Help me decide which radiator to get

[remytherat]

69 Dart, 5.9 magnum, early timing cover and water pump with outlet on drivers side. Current radiator is a little gummed up and not up to the task of summer (the worst of which is yet to come).

I have 2 local and very cheap options:
Option 1: '68 b body radiator (22"), with 4 cores
Option 2: 3 core champion aluminum with outlet on the other side, requiring a change of water pump

With one would be the least hassle and best in the long run? I'm open to running either mechanical or electric fans.

 

[dano]

The switch to '70 up water pump also requires the timing cover to match. Auto or Manual trans?

Can you get the one you have fixed?

 

[72bluNblu]

Neither.

The 4 core will likely be too deep for your current mechanical fan AND any decent stand alone electric fan you might consider. B/E bodies have more space between the engine and radiator so it's less of an issue for them.

Your best bet is to find something with the inlet/outlet on the correct sides, in a 2 or 3 core at most so you can keep your mechanical fan or run a decent electric fan (assuming you also want to upgrade your alternator, add a relay system, and a decent fan controller).

Something like this, which is a 22" KKS 3 row (I currently run a 26" KKS 3 row in my Duster)

Pardon Our Interruption...

Or this, which is an ACC 22" 2 row (1-1/8" tubes). Looks a bit more factory in the tanks, but doesn't list all the dimensions. It's probably a little deeper than the KKS, which should probably be ok.

Pardon Our Interruption...

And just as a note, make sure you check to your own satisfaction the dimensions of everything. I have not run either of these, and I'm not endorsing the sellers either. Just examples for you to go off of.

 

[abodyjoe]

The switch to '70 up water pump also requires the timing cover to match. Auto or Manual trans?

timing mark on the balancer will be in th ewrong spot because the newer timing cover moves the timing mark.

 

[dano]

timing mark on the balancer will be in th ewrong spot because the newer timing cover moves the timing mark.

Good point, forgot about that.

 

[Bewy]

Alum rad with minimum two rows of 1" tubes. It is more efficient [ sheds more heat ] than a copper rad. It is also stronger than a copper rad because it is welded/brazed, not soft soldered.
Most people do not understand WHY the alum is better, even though copper is a better heat conductor. It is all about the fins attached to the tubes. It is the ' finning' that sheds the heat & the longer tubes used with alum rad allows for better louvre designs in the fins to remove heat & more exposure to the air to remove the heat.