Help!!!! Trying to wire new electronic mopar ignition

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71scamp78

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Alright I know this a A body site but you guys are pretty knowledgeable. I got a 88 ram d100 and it has had a 383 put in it. Truck was a fuel injection truck and small block so I need to start fresh on wiring new mopar electronic ignition. I got the kit and can not get it to work for nothing. I still figure what wires to use to power ecu and coil using the ballast resistor. I know I need a switched 12v source and and 12v while cranking but I haven't had any luck..please help
 
You will need a wiring diagram.

We will need a lot more info to assist, like was the wiring gutted, is the stock ballast resister in place. does the 383 have a dist that is setup for electronic, What mods have you made to the electronics, what tests have you performed and where, ETC....

Is the original electronics and wiring still on the vehicle?

did a little digging on rock auto and ICU for your truck is the same as 72 Dart, so wiring should be similar
 
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Well my truck had the lean burn so no icu..all the stock wiring inside dash is there as well as under hood. The under hood wiring has been cut back a lot so I dont know what wires to use for my cranking 12v source..I have new orange ecu , new mopar distributor, new ballast all came in kit
 
I have no idea where to get a diagram for that but that IS what you need. First you said EFI, then you said "lean burn" which is it?

Some of the later model Mopar/ Jeeps used a starter relay with an extra terminal. That would provide your cranking 12V back to the ignition on start
 
67Dart273 said:
I have no idea where to get a diagram for that but that IS what you need. First you said EFI, then you said "lean burn" which is it?

Some of the later model Mopar/ Jeeps used a starter relay with an extra terminal. That would provide your cranking 12V back to the ignition on start
Click to expand...
It was efi and I have it all wired up correct per diagram with the electronic ignition that was easy and I have done it before. I just cant seem to find the 12v cranking source. I think that's all I need to do to get it to work. I'm stressed over it lol and scratching my head. From what I found online the blue wire coming out of bulkhead is what I need for the on and 12v source
 
This is what my wiring looks like from what I've seen..all the colors are right

Screenshot_20181102-211743_Google.jpg
 
You are going to have to provide something I can read LOL
 
When you say "cranking source" do you mean to feed the ignition during cranking, or to fire the starter? How about safety switches disconnected, IE neutral safety or clutch safety?:
 
This one shows "expected". Branch off same wire as VR feeds 12V to ballast resistor and on to coil. The starter relay is the newer style as I suspected. I thas a separate terminal to give you ignition power during cranking. That is the pink coming off and then down to the coil

http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...00c152/80/05/2c/6a/large/0900c15280052c6a.gif

"I bet" this is the style starter relay you have. Notice the added terminal marked "ballast/ fuel pump". That is what feeds 12V to the ignition during cranking, the pink wire

182185d1363835714t-1988-comanche-issue-starter-relay-diagram.jpg
 
The starter cranking signal which fires the start relay is yellow "just like it always was" LOL. If that is not working check your neutral safety

Have you got any of the old EFI/ TBI stuff still?
 
67Dart273 said:
The starter cranking signal which fires the start relay is yellow "just like it always was" LOL. If that is not working check your neutral safety

Have you got any of the old EFI/ TBI stuff still?
Click to expand...
Well I tried using the yellow wire as my cranking source and my truck wanted to try starting when I touched the wire to one side of the ballast..one side of ballast is suppose to have a 12v source when ignition is in the on position and the other side is suppose to be the 12v cranking source correct
 
You are not listening

THE YELLOW DOES NOT HOOK TO THE BALLAST. The yellow goes to fire the starter relay.

The coil resistor bypass COMES FROM the extra contact on the starter relay. Please re-read what I posted carefully

"Let's step back" to the older traditional girls like on here. In those cars, the starter relay did NOT HAVE the extra bypass contact. In the A bodies, the coil bypass came right from the ignition switch. There is a SEPARATE contact in the switch (IGN2) that is SEPARATE from the "start" contact. IGN2 is what provides starting ignition power. YOU CAN NOT USE the yellow for that directly

I am guessing your truck does NOT have the separate switch contact otherwise they would not be using that newer starter relay. In fact it is shown in the diagrams I posted

You should already have the odd starter relay I showed earlier.
 
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