Help with a 426 Hemi installation in a 73 Dart

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The engine bay should be same dimensions as a 68 A-Body so research how the 68 SS Hemi cars were made. You won’t be able to run power brakes because the valve covers will interfere with the booster . And I think it will require 2sp wiper motor. Big torsion bars will be necessary.
I’m sorry… I meant a 3 speed wiper motor .
 
Is it just me or I´m too old now. But isn´t there only one way to put this engine, any engine, in this engine compartment, when it comes to sideways. And that is per Chrysler recommendations, and it is offset some 1.2 inch.
Anything else reminds me of the guy at the car show, who arranged the spark plug wires to look neat on his engine, not in firing order...
Ofcourse one can use different solutions to achieve this.
But again, I think by not lowering the k-member, and maybe raise it up some in the front, it will clear the inner fender...
And if needed, note there is kind of two steps to massage the inner fender. Just the sheet metal or like Hurst did it, also the shock tower bracing, witch really calls for a little more than just massage.
 
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So it needs the rack in order to clear everything ?

Tommy

by everything....I'm guessing you mean the power steering and A/C too? I would say it sure makes it easier.

Don't get me wrong, I luv those OEM style mounts too, but I have found with the overall size of the Hemi, I just don't like having to work around the torsion bars , steering box, drag link and steering arm / pitman arm.
 
by everything....I'm guessing you mean the power steering and A/C too? I would say it sure makes it easier.

Don't get me wrong, I luv those OEM style mounts too, but I have found with the overall size of the Hemi, I just don't like having to work around the torsion bars , steering box, drag link and steering arm / pitman arm.

I only have power steering
There is no AC

If I have to I could convert it to a rack system

I just need the valve covers to clear everything and the exhaust to clear as well

Tommy
 
I only have power steering
There is no AC

If I have to I could convert it to a rack system

I just need the valve covers to clear everything and the exhaust to clear as well

Tommy

whatever route you go, be advised, the Stage V heads require the cast valve covers which are physically larger and will require additional clearance for the shock tower and master cylinder.

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HDK has the drivers side engine mount for the Keith Black / FHO block with the odd mount pad bolt pattern.

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whatever route you go, be advised, the Stage V heads require the cast valve covers which are physically larger and will require additional clearance for the shock tower and master cylinder.

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No,, sorry .

Mine is all Mopar original iron ,,block and heads and all .
I’m planning on using an aluminum water pump and housing,,it will drop a few pounds.
Lol .

Denny ,
Were you able to do a body drop with this setup , or did you install from above ?
I’ll probably use a different K member and already have it ready to go in as an assembly if possible .

I have a set of Enderle port injectors, ( mechanical) ,, a 2x4 tunnel Ram unit , and a factory 2x4 manifold which I’m planning on using , but nothing is set in stone yet .

Tommy
 
No,, sorry .

Mine is all Mopar original iron ,,block and heads and all .
I’m planning on using an aluminum water pump and housing,,it will drop a few pounds.
Lol .

Denny ,
Were you able to do a body drop with this setup , or did you install from above ?
I’ll probably use a different K member and already have it ready to go in as an assembly if possible .

I have a set of Enderle port injectors, ( mechanical) ,, a 2x4 tunnel Ram unit , and a factory 2x4 manifold which I’m planning on using , but nothing is set in stone yet .

Tommy

I never install from the top, IMO, it is way easier and most everything can be bolted in place when simply dropping the body over it. I do find it mandatory to remove the valve covers for clearance by the brake distribution block. Do not even need to take the hood off. This one is off only because with the velocity stacks sticking thru the hood, it needed the holes cut in it.
 
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No,, sorry .

Mine is all Mopar original iron ,,block and heads and all .
I’m planning on using an aluminum water pump and housing,,it will drop a few pounds.
Lol .

Denny ,
Were you able to do a body drop with this setup , or did you install from above ?
I’ll probably use a different K member and already have it ready to go in as an assembly if possible .

I have a set of Enderle port injectors, ( mechanical) ,, a 2x4 tunnel Ram unit , and a factory 2x4 manifold which I’m planning on using , but nothing is set in stone yet .

Tommy
OEM K-frame and steering on this one. Still comes in from the bottom. degree of difficulty to install is no different once it is sorted out. Only place things get close is the one header tube with the pitman arm when the steering wheel is straight and the passenger side valve cover where I enlarged it to accommodate the large valve springs.

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OEM K-frame and steering on this one. Still comes in from the bottom. degree of difficulty to install is no different once it is sorted out. Only place things get close is the one header tube with the pitman arm when the steering wheel is straight and the passenger side valve cover where I enlarged it to accommodate the large valve springs.

View attachment 1716569195

That’s good to know
I will use stock diameter valve springs

I have a set of headers already but they are for a B / E body so I’m assuming they are not suitable for this application ?
However
As always with Mopar
Never assume anything !

Would exhaust manifolds offer any more clearance for me ?

Tommy
 
The headers I use with my HDK are B/E body application
 
The new brake offset is the nuts.

I did have to reclock an A/C port and one of the heater tubes. Hey, it's a Mopar, nothing works as it should out of the box.

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Okay ,

So I will need to move a heater hose nipple to clear my valve cover on right side ?

And I will need to move my M/C over to the left to clear that valve cover ?

Tommy
 
The master....yes
Heater box ripples depends on year / make and model , OEM of aftermarket. Most OEM does not.
 
Yes , my heater core is OEM .

I really appreciate your help .
I might find that I will better off just using a big block instead of the Hemi .
But I want to find information from the ones that know first hand .

Tommy
 
Yes , my heater core is OEM .

I really appreciate your help .
I might find that I will better off just using a big block instead of the Hemi .
But I want to find information from the ones that know first hand .

Tommy
with a wedge it is definitely easier....and no where the expense.
 
Well ,

After reading all the posts and doing some thinking , I believe I will forego this installation in this chassis .
It’s too good of a car to be doing that much modification to the engine compartment .
And besides,,,it’s a 73 beak car,,,,it would kind of be out of place in my opinion .

I appreciate all the advice and Denny really has a super nice suspension setup to make this work .
But I think I will stick with a big block and still be just as happy .
The Hemi will still be around for something else if need be .

Thanks for everything you guys,,I appreciate it !

Tommy
 
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