Hey Del, Look what I found!!! An original Miller Gauge tester!!!

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krazykuda

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I find it interesting how the knob is labeled
E - 1/2 - F

but the instructions from the back say
L - M - H :scratch:
 
That's pretty cool Karl.
 
Man don't TEASE me like this!!!

Tell you what tho, you could do me (and some of the rest) a HUGE favor with that........

If you'd be willing to pull the cover off and see what's in there for resistors, as well as get a good accurate reading on them, if you have a good multimeter........
 
That's pretty cool Karl.

I bought three of them back in the early 90's. this is the only one that I can find now, but it is one that was never used. I thought that I would never find any of them after the move. It's still brand new. I'm holding on to this one like grim death... You gotta pry it out of my cold dead hands... :rambo:

When I tried to buy another one from Miller Tool many years ago, they were long cancelled... :banghead:


But if it would help Del make copies, we could use this as a reference if he can make them. I know many others would like to have one, it would be cool if we could "clone" it... :glasses7:
 
I would guess "LO" "MEDIUM" and "HI"?
 
Man don't TEASE me like this!!!

Tell you what tho, you could do me (and some of the rest) a HUGE favor with that........

If you'd be willing to pull the cover off and see what's in there for resistors, as well as get a good accurate reading on them, if you have a good multimeter........


Dude, I knew you'd be as excited about this as me... :blob:


Ok, but you will have to walk me through and tell me what settings to put my meter on and where to put the probes...

And if I break this one (it's brand new never used...), you have to promise I get your second prototype or first production model, whichever comes first. (basically you're second one)... :evil3:


Here's my multi gauge, 90's model, has served me well over the years:


Multi Gauge A0
 

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You will need a better meter. You have any friends with something like a Fluke?

The object is to "confirm" what we 'think' we know. We 'think' we have some idea of what the original Mopar tester had for values, "floating around the internet" but there's nothing like confirming the actual. It might even have marked resistances on the ones inside if they are precision, or at least common color striped resistors.

But to get that meter as accurate as possible, "hard short" the probes together firmly, with the switch in RX1. Adjust the zero set knob (ohm) for the far right "O" on the meter.
 
Here it is apart:


Close-ups of the resistors (you can see the color bands on them):

EXCELLENT!!!

And now for another old story from the old days.

I had my "ham" (amateur radio) license before I got out of high school in 66. They tried to draft me into the army in the fall of 67, but I fooled 'em and joined the Navy. So fall of '68 found me in electronics "A" school at Treasure Island (San Francisco)

One day, the instructor starts writing on the board. THEN he writes THIS and I started chuckling. He asked me "whut" and I said "Because now I will NEVER forget the color code." And, I HAVEN'T!!!

Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly

Black-Brown-Red-Orange-Yellow-Green-Blue-Violet-Grey-White
---0-----1------2-----3--------4-------5-----6------7------8----0---


resistor-color-chart.jpg


First one is Violet -- Green -- Black

So 75 ohms (black means no multiplier)

==========================

Second one is Red -- Red -- Black

So 22 ohms

===========================

Last one is ??

Can you read the colors??

I'm stumped The blue resistor doesn't make sense
 
You will need a better meter. You have any friends with something like a Fluke?

The object is to "confirm" what we 'think' we know. We 'think' we have some idea of what the original Mopar tester had for values, "floating around the internet" but there's nothing like confirming the actual. It might even have marked resistances on the ones inside if they are precision, or at least common color striped resistors.

But to get that meter as accurate as possible, "hard short" the probes together firmly, with the switch in RX1. Adjust the zero set knob (ohm) for the far right "O" on the meter.


Here's the Blue Point - UTI edition one that my son used when he went through UTI Tech..

I know nothing about this one, so if it is good enough, you will have to walk me though it.
 

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EXCELLENT!!!

Last one is ??

Can you read the colors??


Man, that's hard for me to tell also even with a magnifying glass.


I think it's

Brown - Dk blue - Dk grn

Did they use dark green or dark blue, or lighter for the green and blue stripes and this could possibly be two black stripes???

Brown - ? - ?
 
Let me see if I can find the destructions for your digi meter. There may be a special procedure for low resistance. (There is on my Fluke, but different)
 
Let me see if I can find the destructions for your digi meter. There may be a special procedure for low resistance. (There is on my Fluke, but different)

Ok, I'll go grab a quick snack. I don't want to blow this thing out before I get to use it...
 
Found a copy of the manual, but there might be a misprint. They are talking about setting the meter to "W" which makes no sense. You want it set to the "Ohms" (I can't do an "omega" symbol, I guess you know it's the "upside down U" just to left of top center on the rotary knob. Short the leads "hard" and press the "REL" button which is supposed to compensate for the meter leads resistance. Then take your reading

You want the probes in the two far right jacks on the meter

Here

Again, I think the reference to "W" is in error
 

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They may be using the "blue" resistor in parallel with the 22 ohm (red-red-bk)

If so, that would make the "blue" one somewhere around 18 ohms

17 ohms would be brown --violet-- black,

That would make the third band black. If we can figure out the first two bands


Someone had posted this

attachment.php


Showing the low resistance as 10
 
OK you want the probes in the two far right

The rotary switch in "ohms" which is the symbol one to left of 40uA

Range you are going to have to press the button a few times. You want lo range, but I have no idea "what it will say." "Meters are different"
 
They may be using the "blue" resistor in parallel with the 22 ohm (red-red-bk)

If so, that would make the "blue" one somewhere around 18 ohms

17 ohms would be brown --violet-- black,

That would make the third band black. If we can figure out the first two bands


Someone had posted this

attachment.php


Showing the low resistance as 10


That matches the back label on mine except for the values in yellow. That looks like an earlier version of it.

View attachment Miller c3826a A10 B2.jpg
 
I just tried it, and can't get a reading, just zero...
 
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