Help with these bleeder screws

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Markzilla88

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So I’m getting ready to pull my demon out of the garage, but wanted to bleed the brakes first as it’s a new car to me and I haven’t gotten my hands on them yet. I got the rear just to eye them up and this is what I found on both sides. I feel as though there should be a screw there, not nubs. Any input on what these might be? Car had a previous life as a strip car. Thanks
 
View attachment 1715502651 View attachment 1715502652 So I’m getting ready to pull my demon out of the garage, but wanted to bleed the brakes first as it’s a new car to me and I haven’t gotten my hands on them yet. I got the rear just to eye them up and this is what I found on both sides. I feel as though there should be a screw there, not nubs. Any input on what these might be? Car had a previous life as a strip car. Thanks
Don't wast time, buy new wheel cylinders and be done!!!
 
Is there hex on the end of those? You just screw them and put regular bleed screws. But I'm with justme cylinders are cheap just repace them
 
So I’m getting ready to pull my demon out of the garage, but wanted to bleed the brakes first as it’s a new car to me and I haven’t gotten my hands on them yet. I got the rear just to eye them up and this is what I found on both sides. I feel as though there should be a screw there, not nubs. Any input on what these might be? Car had a previous life as a strip car. Thanks

Hello Markzilla88,
Hard to tell from the photos and or all the accumulation of stuff covering it.
Yes there should be traditional type bleeders installed.
Could be there were rounded off wile someone was attempting to work on them at some point, Or they were removed and a plug (Hex) of some kind was installed.
Any way agreeing with Justme it probably would take more time and effort to try to remove them and install correct bleeders, If you even can seeing that there is so much corrosion / crud on them.
As stated it would be in the best interest to replace the cylinders and check the rest of the brakes wile you have the drums off.
Hope this helps,
Stay Safe
happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
Yeah I think that’s what I’ll end up doing there. I appreciate the input from you guys! I was hoping it would be a real quick simple solution as the previous owner said they were good... but yeah from the looks of them, I’d venture to say the guts of the brakes are in bad repair as well.. oh well, another project on the list lol thanks again!
 
Please post what you find after you get it out and changed. It is a first for me.

My gut says the bleeder is rusted in and someone put too much force on it and sheered off the hex upper part.
 
Don't wast time, buy new wheel cylinders and be done!!!
looks like the bleeder screws were snapped off should soak those wheel cylinder bolts before any work !
 
Yeah I think that’s what I’ll end up doing there. I appreciate the input from you guys! I was hoping it would be a real quick simple solution as the previous owner said they were good... but yeah from the looks of them, I’d venture to say the guts of the brakes are in bad repair as well.. oh well, another project on the list lol thanks again!
looks like the brake line is fine,cylinders are going to be faster than those bleeders !!!
when it comes to brakes:steering: I dont play when in doubt do it ...
 
I absolutely will! That was one thing he was proud of was that he bought the prebent lines and spent time "doing them right" lol but he clearly didn't take that much time doing them right... Right away when I saw the first nub I thought man they're sheered off, but then I saw the other side and it was the EXACT same. Like I mentioned it has a previous life as a drag racing car and I have no experience with laying a car out for the strip so I thought because they were identical that maybe it was something for racing?
Either way, I wont be doing them right away as there's no room in the garage to do it (it barely fits in there but it keeps it out of the cold and weather over the winter), but dont worry, Ill be back in a few weeks to revive a dead thread to show some pics. Thanks again!
 
OK, here is my $0.02. From what I see in the picture, I can only imagine what the rest of the braking system might look like. The wheel cylinders may be shot inside and ready to blow out. The brake hoses could be collapsed on the inside and unsafe. The steel brake lines could be badly rusted on the inside and ready to blow out with a pinhole (or bigger) leak. The inside of the master cylinder could be shot and ready to blow out also. My point is that even if you pulled the drums and things looked more or less OK, There could be a lot of damage you can't see. From that picture, I think I'd do a COMPLETE brake job.
 
OK, here is my $0.02. From what I see in the picture, I can only imagine what the rest of the braking system might look like. The wheel cylinders may be shot inside and ready to blow out. The brake hoses could be collapsed on the inside and unsafe. The steel brake lines could be badly rusted on the inside and ready to blow out with a pinhole (or bigger) leak. The inside of the master cylinder could be shot and ready to blow out also. My point is that even if you pulled the drums and things looked more or less OK, There could be a lot of damage you can't see. From that picture, I think I'd do a COMPLETE brake job.
The metal line going to cylinder looks pretty new and the OP said the previous owner replaced the line. I would inspect everything just to be sure.
 
If you ware replacing the wheel cylinders anyway, pick up a set of speed bleeders for them at the same time. You just have to crack them and push the pedal a bunch of times to bleed them, no need to open and close the bleeder while someone else pushed the pedal. Makes it a nice wasy 1 man job.
 
They also make a longer bleeder, makes it nice to be able to keep the wrench and a hose on it at the same time.
 
I would think twice about replacing those if they are original Chrysler cylinders. As long as the bores look pretty good, I would hone then and put a kit in them. The metal is much better than the total chinkesium junk you're going to find today. This is brakes we're talkin about here. You're gonna be ridin you and your loved ones around in this.

Now, on the bleeders. Soak them DOWN with Sea Foam Deep Creep. Don't be a cheap *** and use somethin layin around. Go get the real stuff. It's the best you can buy. Let them sit and repeatedly over a day or so. Next, get you a left handed drill bit set. O'Reilly stocks them, they aren't real expensive. Start with the smallest one and drill it bigger and bigger until you are right at the threads. Then you can use a small screwdriver or pick and pick the rest out. Sometimes, it will back right out after a drill or two right by itself.

Of course if you inspect the bores and they all pitted to heck and back, all bets are off and new cylinders are required.

All of this is my opinion and subject to my disclaimer.

RustyRatRod 2020
 
Another question is how did the previous owner bleed the brakes when he replaced the lines? Did he just crack the tubing nut a little and let the fluid dribble out?
 
No clue how he did it. I have tons of unanswered questions about the car but I’m working through it step by step
I replaced the wheel cylinders and all the springs and shoes and the brakes feel SO much better now! Thanks for all the help everyone
 
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