Homegrown trim restore

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mullinax95

mullinax95

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Location
Anderson, SC
My front bezels on my 67 cuda wasn't the best of shape because they had scratches, dents, and warped. I started to look around on my options of getting them looking better or replaced and found that it is very expensive to have them restored to new condition. I searched the threads on FABO and found places that will take your trim and give you a quote. Also posted a thread on the topic and asked fellow members what they did. This goes right into bunch of $$$$ that I just don't have. So I have tried to take task in hand myself since this is my hobby anyways.

I have took everything off the front of the car that is associated to front bezel trim. I started with the left front bezel since it was worst of shape. I completely took it apart and started to sand the anodizing off to get down to bare aluminum. I found that getting it off was a chore. I talked to some guys at the local car show and got a really good tip. Some of you might not know this but I would like to post this so those that don't will know just in case. You can get some Lye, mix it with water and dip it. It will dissolve the anodizing right off! It made the job much simpler. I found it at the local hardware store. After I removed the anodizing I sanded the scratched out, fixed the dents and warped pieces.

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Same bezel buffed,painted and reassembled.

Now I have to do the headlight covers and the right bezel but I think this looks much better.

Hope this can help anyone with the aluminum trim if they want it to look better without the high cost.

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Longgone said:
Looks marvelous! Nice work Mullinax.
Click to expand...

Well thank you Longgone. It is not a fun job but it was worth it the end. And of course I have more work to do.

The tools I used

Dremel tool
Cordless drill
Pop rivet gun (to put it back together)
Lye
Plastic container
Wood (dent removal)
Hammer
Vice
Sand paper 100gt 220gt
Bench grinder and buffing wheels plus compounds.
Wax

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The anodize was used to protect the aluminum and thats what ma moper was after. But I/we don't drive out cars that often for everyday use and most of the time they are garage kept. So a little tender loving care every so often will clean them up like new again. Wax on the aluminum from what I hear is the key to keeping them nice. You can buy a clear coat from Eastwood but it does state that it dull the shine some.
 
Nice job. Yours came out better than mine. I will redo mine this winter.
 
The before and after pix look outstanding. Great job and thx for sharing. :cheers:
 
Mullinax

First, thank you for sharing and that trim looks great. I am about to take on the same project but without the experience you have. What kind of rivets did use to put it back together? Also did the studs that fasten the trim to the car survive? If it didn't what did you use to replace those studs?

Aloha
Stormin
 
Wowwwwwwwwww nice work Mully!!! If your arms aren't sore from all the work, pat yourself on the back a few times. :-D
 
stormin said:
Mullinax

First, thank you for sharing and that trim looks great. I am about to take on the same project but without the experience you have. What kind of rivets did use to put it back together? Also did the studs that fasten the trim to the car survive? If it didn't what did you use to replace those studs?

Aloha
Stormin
Click to expand...


Stormin,

The size rivets I used was to long but I already had those. I just nipped them off with the Dremel after I riveted. I would use 1/8" dia with 1/4" grip range. I had 1/2" grip range.

The original studs was shot! They striped or broke off. I came up with using a 3/4 long screw and a flat thing (I just can't remember the name of those things LOL!) to hold the screw in place. It will not let the screw turn after you tighten it up.

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Nice work neighbor :)
I used a trim fastener nearly identical to what holds the 2 narrow trunk trims on. Cadium plated #10-24 X 3/4. Ordered from mrgusa.com
Once they are trapped between the parts they can't go anywhere or turn. Stainless flat washers, lock washers, and nuts.
The hardware Mullinax used works too. Any alternative may cause problems if and when the grilles are removed again. Then so did the OEM fasteners.
Clearcoat will take away from the reflection / shine. Not even the windshield can stand up to the sandblasting created on the road so repeated waxing might be the best plan.
 
Wow!! They look out standing mullinax95!!:cheers:
Your hard work sure was worth your time and trouble.
Thanks for the tip's and like CudaChick said X2!!.:-D
 
Excellent work Mullinax. Seeing how they turned out makes me think that even I could try something like that.. or maybe you'll be starting up your own side business ;)

Grant
 
OneOfMany said:
Excellent work Mullinax. Seeing how they turned out makes me think that even I could try something like that.. or maybe you'll be starting up your own side business ;)

Grant
Click to expand...


Yeah you could do it no problem. Just make sure you have a test piece of aluminum so you can see how each step is going. I found out what steps to go with first on a old piece until I got the results I wanted. If it is metal you can polish it with those wheels and compound. They have all different type wheels and compounds to achieve what you are wanting. I polished this brass prop valve and brake lines.

I don't think I would do it for side business. I wouldn't have time to work on my car. LOL!

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That stuff they sell at the car shows ,Green Magic and the sealer does a good job keeping them shiny once the anodize is gone. I know you guys have seen them mirror polish the bottom of a coke can. good stuff
 
mullinax95 said:
Stormin,

The size rivets I used was to long but I already had those. I just nipped them off with the Dremel after I riveted. I would use 1/8" dia with 1/4" grip range. I had 1/2" grip range.

The original studs was shot! They striped or broke off. I came up with using a 3/4 long screw and a flat thing (I just can't remember the name of those things LOL!) to hold the screw in place. It will not let the screw turn after you tighten it up.

Originally Posted by REDFISH Nice work neighbor I used a trim fastener nearly identical to what holds the 2 narrow trunk trims on. Cadium plated #10-24 X 3/4. Ordered from mrgusa.com Once they are trapped between the parts they can't go anywhere or turn. Stainless flat washers, lock washers, and nuts.
The hardware Mullinax used works too. Any alternative may cause problems if and when the grilles are removed again. Then so did the OEM fasteners.
Clearcoat will take away from the reflection / shine. Not even the windshield can stand up to the sandblasting created on the road so repeated waxing might be the best plan
Click to expand...


Mullinax

Thanks for the picture and info on the hardware. I will make my list and head out to the hardware store and see if I can find that flat thing. Great idea. I might have more questions later on once I get the project started.

Redfish

I will check out MrGs too. Do you know what the part number was for the Cadium plated #10-24 X 3/4 fastener?

Aloha
Stormin
 
stormin,

They are called Flat Speed Nuts.

Do you have a Ace Hardware in Hawaii? That is where I got everything.

Ask as many questions as you like.
 
WOW thats impressive. You have inspired me to restore the grille surrounds & headlight bezels myself. Hopefully they turn out as nice as yours. GREAT job!!!
 
Mullinax has got it down on this one..........

The shops get a fortune for this kind of resto, and all it takes is a low-end grinder with buffing wheels, some compound sticks, and a little concentration.

That's great work he's done on those parts, and most enthusiasts can do it too and save hundreds and hundreds of bucks for themselves in the process.......AND you get all the "braggin' rights" on your resto.

Great thread............ 8)
 
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