Last edited:
Holley How To
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
-
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That's pretty darn good. I would add a couple of minor comments
On some carb models, be careful blowing out with air. Some carbs have tiny "freeze plugs" at the end of drilled passages, and you can blow them right out, sometimes
I like to blow through all passages after cleaning and air drying, using aerosol carb cleaner and the supplied "straw." I just want to make SURE that those passages are clean and clear
Be VERY careful to NOT OVER tighten the power valve. "Back then" I used to find a number of power valves NEW that leaked. Sometimes I put the old one back in to cure the problem, then had to go round up another new one. I used mostly Standard/ Bluestreak, or Holley kits, and still found a number of bad ones.
Minor point, you left the word "ball" out of the description of the secondary diaphragm. Should have read:
"I like to leave the secondary diaphragm (BALL) in"
Be very careful not to lose Holley screws, break or strip them, or otherwise ruin them. THEY ARE NOT common machine screw sizes. Anyone who plays with firearms knows what I mean. They are oddball threads
On some carb models, be careful blowing out with air. Some carbs have tiny "freeze plugs" at the end of drilled passages, and you can blow them right out, sometimes
I like to blow through all passages after cleaning and air drying, using aerosol carb cleaner and the supplied "straw." I just want to make SURE that those passages are clean and clear
Be VERY careful to NOT OVER tighten the power valve. "Back then" I used to find a number of power valves NEW that leaked. Sometimes I put the old one back in to cure the problem, then had to go round up another new one. I used mostly Standard/ Bluestreak, or Holley kits, and still found a number of bad ones.
Minor point, you left the word "ball" out of the description of the secondary diaphragm. Should have read:
"I like to leave the secondary diaphragm (BALL) in"
Be very careful not to lose Holley screws, break or strip them, or otherwise ruin them. THEY ARE NOT common machine screw sizes. Anyone who plays with firearms knows what I mean. They are oddball threads
I love these threads it shows the talent on this forum. You never think there is someone that can do what you do. Great job documenting this for others. I could never stop and take the pics to do what you have done . Steve
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This layout is worthy of some shop manuals, and better than some.
highflyer
Well-Known Member
Nice .I like these, illustrations and pics are very helpful ..always good info..you gonna do eddie 05 and 06s next????????????????????????...j
Very true. Nothing like this anymore,with this detail.
If I get sent one, I will. I have some Thermoquad catching up to do now though.
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
Rusty, you and Kitty made quite the team on this one. I've never seen a better illustrated carb build. Thanks to you and Kitty for the work. :thumbrig: :thumbrig:
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
subscribed so i dont lose this thread.
BTW.....is it easy to tell a little holley from a big holley??
when i get back home i need to look into telling a couple holleys apart.....i have a 390 cfm for a slanty and i have a 850 that came off a 440.......problem is that i mixed them up and i dont know what i am looking at.......i only know TQs and never really messed with a holley other than pulling them off the engine and mixing them up in my disorganized barn :violent1:
so where do i need to look for numbers?? or what am i looking for to tell them apart?
BTW.....is it easy to tell a little holley from a big holley??
when i get back home i need to look into telling a couple holleys apart.....i have a 390 cfm for a slanty and i have a 850 that came off a 440.......problem is that i mixed them up and i dont know what i am looking at.......i only know TQs and never really messed with a holley other than pulling them off the engine and mixing them up in my disorganized barn :violent1:
so where do i need to look for numbers?? or what am i looking for to tell them apart?
Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
you just uped the ante ....so next time i make a tech thread i need to improve the detail......see what you did :violent1:
rayer:
rayer:
Look on the air horn as shown below.
Then look up the number in the charts here. The part number is also known as the "List" number". It is usually 4-5 digits long. Use the list number to look it up in the charts here:
http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carb Numerical Listing.pdf
And here are some exploded view diagrams for the different series carbs:
Technical Service and Documentation
And some "How to" videos:
Video Blog Posts - Page 1
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice thread Rob!
I like the Chapstick trick.
I like the Chapstick trick.
mguner
How many is too many?
Only thing I really do different is check the flat surfaces of the main body with a body file or any good file made for non ferrous metal.
The ones at the feed store for hoof work are big and work great. If the check ball area in the bowl has some damage or corrosion I have milled them flat inside and drilled two more holes like the later models have to accept the rubber flapper valve.
The ones at the feed store for hoof work are big and work great. If the check ball area in the bowl has some damage or corrosion I have milled them flat inside and drilled two more holes like the later models have to accept the rubber flapper valve.
mguner
How many is too many?
Here you can see the best type of file for truing up a Holley. Get one at your local Feed store as they are used on horses...
Notice the shiny areas vs. the untouched. This is where weird things can happen on idle circuits, vacuum supply and accelerator passages. Especially on old dried gaskets that shrink.
Notice the shiny areas vs. the untouched. This is where weird things can happen on idle circuits, vacuum supply and accelerator passages. Especially on old dried gaskets that shrink.
A question that often comes up during reassembly.
How tight should the bowl screws be?
If you have an inch-pound torque wrench use the chart below - I think this is from an old Holley catalog.
If you don't, use the numbers to make a metal picture of x pounds hanging off the end of a wrench. For example 2 lbs hanging on 12 inch wrench would be 24 inch-lbs.
How tight should the bowl screws be?
If you have an inch-pound torque wrench use the chart below - I think this is from an old Holley catalog.
If you don't, use the numbers to make a metal picture of x pounds hanging off the end of a wrench. For example 2 lbs hanging on 12 inch wrench would be 24 inch-lbs.
Last edited:
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Just look at the throttle bores. The 850 has way bigger butterflies than the 390! 1 11/16" vs 1 7/16".
-
