help me see the difference

RedFish

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I'm looking at the precut masks for painting Magnum 500 wheels. Search shows these for Ford or Chrysler. I don't see a major difference. I know mine use chromed trim rings instead of being chromed at the wheel. They came off of a 67 Mustang. I don't know they were original equipment to that car. I guess I should look for logos on them.
precut mask for painting magnum 500 wheels - Search
 

rbkt65

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if i remember right, the ford register where the wheel sits on the axle hub is smaller. seems i remember the saying "mopar to ford but not ford to mopar."
 

RedFish

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These wheels need some rust and flaked paint removed. What media and affordable blaster would you recommend?
 

RedFish

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before spending any money on them, see if they will fit flush on your car and bolt up.
Of course we will check fitment. My junior wants to help with this small project for my Christmas. I've got a decent compumper (5 hp Sanborn) so we are looking at the handheld blasters with small hopper at Horrible Freight. I know I can use sand on common steel wheels but thought it would be smart to ask about these magnums.
Maybe there will be more input tomorrow morn. Thanks
 

plumkrazee70

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I did a set of Rally wheels in the stand up cabinet from HF. The 14" wheel fit inside, no prob. I don't have any experience with handled blasters. I used the aluminum oxide from HF

What material are those wheels made from? Are they chrome plated?

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RedFish

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I honestly don't know how the magnum wheel is made. Most of it is basic steel and painted to prevent rust while other smaller areas are a steel gray color that doesn't rust. No chrome on the set that I have although others are chromed and don't require trim rings.
I sand blasted a set of rallyes once years ago and didn't clean all the sand out of the little crack or nip where the center meets the wheel. That is where the new rust started.
 

plumkrazee70

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I honestly don't know how the magnum wheel is made. Most of it is basic steel and painted to prevent rust while other smaller areas are a steel gray color that doesn't rust. No chrome on the set that I have although others are chromed and don't require trim rings.
I sand blasted a set of rallyes once years ago and didn't clean all the sand out of the little crack or nip where the center meets the wheel. That is where the new rust started.

We'll shoot if they are all steel, I would blast them with alum oxide, then go over them with some 400grit just to smooth them out. Clean them really good (making sure.all your sand is out) prime and paint. I just used spray bombs on the wheels above, but I've gotten way more comfortable with a spray gun.

Chrysler PS2 (Bright Silver Metallic) would be a good choice along with whatever black if you want.
 

67Dart273

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I can't help you but DAMN Redfish good to see you up and around so to speak
 

memike

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I know you would like your young fellow to help, but what about a paint stripper?
Apply it and then I lay plastic over the area, let it set a half hour or more, pull it off and then use a wet rag to remove it, using gloves of course
 

norshorblufish

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Original equipment Magnum 500s for 67 Mustangs were made of steel. Repops could be aluminum after 73 that’s what Ford started to make them from.
Yours sound like they are steel.
 

RedFish

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Original equipment Magnum 500s for 67 Mustangs were made of steel. Repops could be aluminum after 73 that’s what Ford started to make them from.
Yours sound like they are steel.
These are OEM and made of steel but something keeps the spoke portions from rusting like the painted portion does. Maybe there is enough nickel in areas that make it nearly dull stainless. I just don't know. The bigger question is "what media to use in the blaster?" I could buy the painting masks and try to protect those unpainted areas, but the masks are only peel and stick vinyl. It might stand up to soda but I figure sand would destroy it.
 

RedFish

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mcodecuda

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Screw the masking. Shoot everything in black and then wipe the areas where you don’t want painted black with lacquer thinner and a rag.
 

RedFish

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Wife bought me a little 25 dollar blaster at harbor freight for Christmas. I guess I'll experiment with the various medias.
 

JDMopar

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Wife bought me a little 25 dollar blaster at harbor freight for Christmas. I guess I'll experiment with the various medias.
Just be sure to wear a tight-fitting respirator while blasting. The silica in most blasting media will kill you graveyard dead from silicosis. Northern Tool usually has glass media for a decent price, and it works well. I previously had sand in my blast cabinet, but recently swapped it out to the glass. It works MUCH better.
 

George Jets

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Could just carefully Hand sand the rusted areas with 80 grit then 180 grit, then mask them off with masking tape and masking paper.

Then just repaint the affected areas.
 

RedFish

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Could just carefully Hand sand the rusted areas with 80 grit then 180 grit, then mask them off with masking tape and masking paper.

Then just repaint the affected areas.
Been there, done that. Masking 4 of these wheels with a roll of tape took far too much time and effort. That was back when I didn't have arthritis in my hands. Even worse today due to my weakness. I still can't hold the button on a spray bomb down for more than a minute. I can strike thee grille lighter now. Maybe you come and renew these wheels while I cook the burgers? LOL Seriously... I got a blaster gun for Christmas and I've already ordered the peel and stick masks. My junior will shoot them for me. I still question how abrasive a media I will need to get the appliance epoxy off that I shot them with before. Merry Christmas.
 
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