Holley #3310 Booster Options

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Valman

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Has anyone out there ever experimented with annular boosters installed into a #3310 or similar Holley? If so were there any advantages or disadvantages, was it worth it etc…

Was contemplating a 780cfm conversion with the down leg boosters for more flow. Annular boosters maybe a better option at least in the primaries, similar to an Eddy AVS.
Cheers!
 
Call Mark and Lightning Racing Carbs in Florida and talk to him.

IMO he has the best annular boosters out there. And he’s a smart dude.
 
Call Mark and Lightning Racing Carbs in Florida and talk to him.

IMO he has the best annular boosters out there. And he’s a smart dude.
I've been experimenting with that type of setup for quite a while.
If you really want to go that route, Mark may be the best person to set that up for you.
Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, I would say 4 smaller annular boosters would be the way to go. Having large anulars in the primary and downlegs or such in the secondary has two downsides.
1. Trade off of stronger booster and smaller droplets for more resitricted airflow in the primaries.
2. At high flow, feeding the forward cylinders a different droplet size than the rear cylinders. The middle cylinders will have a mix of both.

It is my opinion that annular boosters need to have an intake with less heat than a standard booster. Whatever can be done to keep the hot oil from the intake runners, especially on a single plane, will help.

If you want to see my carb and some of the results, search for my screen name and 3310 and/or maybe frankencarb. Here's one
 
I've been experimenting with that type of setup for quite a while.
If you really want to go that route, Mark may be the best person to set that up for you.
Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, I would say 4 smaller annular boosters would be the way to go. Having large anulars in the primary and downlegs or such in the secondary has two downsides.
1. Trade off of stronger booster and smaller droplets for more resitricted airflow in the primaries.
2. At high flow, feeding the forward cylinders a different droplet size than the rear cylinders. The middle cylinders will have a mix of both.

It is my opinion that annular boosters need to have an intake with less heat than a standard booster. Whatever can be done to keep the hot oil from the intake runners, especially on a single plane, will help.

If you want to see my carb and some of the results, search for my screen name and 3310 and/or maybe frankencarb. Here's one
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X2 on the cold intake. You can get the fuel vaporized too soon and lose power.
 
It is my opinion that annular boosters need to have an intake with less heat than a standard booster. Whatever can be done to keep the hot oil from the intake runners, especially on a single plane, will help
The intake I’m using does get quite hot from the oil. It’s been ceramic coated, which doesn’t seem to help much. I’m probably better off with the down leg 780cfm conversion with the current intake. - non-air gap RPM intake.
 
The intake I’m using does get quite hot from the oil. It’s been ceramic coated, which doesn’t seem to help much. I’m probably better off with the down leg 780cfm conversion with the current intake. - non-air gap RPM intake.

And I didn’t see you are down under lol. I think you are on a better track with down legs if you don’t have a cold intake.
 
I'm currently using an LD340 with that carb. In fact, I think that's the only intake I've had it on. I don't see anything on the RPM that would make it better or worse in terms of heat. In fact I have one on the shelf that I want to try as I think the runners will better maintain velocity in the low and mid rpms. I think in terms of heat the dual plane should be slightly better than the single plane. I don't know how much difference it has made, but on the current engine there is an oil splash shield. On the previous engine I was using a Holley Street Dominator and no splash shield. Ran that with the 3310-3 as purchased out of the box. I did drill throttle plates and reduce the IABs. But the point is don't have a back to back comparison - just impressions and things that I think relate.
 
I think in terms of heat the dual plane should be slightly better than the single plane. I don't know how much difference it has made, but on the current engine there is an oil splash shield
On the dual plane, the side with the deeper plenum bears the brunt of the hot oil it seems. The runners are directly exposed to the oil. I probably should put a lifter valley baffle in there.

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And I didn’t see you are down under lol. I think you are on a better track with down legs if you don’t have a cold intake.
Yeah, we have to wait forever to get things sent here. Plus barely anything is made here anymore. The All State carbs kit looks pretty good.
 
Jerry said he had to do a bunch of fitting on this one. There's a couple places that offer them.
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I think it helps but don't know how much of it is a factor compared to the headers and engine compartment heat.

This is a factory cast iron intake. Not sure it ifs for exactly the same purpose as a valley pan, but seems like it also helps keep the oil off the intake. Some of the engine guys can better answer that.
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3310. IIRC the first over the counter 3310 still had spivies on the boosters specificly for the OEM application. -1 I'm not sure what its boosters had but If you need I can look up my notes. -2 is straight boosters primary and secondary side. Secondary power valve was dropped with the -2 but the throttle body will accomodate a metering block that has a PV. The vacuum passage may have to be drilled open.

There are some other list numbers that came with downleg boosters if thats something you want to look for.
 
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think it helps but don't know how much of it is a factor compared to the headers and engine compartment heat.
Milodon makes a baffle for a SBM, surely it would have to make some difference. The ceramic coating isn’t that great for reducing temps in my experience. Both on exhaust or intakes.
It’s a great coating, but once it’s heat soaked, it’s heat soaked. I ended up wrapping my headers as well as being coated.

The #3310 I have is an aftermarket one, bought it new around 2004-05. Essentially stock, I did put a secondary jet conversion plate in it though. The booster OD is 0.625’’, straight leg.
I found heat soak an issue with this carb, went back to a TQ. Tried all the usual insulation methods except for the valley baffle.

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I got a ph call this morning. I recently prepared a Ford TQ for a mud runner racer for a friend. Has a 383 Chev, runs on dirt, mainly exhibition I believe. He ran it for the first time this weekend at a track near Tamworth. This is a bloke with 40 years of car experience, been around the block more than once. He said the carb performed even better than expected & commented how good the secondaries worked. The secs works so well, much better than stock, because of the mods I did. These are listed with pics, in the fuel section of this website, in Oct 2023.
 
Yeah, I know, forget how to empty it.

The on'y way I know how to do it is click on a single conversation and then…hang on…now I forgot how to do it.

Edit: click on single conversation. At the top of the conversation there is a button that says “leave conversation”. Click on that and then the option comes up to keep getting conversations with the member or if you don’t ever want them to PM you again you click on that button.

Then click leave conversation.

Like I said, I don’t know how to get rid of more than one conversation at a time. I suspect there is a way if you wanted to clear a bunch of them out you can, I just don’t know how.
 

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