Help me build a fast 440!

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If you spread your money around, you won't know which mod gave you the most bang for the buck.
What if one mod made you quicker, and a second one made you slower. Then you go out to test it and you get a big fat disappointment. What will you do next? I would concentrate on traction first.
Zero to 65 is usually a 1gear to 1.5gear deal. And most of the time is spent spinning the tires.Of what use is extending the operating rpm a few hundred rpm. Remember you are trading away bottom end for top end.
With 3.55s, and 88s(sorry 88=28xpi), 6200 in first is about 56mph. 60 will be 6650. So to trap 60=6650 you might want your powerpeak to be at 6300. That's a pretty high peak.Many sizes bigger than the 284.
better it is to gear it to trap60 in second gear. Then you can put a smaller cam in there,with a lower power-peak, and now, because you are using two gears to get there, you may put down more average power during the run, and thus go quicker, with less, no less,lol.
Suppose you buy into this and get yourself a 270FTh cam. This is about 2 sizes smaller. And maybe 30/40 hp given up.And the power peak came down about 400 rpm.
If the 284 peaked at 5200. this new cam might peak at 4800, so the trap speed might be 4800/.95= 5050.To spin that in second at 65mph will require 4.30s. . That 727 has a 1-2 split of 59%. So it might want a 1-2 shift of 5800(46mph), to drop in at 3422. Now you race up the rpm band,putting down near max torque at first and then very near max power from say 4300 to 5200. This will be from 54 to 66mph.
If you plot this on a graph, you will see that you went thru the power band TWICE! Once from 32 mph to 39 mph, and again from 54 to 66 mph.So if you calculate the average power from zero to 65 mph, at say 4 mph increments, with each cam;I bet the smaller cam may get the job done. And the smaller cam will not need a high-rise intake or big heads or anything.
More average power between any two points, almost always wins.
More gears almost always wins.
Never race a Mustang from a standing start. Make him get into second, then show him how it's done.
 
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Here is one that will fit under the hood and make big power

20170528_183353.jpg


20170528_183420.jpg
 
If you spread your money around, you won't know which mod gave you the most bang for the buck.
What if one mod made you quicker, and a second one made you slower. Then you go out to test it and you get a big fat disappointment. What will you do next? I would concentrate on traction first.
Zero to 65 is usually a 1gear to 1.5gear deal. And most of the time is spent spinning the tires.Of what use is extending the operating rpm a few hundred rpm. Remember you are trading away bottom end for top end.
With 3.55s, and 88s(sorry 88=28xpi), 6200 in first is about 56mph. 60 will be 6650. So to trap 60=6650 you might want your powerpeak to be at 6300. That's a pretty high peak.Many sizes bigger than the 284.
better it is to gear it to trap60 in second gear. Then you can put a smaller cam in there,with a lower power-peak, and now, because you are using two gears to get there, you may put down more average power during the run, and thus go quicker, with less, no less,lol.
Suppose you buy into this and get yourself a 270FTh cam. This is about 2 sizes smaller. And maybe 30/40 hp given up.And the power peak came down about 400 rpm.
If the 284 peaked at 5200. this new cam might peak at 4800, so the trap speed might be 4800/.95= 5050.To spin that in second at 65mph will require 4.30s. . That 727 has a 1-2 split of 59%. So it might want a 1-2 shift of 5800(46mph), to drop in at 3422. Now you race up the rpm band,putting down near max torque at first and then very near max power from say 4300 to 5200. This will be from 54 to 66mph.
If you plot this on a graph, you will see that you went thru the power band TWICE! Once from 32 mph to 39 mph, and again from 54 to 66 mph.So if you calculate the average power from zero to 65 mph, at say 4 mph increments, with each cam;I bet the smaller cam may get the job done. And the smaller cam will not need a high-rise intake or big heads or anything.
More average power between any two points, almost always wins.
More gears almost always wins.
Never race a Mustang from a standing start. Make him get into second, then show him how it's done.
dam dude, u get technical! LOL
 
Like I said, I used an M1 on my 71 Dart with a factory hood and a 440 - here is a video to show you:



If the M1 fits with a drop air cleaner, the Holley will as well.
 
IQ52 has a ton of knowledge and can point you in the right direction. Read some of his motor build threads if you have any doubts. Better to listen to one guy that knows rather than trying combine everything the peanut gallery is throwing at you. You have a good platform to start with and just need the finishing touches.
AGREE W/THIS ! But remember, Chrysler heads for big blocks suck, unless their max wedge, and even then rats have them beat !
 
well..not sure..lol..I guess im trying to get ideas on a certain head and a certain intake we all can decide on, then start pricing those certain items and go from there. Like i said, there is so many aluminum heads and intakes out there now that i have no clue what everyone likes the best, etc.. The reason i want heads is because everyone says the aluminums flow more out of the box than most good port jobs on iron heads..and also for the wight savings..I see edelbrock has several heads for big blocks, then there is trick flow, indy, 440 source, and more.. If i remember right from the past, Indys are probably out of my price range..

So this is to be 'an engine by three forum committee'?

I recuse myself.
 
So this is to be 'an engine by three forum committee'?

I recuse myself.
I just want ideas from everyone..and i would say you are a bit smarter than i am with this stuff by looking at your ride, thats why i ask you all for advice..
 
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Like I said, I used an M1 on my 71 Dart with a factory hood and a 440 - here is a video to show you:



If the M1 fits with a drop air cleaner, the Holley will as well.


Is that M1 a good one, or as good as the SD, torker, performer rpm? What size tire and rim you running on the back of that dart? I like that!!
 
Mopower440, I would sat M1 is a good intake, worked well on my 440, as for tires I believe they where Hoosier 28.5's, rear end had 4:30's - car only pulled 11:90's at altitude. As for Intakes, I would say it depends on what you are looking for. Performer has a good reputation - But build to what you are looking for.
 
I just want ideas from everyone..and i would say you are a bit smarter than i am with this stuff by looking at your ride, thats why i ask you all for advice..
He`s smarter than a lot of us ! Course that ain`t sayin much as far as I`m concerned ! ----LOL
 
Thread is 3 years old. Not sure if the OP ever made any changes or not. I don't recall seeing an update.
 
Old thread revival!!!

It’s missing the most important question though...

What do you consider fast?
 
The most important question; HOW much of the OP's money is he going to let us spend? LMAO
 
Currently the combo is: 1975 model 440 bored .030 over fitted with TRW 2355 six pack pistons with bone stock 452 heads. compression is right around 9.2:1. It has the MP 284/484 cam installed 4 degrees advanced. Factory stock cast iron intake. Demon sizzler prepped thermoquad carb that does really well. Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell headers, and a 3000 stall convertor that also works quite well. It is a torque monster but quits pulling hard way before 6000 rpm..

Your issues...

Low compression
Poor heads
small hydraulic cam
Poor intake

To start, the RPM is not an issue nor a surprise. I've never had a 440 make peak power over 6,000 RPm including my current engine that makes 602HP @5,900RPM.

Heads could remedy 2 of those issues and is where i'd spend my money. i'd recommend performer RPm or trick flow heads. YOu really can't pick a new cam until after you have the heads you plan to run.
 
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