High CFM heads - What would you chose?

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mini

Small Bore Long Stroke
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So I've been thinking a lot about a theoretical goal in the future and what induction system I should look towards.. With price of heads, intake and rocker systems in mind, What would be a good path to follow for over 300+ CFM intake flow?
Looking towards a Victor setup which uses w5 parts. Just thought I'd start a discussion on this
 
So I've been thinking a lot about a theoretical goal in the future and what induction system I should look towards.. With price of heads, intake and rocker systems in mind, What would be a good path to follow for over 300+ CFM intake flow?
Looking towards a Victor setup which uses w5 parts. Just thought I'd start a discussion on this
Building a Drag engine?
 
The “easiest” path is likely going to be Indy heads, since they still use the std valve angles.
Indys on their website don't really boast big flow numbers without port work.
 
if you do go Indy, DONT Buy them from Indy!!!! you will regret it...…. I would think any head over 300 will require port work.
 
Just buy the cnc ported ones.

A set of 360-2 cnc230’s, the matching intake, and a set T&D rockers should be a great head start on making enough power where the integrity of the stock block might start to be a concern.

I can’t see any way it’s worth the $$$ “overall cost” to get into a Victor headed build unless you’re going to use an aftermarket block........ and you’re looking to make at least around 700hp.

If that’s what you’re looking for ....... make sure the check book is well stocked.

Don’t get me wrong...... those Victor heads can really make some power with the proper work done to them.

Just depends on how deep you want to get into it.

How I like to go about it is....... pick the power level you’re after.
Then the path/choices get clearer.
I don’t like building time bombs, so as an example....... if someone comes to me and says they want 800hp...... then the conversation starts with, “you need a block”.

If they’re looking for 600-ish out of a SB and want to use a stock block..... then we have the “as long as you understand it will likely have a finite lifespan” talk.
 
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Of course! What else ;-)
You see quite a few W2 small blocks but not W5's. Must be too big of a hassle to make them work. There was a Duster at the track a few years ago with a NASCAR Truck engine but he could never get it to work well.
 
If you do go with the Indy heads I would shy away from the cnc ported 245cc heads as I’ve heard of several leakers. Having the Indy heads (360-1) I would love to buy a set of Victor heads and see what I could get out of them. I’m sure they are better head castings than the Indy heads. Hopefully the new owner of Indy will build on customer relations.
 
Just buy the cnc ported ones.

A set of 360-2 cnc230’s, the matching intake, and a set T&D rockers should be a great head start on making enough power where the integrity of the stock block might start to be a concern.

I can’t see any way it’s worth the $$$ “overall cost” to get into a Victor headed build unless you’re going to use an aftermarket block........ and you’re looking to make at least around 700hp.

If that’s what you’re looking for ....... make sure the check book is well stocked.

Don’t get me wrong...... those Victor heads can really make some power with the proper work done to them.

Just depends on how deep you want to get into it.

How I like to go about it is....... pick the power level you’re after.
Then the path/choices get clearer.
I don’t like building time bombs, so as an example....... if someone comes to me and says they want 800hp...... then the conversation starts with, “you need a block”.

If they’re looking for 600-ish out of a SB and want to use a stock block..... then we have the “as long as you understand it will likely have a finite lifespan” talk.

Dwayne, what kind of power have you seen out of the Victors? I haven't seen many guys running them.
 
Me either...... but Brett made 1000hp with them......and that’s a pretty high water mark.

One of the engine contest builds last year was well over 700hp with them(stock Magnum block I believe), and that build had some limitations stipulated in the rules.

I think the lack of block availability has put a damper on a lot of potential SB and BB higher horsepower builds.
 
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I think Brett could make big power with a Briggs & Stratton, LOL, he's a talented guy.
 
Just buy the cnc ported ones.

A set of 360-2 cnc230’s, the matching intake, and a set T&D rockers should be a great head start on making enough power where the integrity of the stock block might start to be a concern.

I can’t see any way it’s worth the $$$ “overall cost” to get into a Victor headed build unless you’re going to use an aftermarket block........ and you’re looking to make at least around 700hp.

If that’s what you’re looking for ....... make sure the check book is well stocked.

Don’t get me wrong...... those Victor heads can really make some power with the proper work done to them.

Just depends on how deep you want to get into it.

How I like to go about it is....... pick the power level you’re after.
Then the path/choices get clearer.
I don’t like building time bombs, so as an example....... if someone comes to me and says they want 800hp...... then the conversation starts with, “you need a block”.

If they’re looking for 600-ish out of a SB and want to use a stock block..... then we have the “as long as you understand it will likely have a finite lifespan” talk.
At that point I should just call Hughes and have them Big Mouth my Edelbrock 60779s for around the same flow number.
 
At that point I should just call Hughes and have them Big Mouth my Edelbrock 60779s for around the same flow number.

Might wanna do a little digging on that and see if you can find someone other than Hughes that can confirm their numbers for that operation.

I know Jesse Robinson’s results were quite a bit less than what Hughes was showing.

I’ve had some Hughes ported heads on my bench...... some flowed pretty close to their numbers...... some didn’t.

Not that my bench is by any means the last word in accuracy....... but my numbers aren’t usually very far off from what is typically seen by other shops.
 
Might wanna do a little digging on that and see if you can where someone other than Hughes can confirm their numbers.
For sure. Numbers sell products.
It's the same with Shady Dells numbers from what I hear...
 
Also...... the flow numbers aren’t really the last word in how well the heads will work and what power they’re capable of.
Depending on the power level you’re seeking..... a set of Hughes BM heads might be plenty.
 
At that point I should just call Hughes and have them Big Mouth my Edelbrock 60779s for around the same flow number.


Don’t fall for flow numbers as the best way to select a head as PRH said. There isn’t a snowballs chance in hell the big mouth head will out horsepower a W2. Ever.

BTW, the issue with the W5 head is Chrysler left the intake port incredibly small (the exhaust port is on the edge of being too big), the chamber sucks and the moron who decided to cut the valve spring pockets so damn deep should be publically flogged and never allowed to design anything but toasters again.

With some work they make good power. If I ever had the chance to do another set, I’d weld up the spring pockets, replace the seats and guides, squeeze a 2.125 in there with a 1.500 exhaust valve and use a 55 degree valve job.

Then you have to fix the chamber. Luckily, you can do it without welding.
 
Might wanna do a little digging on that and see if you can find someone other than Hughes that can confirm their numbers for that operation.

I know Jesse Robinson’s results were quite a bit less than what Hughes was showing.

I’ve had some Hughes ported heads on my bench...... some flowed pretty close to their numbers...... some didn’t.

Not that my bench is by any means the last word in accuracy....... but my numbers aren’t usually very far off from what is typically seen by other shops.
Ihad my bigmouth flow tested and they were just about on the mark , tje flow more than i need with room for improvement should i get a bigger cam and want to set the rev limit a bit higher . with the right cam and intake I'm sure i could get close to 600 hp , i'm at 510-520 now my setup now drops off at 5300 rpm , i want it to peak at 6200-6500 rpm
 
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You see quite a few W2 small blocks but not W5's. Must be too big of a hassle to make them work. There was a Duster at the track a few years ago with a NASCAR Truck engine but he could never get it to work well.

Not really... there certainly not a head you just blindly slamm valves in and go run. Thats actually insane... I'll add to what YR says below...

Don’t fall for flow numbers as the best way to select a head as PRH said. There isn’t a snowballs chance in hell the big mouth head will out horsepower a W2. Ever.
Mostly because the had is to closely based on the OE lay out.You can only get so much out of it and thats it. (Any head really)
BTW, the issue with the W5 head is Chrysler left the intake port incredibly small (the exhaust port is on the edge of being too big), the chamber sucks and the moron who decided to cut the valve spring pockets so damn deep should be publically flogged and never allowed to design anything but toasters again.

The intake side ported out pretty good on mine but did give up the ghost a little bit early. Still, on bench Brett had the heads flowed on, 312 cfm on a 4.125 bore will make good power.


Then you have to fix the chamber. Luckily, you can do it without welding.
As cast, ummmm, YUCK? I think would apply. Could be worse though...
 
Would I do another set? IF the head is cheap to start with, yes.
IMO, there just not worth what they were new or worth much now since the latesest heads came out.
Flow Sheet - 4.125 bore (Will not be using that bore size)
Flow Sheet, local enghine builder, 4.03 bore
(MAN! I gotta get a better shot of that, sorry guys)
W5 Intake port shot
W5 Exhaust port shot.
On engine

88FA952B-6ED9-40FF-AF27-B98228ED0DEE.jpeg


58FF43D4-0AC5-4D4A-B9C4-B4C6B4A72BF0.jpeg


CC5A020B-0740-4250-ABCF-828CC4CED73E.jpeg


5BD5584B-DC96-44B2-A173-1217498A697F.jpeg


83082D2E-C555-4506-8633-4B3DAD969BEC.jpeg
 
Would I do another set? IF the head is cheap to start with, yes.
IMO, there just not worth what they were new or worth much now since the latesest heads came out.
Flow Sheet - 4.125 bore (Will not be using that bore size)
Flow Sheet, local enghine builder, 4.03 bore
(MAN! I gotta get a better shot of that, sorry guys)
W5 Intake port shot
W5 Exhaust port shot.
On engine

View attachment 1715558239

View attachment 1715558241

View attachment 1715558246

View attachment 1715558247

View attachment 1715558248

If you look at the pictures Rumble posted you can see how you need to raise the roof. I think it can go up at least .200 or a skosh more, but you can’t, because the SEWER sized valve spring pocket breaks through.

If you raised the roof and floor .200 and used the correct valve job with a 2.125 valve you might tickle 400 CFM. Maybe. It would be close.
 
If you look at the pictures Rumble posted you can see how you need to raise the roof. I think it can go up at least .200 or a skosh more, but you can’t, because the SEWER sized valve spring pocket breaks through.

If you raised the roof and floor .200 and used the correct valve job with a 2.125 valve you might tickle 400 CFM. Maybe. It would be close.
It totally looks like you could raise the roof a fuckload
 
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