Hooker Header install issue..

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. POPS6T6

    POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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    So had originally put this under my engine and trans install issue, but it is more related to exhaust I suppose..

    Ok.. so it has been a few months, had some things come up and finally getting back to the car. Good news is, I have the engine and headers in, the bad news is that they are not lining up. What is weird is that the drivers side is no problem at all, I have plenty of clearance even with power steering box in, it is the passenger side is giving me fits. The headers are hitting the transmission pan, and also the collector is hitting the torsion bar close to where the torsion bar is inserted into the crossmember. I tried to mark the headers in the pics with tape to show all the different places where these are hitting. So it leads me to a few questions. I have (from what I can tell when compared to another set) some rather thick isolator blocks, would that be causing my engine to sit to high? Also the transmission seems to be hitting the hump where the transmission crossmember support is? Currently I have power steering in the car, my thought was since I recently acquired a manual steering box, and the motor and headers were in, and there wasn't any issue on drivers side that I would get the headers mocked up and see what issues I had and then switch to manual steering if needed. But the issues are all on the passenger side, and from what everyone says, it is usually the driver side that causes the binding and so forth.


    1rst picture shows looking down through the engine compartment on passenger side. You can see where headers are hitting transmission pan. It is preventing me from getting headers to mount up to heads.

    2nd and 3rd pic show where the collector is hitting against the torsion bar.

    4th pic is a view from below showing headers hitting transmission pan.

    5th pic shows the current support/isolator blocks and a thinner set I have.

    What the heck am I doing wrong here? Do I need to remove torsion bar to make clearance to get the header on passenger side to slide into place? Are isolator blocks (I think that is what they are called, the rubber blocks between motor mounts and k-member) the problem? Do I need those? Without those my engine would be 1/2 lower and moved forward about 1/2". And that might be the clearance I need? This thing is supposed to go out for paint later this month, but I don't want to be banging on headers and putting engine in and out after paint.. Things I wonder, is the motor off center? Is it to high? Am I just mentally challenged? Any suggestions or advice?? Anyone want to come help? Anything at all??
     

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  2. POPS6T6

    POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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    Still having this issue, I did switch out to the smaller/thinner engine isolator blocks and I am still having issues with the passenger side binding up. Any suggestions apart from buying new headers? Is it just the 360/727 combo isn't going to work with these headers? I just ordered the last of the parts for the engine (Distributor, water pump etc etc) and want to get this resolved so I can get this out for paint and get it finished!
     
  3. Marcohotrod

    Marcohotrod Well-Known Member

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    what is your car, what is the Hooker part number? what steel bracket is that bolted to the block-looks very tall. all headers I know of fit 904s and 727s. many headers need a little hammering. I run the Hooker slip on reducers-no gasket to blow out-like 11047
     
  4. POPS6T6

    POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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    Car is a 1966 Barracuda, 360, 727 automatic. The headers are Hooker Super Comp 5208HKR. The motor mounts are from Schumacher A63LA (340/360) mounting brackets. I have installed the shorter blocks that are in the picture.. I never even considered the engine mount brackets could be an issue, from what I hear they are a proven part, but maybe I'm wrong?
     
  5. subcom

    subcom Well-Known Member

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    Check out the 5208 thread at the top of the Early A Bodies category.
    I have the same combo and headers. 727 rubs, centerlink makes contact on pass side, bumps the pan on driver side at full lock. They work but are a less than perfect fit.
     
  6. POPS6T6

    POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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    I've read that post to many times to count now. Seems everyone is having issues on the drivers side, my drivers side is fine, lines up and has some space even, the passenger side is bound up and WILL NOT line up. It is driving me crazy. I even cut and modified the trans cross member and still having issues. I will have to bang the hell out of these tubes to make them work and even then not sure if that will give me the clearance to get them on. Not to mention the flange is hitting the torsion bar cross member...
     
  7. yellow rose

    yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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    I love the early A's like no other. My last race car was a 64 Barracuda. But nothing fits them. It's all custom. Especially when you have to fit R&P steering, big tube headers, set the engine back 8 inches etc.

    If you have yo heat and bend the headers down, it's ok. If you have to dent a tube, that is fine. You don't have to magilla gorilla the dents. Just make it fit. Also, make sure the react trans mount isn't worn out. It can move left or right, up or down or even change the clocking of the engine/trans.


    I love those cars but everything is tight tight tight.
     
  8. subcom

    subcom Well-Known Member

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    The torsion bar part is perplexing. Mine have room in that area and I have standard v8 bars, not slants. Have you tried loosening up the motor mounts and shifting the motor up and toward the passenger side? I have the Schumachers too and recall I had to do this to get some clearance on the pass side. I also ground a little on the centerlink to get some clearance on pass side. A lot of the pics in the 5208 thread are from my trials and tribulations.
     
  9. subcom

    subcom Well-Known Member

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    One other quick tip I learned from removing and reinstalling mine a month back. Drop the draglink. It's easy to do and will free up space the thread some of those tubes through.
     
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    • Marcohotrod

      Marcohotrod Well-Known Member

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      cut the flange off, reweld at a different rotation or use the slip on reducers. that engine bracket is much taller than my stock 1970 A body unit. grind the trans. some and hammer the header some or go 904 or go a833 4 gear
       
    • Divenut

      Divenut Well-Known Member

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      I have "dimpled" some of my headers to clear stuff over the years. Not ideal, but worked at the time :???:

      Pat
       
    • 1Fast340

      1Fast340 Well-Known Member

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      [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU"]Exhaust Header Bash! Testing Power Loss From Dents - Engine Masters Ep. 4 - YouTube[/ame]



      :D
       
    • memike

      memike Super Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      I have the same headers (New in the box) for my 360/904 66 Valiant. Watching this thread.
       
    • Divenut

      Divenut Well-Known Member

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    • cosgig

      cosgig MoBro Inc. FABO Gold Member

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      Did you hammer the pinch weld where the firewall meets the floorpan in the tunnel hump??? You know the 727 doesn't fit without hammering that flat, and it's still tight and may not give you enough wiggle to get the passenger side the free clearance it needs! As for the flange meeting the crossmember....that's a toughy!! I would guess that you need the thin biscuit mount to drop the motor an inch, and even that may not be enough!!!

      Yall are right....nobody makes the perfect set of headers for early A's, probably because there is no perfect way to get it all in there, it's just too damn tight!!! I have Spitfires, manual steering and manual brakes and it's still tighter than a dude's budget!!!
       
    • Doosterfy

      Doosterfy Well-Known Member

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      I've installed lots of headers over the years. I'd say 90% did not fit without some kind of tweaking or rework. Its all par for the course with hot rod building. I'll also say that I hate bad mouthing anyone or any company but the last set of Hooker headers I bought are the last set of that brand I'll buy. Too many quality issues.
       
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      • 1969reddart

        1969reddart Well-Known Member

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        I had to beat the snot out of the hooker headers to get the passenger side around the torsion bar and to clear the steering. On the drivers side had to clearance the steering box and steering coupler. :violent1: After watching that video, I think we're OK.
         
      • POPS6T6

        POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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        I will try to move it up again, the weather has not been cooperating.. I will have to look at that thread and see where you ground the center link..
         
      • POPS6T6

        POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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        Pinch weld was "modified" and by modified I mean beat back and smoothed out.. I have switched to the smaller mounts shown in the last pic and that didn't help either..
         
      • pishta

        pishta I know I'm right....

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        The header to trans pan clearance has nothing to do with your insulators, thick, thin, none. They would hit pan on an engine cradle! I had those on a 65/340/727 combo and everything fit, but was tight everywhere. They were a work of engineering art to snake all those equal length runners in that tight chassis...BUT mine were drilled wrong. The entire header sat about 1/4 inch off center of the ports, sat too low and could never retain the gasket as it would blow out the top. I would tighten them, then use a scissor jack on the collector and push it out until you are off the pan rail, then get yourself one of Cosgigs dual exhaust trans mount that has the cutout for the passenger side. I remember mine fit lower on that side to clear the stock crossmember. Odd that I remembered that after 14 years....clearance and dimple. No harm will be done.
         
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        • POPS6T6

          POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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          I modified the trans mount also. I am going to try to give it another shot hopefully this week if the weather holds. This is the last piece of the puzzle that I need to figure out so I can pull it all out and send it to paint. Frustrating to say the least! Thanks for the advice, will try anything at this point..
           
        • POPS6T6

          POPS6T6 Well-Known Member

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          Well finally able to get under the car and look around. Looks like the headers are hitting the transmission bellhousing. Anyone else ever had this issue? I'm thinking I can grind away some of the metal there, it is only where the dust shield bolts on. Going to get it in the air again and get some pics, but was hoping someone else has had this issue and had some advice...
           
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