Here's what Energy Suspension says about their dust boots

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Righty Tighty

Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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I'm replacing the dust boots on my torsion bars with the Energy Suspension 5.13101R boots. As many of you probably already know, they are STIFF and the hole is small. (see what I did there...?) Anyway, many people recommend boiling in water or using a heat gun, sliding them on progressively larger sockets until you're at the right size, them sliding them onto the torsion bar. Sounds easy enough.

I tried with the first boot and ended up tearing it...I think I went too fast and didn't boil long enough. Second boot, I boiled for 10 minutes and slid onto a lubed socket. Worked okay, but also ended up tearing. The kit does not include any tips or instructions for dummies like me, so I reached out to ES for their .02

I got a hold of Tyler, and this is what he had to say. (paraphrasing here) “We definitely don’t recommend doing anything like boiling them or using a heat gun. The reason the kits don’t include instructions is because it’s pretty self explanatory as to how they go on (basically called me stupid). I’ve never heard of anyone having any issues installing them. You should just be able to slide them right on” Also, he added that they are not supposed to form a seal, and that they’re purely for cosmetic purposes only. He noted that if I wanted a dust boot to seal and keep the elements out, that I should go with OEM.

WHAT??!!

C39737D2-11CC-4791-9B3F-C324A0A9F1B6.jpeg
 
I gave him the p/n, but I suspect he may have been thinking of boots for a late model truck? Who knows.
 
When I put mine on using the heat gun I didn't use any sockets.I just heated them up real good (not cooked) with a little grease on the bar and pushed them on.Still tough to get them on there but that's what worked for me.
 
Good to know. At least he was honest about one thing- use OEM and not their product. I hope "Tyler"'s boss reads this...
 
I have them, they form a better seal than the stock ones do so I don’t know what he’s talking about.

I have them on my 1.12” torsion bars, and they work fine. I use a bunch of grease on the hex end, as well as down the length of the bar (although that probably isn’t as necessary with a smaller diameter bar). Then I boil them for a few minutes. Polyurethane can withstand a heck of a lot more than 212*, so again I have no idea what that guy is thinking. Then I push them on. Sometimes a large pickle fork can help, it’s easier to keep things moving. But a little heat and a lot of grease is the way to do it.
 
I wouldda told Energy Suspension to cram it up their butt.
 
Professor Fate said:
Good to know. At least he was honest about one thing- use OEM and not their product. I hope "Tyler"'s boss reads this...
Click to expand...

RustyRatRod said:
I wouldda told Energy Suspension to cram it up their butt.
Click to expand...

Like everything it’s about the right process. It’s not easy, but the OE ones aren’t better for larger diameter bars. Even if you do get them on without tearing they end up splitting at the seam after a couple years with the larger bars. At least all of mine have. OE is fine for OE parts.
 
dicksmidlac said:
When I put mine on using the heat gun I didn't use any sockets.I just heated them up real good (not cooked) with a little grease on the bar and pushed them on.Still tough to get them on there but that's what worked for me.
Click to expand...

Well, I wish I took your advice from the other thread and tried the heat gun before boiling.
 
72bluNblu said:
I have them, they form a better seal than the stock ones do so I don’t know what he’s talking about.

I have them on my 1.12” torsion bars, and they work fine. I use a bunch of grease on the hex end, as well as down the length of the bar (although that probably isn’t as necessary with a smaller diameter bar). Then I boil them for a few minutes. Polyurethane can withstand a heck of a lot more than 212*, so again I have no idea what that guy is thinking. Then I push them on. Sometimes a large pickle fork can help, it’s easier to keep things moving. But a little heat and a lot of grease is the way to do it.
Click to expand...
I wasn't saying it's a bad product, just that the guy was being a jag and not trying to help a paying customer to use their product. He just kicks the can down the road and tells you to use something else. Not good.
 
Professor Fate said:
Good to know. At least he was honest about one thing- use OEM and not their product. I hope "Tyler"'s boss reads this...
Click to expand...

Professor Fate said:
I wasn't saying it's a bad product, just that the guy was being a jag and not trying to help a paying customer to use their product. He just kicks the can down the road and tells you to use something else. Not good.
Click to expand...

That's what I got from your reply, and that was the feeling I had when I got off the phone. He was friendly enough, just didn’t seem to know what he was talking about.

I already have another set coming, and I don’t think I could get the OEM style ones any sooner, so I’ll give them another shot.
 
Poly splits real easy. Any imperfection in the mold will start the tear. Like the foil bag of chips, as soon as the slit starts down the side its game over. Heat guns are handy but be careful, you can melt a localized area. Are your bars out of the car?
 
Righty Tighty said:
Well, I wish I took your advice from the other thread and tried the heat gun before boiling.
Click to expand...

I don’t use a heat gun on mine because it’s harder to control the temperature of the boots. They really don’t need to be that hot, just warm enough to be pliable. On a hot day even setting them in the sun for a couple hours should work. Making them super hot doesn’t continue to increase the pliability.

Professor Fate said:
I wasn't saying it's a bad product, just that the guy was being a jag and not trying to help a paying customer to use their product. He just kicks the can down the road and tells you to use something else. Not good.
Click to expand...

I agree with that, I think I misread your intent.

Sounds like the guy is like most of the “techs” these days and hasn’t actually installed a set of these things.
 
From what I remember, they were like $6 compared to like $40 for OEM style. I cheaped out. Then my wife bought 2 pairs by mistake so I could make a mistake or 2. I put them on the dash of my truck with the windows up, it got to almost 190 inside. First boot ripped.
I put #2 in a pan of water on my BBQ grill. Got them nice and hot and they went right on.
I like the look of this style boot too.
I got them for my next rebuild. I plan on taking them to work and putting them in our welding rod oven to heat them up.
BTW... My Dakota doesn't have boots, apparently Chrysler figures they are obsolete.
 
dano said:
Poly splits real easy. Any imperfection in the mold will start the tear. Like the foil bag of chips, as soon as the slit starts down the side its game over. Heat guns are handy but be careful, you can melt a localized area. Are your bars out of the car?
Click to expand...

Basically, yes. They are just slid in from the rear with the front hex end still exposed. I read somewhere that a guy had them completely out and basically speared the bar into the boot, but I’d have to drop the control arm (again), and I’m wanting to avoid that.
 
I put mine on many years ago so I cant remember how I heated them or even if I did. I do remember using dielectric grease to get them to slide and it worked great. Also, the spring type hose clamps that mopar used are a perfect fit to hold the boot to keep it from popping off the crossmember. Without the clamp they would not stay seated. Not sure what they are talking about, these things are sealed air tight. Sure, the back end is still open anyways.
My bars are mopar performance, just under 1"

20200422_172857.jpg
 
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Dfr360cuda said:
From what I remember, they were like $6 compared to like $40 for OEM style. I cheaped out. Then my wife bought 2 pairs by mistake so I could make a mistake or 2. I put them on the dash of my truck with the windows up, it got to almost 190 inside. First boot ripped.
I put #2 in a pan of water on my BBQ grill. Got them nice and hot and they went right on.
I like the look of this style boot too.
I got them for my next rebuild. I plan on taking them to work and putting them in our welding rod oven to heat them up.
BTW... My Dakota doesn't have boots, apparently Chrysler figures they are obsolete.
Click to expand...
...................................................

Here's the brand I used.
Pretty good

image.jpeg
 
Just an update --

Before I called Energy Suspension the other day, I sent an email to tech support. I received a reply yesterday from James. He reiterated Energy Suspension's position against heating the boots to aid installation. Instead, he recommended using silicone spray and a lot of elbow grease. Just to humor him, I'm gonna give it a try.

I asked about the boots being "cosmetic" and not forming a seal, and he said the other tech was likely misinformed and that they are most certainly supposed to form a seal. He touted ES's quality and said their boots are as good - if not better than - OEM boots. A few minutes later, I received a reply to the conversation with Tyler now involved. Tyler apologized for giving wrong info, and I commended both of them for the follow through and resolution. They certainly turned it around on the customer service angle.
 
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Got em on. I tried what the rep said by using no heat, and a lot of lube/elbow grease. NO WAY IN HELL. The hex head actually began to cut into the inside of the boot.

Back to the boiling method and progressively sized sockets. Went up to 1-16” on the first one, went on with ease. Tried the second one on a 1” socket. Still very easy. Now I’ll
 
Righty Tighty said:
Just an update --

Before I called Energy Suspension the other day, I sent an email to tech support. I received a reply yesterday from James. He reiterated Energy Suspension's position against heating the boots to aid installation. Instead, he recommended using silicone spray and a lot of elbow grease. Just to humor him, I'm gonna give it a try.

I asked about the boots being "cosmetic" and not forming a seal, and he said the other tech was likely misinformed and that they are most certainly supposed to form a seal. He touted ES's quality and said their boots are as good - if not better than - OEM boots. A few minutes later, I received a reply to the conversation with Tyler now involved. Tyler apologized for giving wrong info, and I commended both of them for the follow through and resolution. They certainly turned it around on the customer service angle.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the "other tech" used to sell air fresheners for Honda and the term "tech" must mean employee.
 
I recently installed these with 1.00 bars, although the diameter of the bar doesn't matter for initial installation over the hex. (The hex size is standard.) I had previously read concerns about them being hard to install. On my first attempt, I tried with no heating and only whatever residual grease might have been on the hex from installing the bar through the rear anchor. I put a flat metal plate at the LCA anchor and simply tried pushing the bar through the boot, using the plate as a support. I was unable to do so. I then used an electrical space heater to heat the boot up. I don't think it even got to 200F. With the boot heated, I was able to push the torsion bar through without any tearing. It still took quite a bit of effort. If it matters, I have Firm Feel bars.
 
I bought P-S-T's 1.03" tbars and there premium seals.
I couldn't get them on no matter what I tried.
A friend and his Big wife came by to see car.
I told them the problem I was having, she said let me try.
The seal was put on shop floor large side up, tbar hex was put into place.
She then took a board I had around and put board against her chest and put her weight on it and the damn thing went right on !!
Did the second one also!

True story!
 
cudamike13 said:
I bought P-S-T's 1.03" tbars and there premium seals.
I couldn't get them on no matter what I tried.
A friend and his Big wife came by to see car.
I told them the problem I was having, she said let me try.
The seal was put on shop floor large side up, tbar hex was put into place.
She then took a board I had around and put board against her chest and put her weight on it and the damn thing went right on !!
Did the second one also!

True story!
Click to expand...
That should be in the instructions
 
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