Help solve Exhaust/Suspension Interference

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. TF360

    TF360 Well-Known Member

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    Yes Rusty
     
  2. Joeycurl

    Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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    So I started working on flipping the tie rods towards the front. Correct me if I'm wrong but the middle connecting rod has to flip around also right?
     
  3. dadsbee

    dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    YES, your center link is in backwards. Long flat to the drivers side, short flat to the passengers. Tie rod studs inserted into the tapered sockets from the front...
    1969dartswingerweek6 081.JPG
     
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    • Joeycurl

      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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      Any tricks on removing the pitman arm? I'm hammering at hit from nut side and not really able to get leverage
       
    • dadsbee

      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Pickle fork or a puller. Puller better if you can get it in there, arms locked under the center link, puller screw on the pitman arm stud as tight as you can get it and then give the center link a wack..
       
    • Joeycurl

      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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      Thank you. I'm down to the passenger side pitman arm now. I'll try the puller

      It's there suppose to be some play in the pitman arm anchor where it attached to the frame?
       
    • dadsbee

      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      No the inner parts should be firmly retained between the mounting tabs and then the forged arm rotates on the inner. The inner should not move or rock.
       
    • Joeycurl

      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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      Thank you again. Looks like I need a new bushing then. Know where to source?

      Got everything off now and ready to assemble after replacing the bushing
       
    • dadsbee

      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      ..are you sure? Show us the issue. Considering your front end was put together backwards, chances are the idler arm wasn't installed correctly either. Many aftermarket ones need to be shimmed with washers so that you can get them tight...
      1969dartswingerweek6 007.JPG
       
    • Joeycurl

      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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      Here's the picture. It's the original arm. I took a video to show the play but can't post it. So screen shot a close up of the play. It's about 1/16 of vertical play. The play is between the inner diameter of the arm and outer diameter of the bushing.
      CF3C4713-5A0E-46F8-ABB9-6941709C7F7B.jpeg C1E39646-84C9-41D6-921B-9A3E1B8F608E.png 47D63968-29DB-4167-AB8E-E6FA44618C55.png
       
    • dadsbee

      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      That's not on original OE arm. WHAT is moving vertically?..the entire assembly between the mounting ears, or the outer casting moving on the inner portion? If the entire unit, IE the inner portion moves between the ears then shim if necessary if tightening the bolt up won't cure it. If the inner is staying tight/still and the outer is rocking... it's worn out and needs replacing.
       
    • Joeycurl

      Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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      It's the outer casting moving on the inner portion. So which needs to be replaced? The whole pitman arm? Or whatever is in the inner portion between the ears?
       
    • dadsbee

      dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      • Joeycurl

        Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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        BIG Thank You! For all the help

        One last question.... What's the torque specs for tightening everything back up?
         
      • dadsbee

        dadsbee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        All in the FSM... and I can't remember what I did before lunch, nor am I going back out to the shop tonight to look them up.
         
      • Joeycurl

        Joeycurl Well-Known Member

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        I’m done! Thanks everyone. Here’s the before and after pictures. Now just need to get something done on the exhaust and a alignment.

        Before
        7C1C8DFA-DFD1-4592-BF3A-C231CB0FF950.jpeg

        After
        BA465263-626C-41CE-AB37-DAADC6ACF904.jpeg
         
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