Help with convertible lift system

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coffeedart67

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Just sent my switch in for a second rebuild(5 years since first rebuild).this is his response "What I want you to see it the amount of arcing occurring. This switch is really getting hot while in operation. I would inspect the wiring terminals on the switch and motor side. I believe there is something causing a restriction of the DC current.". What do I check? Is there some tests I can do to the motor? When going up or down it does kind of stop for a split second. I do have a relay kit coming.
Thanks
Aaron
 
Check every connection for opened female connectors. It could also be the motor. I would install a set of relays to do away with the high current running through the switch. I installed the complete wiring and relays from a LeBaron convertible in my son's Dart and will do the same in my Barracuda. I will also probably do that in my GTS as it is good insurance for the switch.
 
coffeedart67 said:
? When going up or down it does kind of stop for a split second
Click to expand...
If it were me. I'd disconect the cylenders and manually raise and lower the top to see if the momentary pause is a linkage issue.
You can also put an amp meter in the pump wires and see what it is pulling
 
Does the motor run continuous with the cylinders removed... be careful I don't know how the cylinders would react without a load especially at their limits.
 
coffeedart67 said:
Just sent my switch in for a second rebuild(5 years since first rebuild).this is his response "What I want you to see it the amount of arcing occurring. This switch is really getting hot while in operation. I would inspect the wiring terminals on the switch and motor side. I believe there is something causing a restriction of the DC current.". What do I check? Is there some tests I can do to the motor? When going up or down it does kind of stop for a split second. I do have a relay kit coming.
Thanks
Aaron
Click to expand...

Get your switch rebuilt again, check all the items mentioned above and then buy and install Crackedback's top relay harness and you will never have to touch it again.

His relay harness does the heavy amp load lifting, while the switch only handles the trigger voltage to the relays.

He's the same guy that build the headlight harnesses, and a quick search on here will easily allow you to resolve this issue. He puts together very nice quality harnesses.
 
Last edited:
jbc426 said:
install Crackedback's top relay harness
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IMHO. The relay kit is putting a band-aid on a problem.

Assuming the factory did good engineering, thousands of 60s convertibles without a switch issue. there must be a current draw somewhere. Maybe it is high resistance in connectors, loose connectors etc, maybe it's the pump motor, maybe the rebuilt switch was not rebuilt well, maybe it is a replacement wiring harness with wires that are not the correct gauge. (I use to source wiring from china and when measuring strand dia and counting the strands they all came in 1 gauge lower than requested, IE 18 gauge measured closer to 19)


THAT BEING SAID...

I think a relay kit would be a great idea, but after the root cause is sorted out.

Again just MHO
 
The switch is being rebuilt now. Just got the relay kit yesterday. Going to check everything, and take motor to get checked. Looks like factory wiring.
 
Dana67Dart said:
IMHO. The relay kit is putting a band-aid on a problem.

Assuming the factory did good engineering, thousands of 60s convertibles without a switch issue. there must be a current draw somewhere. Maybe it is high resistance in connectors, loose connectors etc, maybe it's the pump motor, maybe the rebuilt switch was not rebuilt well, maybe it is a replacement wiring harness with wires that are not the correct gauge. (I use to source wiring from china and when measuring strand dia and counting the strands they all came in 1 gauge lower than requested, IE 18 gauge measured closer to 19)


THAT BEING SAID...

I think a relay kit would be a great idea, but after the root cause is sorted out.

Again just MHO
Click to expand...


Good points, but I bandaided my headlights too. I just don't like the idea of all that amperage coursing through my switches and bulkhead connectors. They are much brighter as a result. I also run a pair of 40 amp relays on my fuel pumps to keep the higher amp draw out of my oil pressure and two control switches.

Relays are a good idea in a lot of cases, and you make a good point. Be sure ALL your wiring components are in good shape too.
 
coffeedart67 said:
Just sent my switch in for a second rebuild(5 years since first rebuild).this is his response "What I want you to see it the amount of arcing occurring. This switch is really getting hot while in operation. I would inspect the wiring terminals on the switch and motor side. I believe there is something causing a restriction of the DC current.". What do I check? Is there some tests I can do to the motor? When going up or down it does kind of stop for a split second. I do have a relay kit coming.
Thanks
Aaron
Click to expand...
Mine ended up being the motor was drawing too many amps and caused the switch to overheat. (I did have to reground everything also which helped a little bit, but the main culprit was (for me) the motor.) after a salvage yard motor out of a 97 mustang was used amp draw went down upon stating the motor to raise the top it started @ 15amps and quickly underload went to 30 amps, man that made my fuse in the harness get warm and trip. The new "ish" motor drew 6 amps and went to 14 full load @ latch position well under the 30 amps in the resettable fuse in the harness . I still have not wired in the relays since I want to finish up all my wiring before the new top and interior goes on.
 
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