Help solve Exhaust/Suspension Interference

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. Joeycurl

    Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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    Hi Everyone,

    Just wondering if anyone had issues with clearance between the suspension arm and exhaust in a Demon with a 440. I do notice some issues while driving when the suspension is articulating a lot (e.g. bumpy roads or long bounce). Car has TTI shorties and custom exhaust. Any solutions or suggestions? also posted in suspension forum.
    IMG_2175.JPG
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  2. Demonracer

    Demonracer 71 Demon 00 Ram 16 Chrysler 300S 05 Caravan FABO Gold Member

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    You may have to put a shim in for it to clear unless someone else has any ideas.
     
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    • 33IMP

      33IMP Well-Known Member

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      Dent the pipe. (Beware... you might lose as much as a tenth of one horsepower.)
       
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      • Joeycurl

        Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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        Currently the pipe is dented right where the arm is.
         
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        • 33IMP

          33IMP Well-Known Member

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          Then dent it more. There is a famous engine masters episode where they took a sledge hammer to a set of headers, looking for a horsepower loss. After three sessions of bashing dents in them , they had to almost mash the tubing flat, to notice any significant power loss.
           
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          • dadsbee

            dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            A bigger dent, remake the pipe correct, or go over to a muffler shop and get a pipe flange plate, two gaskets and two longer bolts.
             
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            • TF360

              TF360 Well-Known Member

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              Is it possible to put some type of pry bar in there and bend it some, or would that cause damage somewhere else?
               
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              • dadsbee

                dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Probably get away with it, pending the wall thickness on that pipe. Just don't put a nick in that torsion bar!
                 
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                • Joeycurl

                  Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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                  Thanks guys!
                   
                • 72Dart6pack

                  72Dart6pack Harder Better Faster Stronger.

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                  The actual power loss will be .00000005 % are you willing to take that kinda loss? Same power loss as driving with a 8 oz bottle of water in the cup holder. It will increase your 1/4 mile time.
                   
                  Last edited: Dec 18, 2020
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                  • 69_340_GTS

                    69_340_GTS Well-Known Member

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                    Sagging motor mounts, or maybe the existing ones need shimming? (to level, or un-level the motor, whatever is needed).
                     
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                    • Joeycurl

                      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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                      The motor is shimmed .25" to get clearance for the steering box. Think the route to go is having the flange and/or section of the pipe remade
                       
                    • dadsbee

                      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Why I suggested just getting a bare flange, two gaskets and two longer bolts. Easy way to space it down 1/4"
                       
                    • CRUZE 418

                      CRUZE 418 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Get rid of your stock suspension.
                       
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                      • replicaracer43

                        replicaracer43 Grumpy Old Man

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                        The biggest issue is your drag link looks like its installed backwards.
                         
                      • replicaracer43

                        replicaracer43 Grumpy Old Man

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                        The body of the inner tie rods ends should be to the front of the car, with the nuts to the rear. Yours is assembled backwards
                         
                      • dadsbee

                        dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        I had looked at the picture and thought he had an issue with his torsion bar hitting the exhaust, why I suggested the extra flange to space the pipe down. YES... his center link is installed backwards as are his tie rod end.

                        1969dartswingercleanupweek2 092.JPG
                         
                      • Demonracer

                        Demonracer 71 Demon 00 Ram 16 Chrysler 300S 05 Caravan FABO Gold Member

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                        Dang, I'm surprised all of us missed that. We must be getting old & our attention span is waning. LOL.
                         
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                        • clementine

                          clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                          Thats a great catch grumpy ol man!
                           
                        • MOPAROFFICIAL

                          MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          How about the nut on the idler.
                           
                        • Joeycurl

                          Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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                          wait! what!? The inner tie rod is suppose to be on the front? why would the previous owner mount it the way he did? would moving it to the frontside change the angles enough to need a alignment after?
                           
                        • dadsbee

                          dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          YEP.. replicaracer caught that while we were all asleep ! Your center link is backwards, as are your inner tie rod ends. Why I posted the picture above. Center link, the "long" flat section should be on the pitman arm / drivers side and the short side on the idler arm. Then the tapered sockets will point the correct way for your tie rods to be on the front side where they belong. Definitely will need the toe in checked..
                          1969dartswingercleanupweek2 093.JPG 1969dartswingercleanupweek2 094.JPG
                           
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                          • Joeycurl

                            Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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                            you got an clearer pictures to post or send to me?

                            Also, the torsion bar is what's banging against the exhaust not the steering linkages. (primary concern) but now correcting all the links before or while addressing the torsion bar interference is bugging me.
                             
                          • dadsbee

                            dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            Not sure what you need that is clearer. Just showing you that the "flat" area of the center link is longer on the drivers side. Look at the pictures and see that the drivers side stays fairly level for about twice the distance as the passenger side from the nuts inwards. That is the correct orientation of the center link/drag link as some call it. As for the exhaust, if it is hitting the torsion bar then I offered how to fix that in my first reply. Buy a bare exhaust flange, 2 gaskets and two longer bolts.
                             
                          • RustyRatRod

                            RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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                            Who ran the exhaust? Take it back and make them do that head pipe over.
                             
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