Holley 4150, Need rebuild help..

[Cope]

Hi guys.
I got my 650 DP all apart (almost) and need some help.
My floats are different from the above sticky and im not sure how to remove them and get to the main needle?

The two screws are out can I kust pull the assembly out?
I pulled.lightely and it dont wanna come out.

My carb did not have any check ball under the acell pump?
just these red rubber plugs.

Am i missing parts?


My main jets are 67 and primarys are 73.
dose this sound factory or even close to right?

My secondary meetering block has no power valve, is this normal?
(Ive always been a webber guy (ducking) and this is my firts holley.)

My secondary pump dischare nozzles are 28 dose sound about right?

Carb is going on a weiand action pluss + on a 318 untill my 360 is ready.

Thanks for the time and advice.

 

[Locomotion]

The needle & seat come out by backing of the slotted top screw and turning the nut underneath. That's also how you adjust the float level. I forgot which way to turn it to get it out. But remove the top screw and you can watch it.

By removing the 2 screws in the bracket, you should be able to remove the float assembly.

All of my Holley's have had the check ball. I just know some had that red rubber "check valve". (Cheaper to make, I guess.) I just never messed with it.

Your carb # is 4777-# - The higher the "#", the newer the carb. They sometimes made minor changes as time went on.

You should be able to find your specs here (included in the link below) But your jets and all appear to be OEM:
[ame]https://ac17cb7e3cc3506f0d23-7386afb7d61f5e5af0e5a817d2877bfe.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf[/ame]

You have the "good" brass floats. The black ones can sometimes absorb gas and get heavy while the plastic ones can eventually crack.


Here is some helpful info: https://www.holley.com/support/resources/

Good carb if you know how to tune. May be a bit much and hard to tune for a mild 318. Naturally better for 360.

I found a well tuned 650 DP to be about as fast in the 1/4 as a 750 vacuum and about a tenth slower than a tuned 750 DP, all on a race 360.

 

[Cope]

Thanks for the fast reply!
I did like you said and removed the needle assembly and got the floats out.

My carb is a 4777-4
just under that on the choke tower is 2018.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Locomotion]

2018 might be a date code, but I never remember how to decipher those.
Glad to help. Good luck.

 

[Cope]

Ok one more question..
Can someone school me on power valves?

I live and drive at high alt. (6,250')
my.rebuild kit has a 6.5 and a 10.5.
A 6.5 was in the carb but would I be better suited installing the 10.5 and inriching at a higher RPM, more vaccum?

Or am I simply not understanding how this valve functions?

Thanks again.

 

[crackedback]

I'd put the 6.5 PV in it to start.

Do you know what vacuum the engine pulls at idle and while driving.

The PV richens up the main circuit. When the engine drops below the rating, it opens. A 10.5 will get that enrichment started earlier than a 6.5.

 

[Cope]

Thanks, a buddy of mine said the same thing. Go with the 6.5 first.
I was thinking of vaccum backwards.

Carb in now built, Just waiting on my gasket from summit and the install will begin!

Edit- no idea about vaccum, gotta get my hands on a gauge.
that will be in the next box marked summit racing!

 

[SBeeMan]

You want to check the vacuum at idle with the car in gear if an auto trans. Let's say you get a reading of 10 on the vacuum,you want a powervalve that's half of the reading,so you'll need a 5. If the vacuum pulls the powervalve open sooner than it should if will be rich,or if it is open at idle you'll never be able to tune it right & will be very rich at idle.