disassemble (see if you can find a good book or do lots of Googling) and you can see what jets are currently in there - start off by knowing what you have. Does it have a choke (Manual or electric)? I don't know what your parts availability is over there, but you can get sets of gaskets and such so you can tinker all you want.

                Once you know what your carb has in it, and that there's no crap i the bowl, and that the initial float levels are set and the accelerator pump is close to what it should be, then you can put it back on and get the timing set as mentioned above. Getting these 2 systems close to correct will give you a decent idea of what you should do next.

                I have the Torker 340 on my 360. It has a lousy reputation, and I would/will change it when I can, but for now, the car runs fine with it. I'm not racing it, and it's summer here and I'm at sea level.

                I know it's tempting to throw new parts on, but if doing that doesn't help or makes matters worse, then you just end up more frustrated.
                 
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                • DJC

                  DJC Well-Known Member

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                  Oh, and to be clear, I'm far from an expert, just another guy who's doing the same thing you are. Maybe just a little further along the process.:thumbsup:
                   
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                  • Elís Máni

                    Elís Máni Active Member

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                    The reason is because the previouce owner said he fiddled with the carp and changed some parts out because the car was running too lean and the ajustment screws didnt help. When i got it i noticed that the gas filter was bubbling. It was drawing in alot of air along with the gas. When i fixed the filter so no air could get in it it started running somewhat better but now running too rich (Dont remember if the boging was a thing)before i fixed it) i just kinda assume that it is getting too much gas. I ajusted the screws and now it starts up great and drives but it has that issue with throttle response. Currently it idles at about 1250rmp maybe even more (isnt that a bit high?) When i press the gas pedal a bit it loses all power and wants to shut off but if i give it some more it seems normal. This is Very noticable when driving.
                     
                  • dirty white boy

                    dirty white boy 47 yr old Juvenal delinquent

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                  • DJC

                    DJC Well-Known Member

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                    First, check the accelerator pump adjustment (lookup a diagram for carb part descriptions on google or youtube). That not being tight enough could cause the bog.

                    1250 is too high for an engine unless it has problems or a super nasty cam. Try bringing it down and see what happens. If it wants to stall then adjust the idle mixture screws and see if that helps. You can start by adjusting them in all thw way (not TIGHT) and then back out 1.5 turns as a starting point. They should be the same side to side.

                    Also learn how to set your float levels.
                     
                  • rumblefish360

                    rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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                    Been there done that, Edelbrock RPM is the wise choice on hopped up engines.

                    However! Since your closer to a stock engine....

                    AJ was correct about posts #4 & #8.
                    A stock intake or a Performer will be the best.
                     
                  • jos51700

                    jos51700 Well-Known Member

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                    Get it tuned properly before you change a thing. I had your combo in a '79 2wd swb, and it would put you back in the seat. On teardown I discovered a stock '340/360 four barrel cam. This was with manifolds, and an unknown but presumably stock torque converter, too.

                    Until it's running right, you won't know what you really want to change about it.
                     
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                    • AJ/FormS

                      AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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                      agreed
                       
                    • 70aarcuda

                      70aarcuda Master Hoader of SBM FABO Gold Member

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                      In Iceland I think I would run the performer rpm and not the air gap....given the performer rpm has is heated..

                      do as Crackedback says...get your timing set correctly and you will be amazed how the carb runs.
                       
                    • crackedback

                      crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Please put a timing light on it and crank some initial timing into it.

                      Simple test, at idle, turn dist CCW and see if it picks up rpm. If it does the engine wants the timing. Everything that you wrote point to insufficient initial timing. Get it started, set timing to 18* and turn the idle down. If timing drops, add it back and lower the rpm. See where the idle ends up with 18* of timing. Most engines unless they are cammed crazy should idle in the 750-950 range.
                       
                    • Elís Máni

                      Elís Máni Active Member

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                      Yeah allwais since i got the car i thought it was idling too fast. But allright i will start with the timing and try to get it right before i change anything. Thank you :D
                       
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