Help! How to remove the lower arm bushing?

Early A-Body Discussions

  1. 1966DartConvertible

    1966DartConvertible Well-Known Member

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    Hi there

    Wondering if anyone can help me out. Is there a special way to get the damn bushing out of the lower arm? I tried but couldnt. Do you just mount it on a vice and "push" it out or is there a better way?

    [​IMG]

    Im a newbie, hence the question.

    Thanks

    Syed
     
  2. JR

    JR Pissed off senior member.

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    Got a torch and a chisel? I heat up the bushing and it slides out then chisel out the shell.
     
  3. 1970Duster

    1970Duster Well-Known Member

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    A press works great too
     
  4. yooper822

    yooper822 Joe Roberts

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    I used the mig to tack a washer in it and used a puller on it.

    You can see the puller I made out of all thread and a piece of capped pipe.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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    You can get a pretty inexpensive shop press from Harbor Freight. If you are gonna be doin any kinda work on your car yourself, you need one anyway.
     
  6. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    With what you got> burn the rubber out and use a hacksaw to cut a section of the sleeve out and then collapse it onto itself and pull out. Its a stinky job.
     
  7. 1966DartConvertible

    1966DartConvertible Well-Known Member

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    On a side note,

    Are the lower control arm bushings size the same for all A-bodies? what about between slant vs v8? are the arm themselves different?

    I asked coz the bushing i ordered "seems" a little too small in diameter, although i havent taken out the old bushing/sleeve yet (will do so on friday). But to the naked eye, the bushing looks too small for my '66 dart.

    Can someone enlighten me on this? :)
     
  8. 1970Duster

    1970Duster Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure they are the same and the biggest difference is the /6, v8 k member and the size of the torsion bars (how thick they are)
     
  9. hoosierdaddy

    hoosierdaddy Well-Known Member

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  10. dustermaniac

    dustermaniac Senior Member

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    I used a little wheel bearing grease on the new bushings to help them go into the arms easier.
     
  11. Hell_Fish

    Hell_Fish Well-Known Member

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    poly bushings are a bit smaller
     
  12. 66 Dartman

    66 Dartman Well-Known Member

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    I used a die grinder and ground a groove in it and chiseled it out, Be careful when doing the inner one not to hit the LCA socket. You will need a press to assemble it.
     
  13. Moparmarcus

    Moparmarcus Well-Known Member

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  14. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    Poly bushings use the outer sleeve, DONT take it out if you are going to poly bushings! Just take the rubber out, sand it smooth and lube it up. Then press in the stud with your boot heel, its that EZ to go in.
    Moparmarcus, your sig is cool, but a little distracting..I keep looking at the new rifles when they change!
     
  15. BillGrissom

    BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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    Haven't done myself, but had it done on several Mopars (A & C body). A good auto machine shop can change your LCA bushing for ~$20 labor ea. Once a local auto parts w/ shop declined because they said they had messed up too many control arms by pressing. I expect you need to support it correctly.

    I have seen at least one kit with a threaded rod and cylinders that can be used to remove and install the bushings, similar to yooper182's design, but no welding just wrenching. I recall the cost was ~$50.

    I recently got the 12-ton Harbor Freight press, so next time will try myself. Paid $90 (sale, plus -25% coupon). They have a cheaper A-frame model but too small for most jobs. Already used my press to assemble clutch packs in an A604 transmission. I need to find some arbor adapters for the press.

    Re polyurethane bushings, read first. People have expressed concern that the LCA could slide back on the bushing (push out wire retainer in cross-arm). Haven't read of any actual problem, but study it.

    If you also do your UCA's, the bushings are similar. But don't let a clueless machinist press the upper ball joints out. They are threaded in. I bought the special square socket to install, after I removed with a big pipe wrench (scratched some paint). There is a small and large size ball joint - pre and post ~1973 I recall.

    MoparMarcus, you might want to revise your sig. Urkel's chart is up >20% since July.
     
  16. yooper822

    yooper822 Joe Roberts

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    I have this tool, unfortunately it sucked the bushing out and left the metal shell in. I paid about the same price. Seems like nothing comes easy in these old cars but....the juice is worth the squeeze!
     
  17. cosgig

    cosgig MoBro Inc. FABO Gold Member

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    +2 on leaving the sleeve in if you are going to the poly bushings, and by the sound of your post about it being smaller, it would appear that you are going with the poly. You need the outer sleeve in there for the poly, so don't damage it trying to get the rubber out!!! Geof
     
  18. 1966DartConvertible

    1966DartConvertible Well-Known Member

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    Nope. Not poly. see here:

    http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=128411
     
  19. cosgig

    cosgig MoBro Inc. FABO Gold Member

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    Sorry 66, didn't see the link. If it's OE then the sleeve must come out, and the above posts are right on the money!! The fixture is the best route to go, but any of the above methods will work. Just be careful, as mentioned, not to score the LCA when removing the sleeve. Good luck with the project!!! Geof
     
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