How did you teach yourself to paint?

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Cuda416

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I am working on acquiring another project that's damn near paintable as it sits, not in the literal sense, but way more so than my existing project. As such I find myself watching painting videos again and it's all sort of coming back to me wrt the general process but not having ever done it, I need to "teach myself".

So it's with that thought in mind I started thinking about paint materials and the general cost vs quality and how that relates to learning versus doing an actual paint job on a car.

At the moment my plan is to get a hood, door, decklid, whatever, and use it as a crash test dummy for my paint. I call it that because I'm sure it's going to be brutal, at least at first.

I've got a couple of 3M masks with organic filters (probably need new filters), 80g air compressor, decent hvlp gun (DeVilbiss 803558 Finishline 4 FLG-670) and a healthy desire to learn.

Now, supplies... I'd like to keep this process as cheap as possible at first full well realizing the eventually the cost to play will go up, but for learning, what's the lowest cost materials you'd use? Is it worth going cheap or is that a waste of time as well as money?

I suspect I'll use a single stage on the underside and internal areas, and a 2 stage process on the outside.

That's as far as I've gotten at the moment so I guess I'm looking for the collective wisdom of those that have gone before me as a guide.


Thanks FABO

-=C
 
Found a cavalier hood in my dumpster.

Took 5 attempts to get pressure, spray pattern, distance and speed down before the orange peel went away.

In TX, you probably need some good water filtration.

I built a trap line system, where the air turned corners and went up a few times.
Hard for water to do that.
Also a desiccant filter right before the line to the gun, after the final regulator, in addition to the bowl filer, just off the compressor.

Painted the engine compartment and fender tops (good stopping point at side molding) of my Satellite including a repair where some sand got in the paint before sending it to have someone better paint the rest of the car. EC came out real nice, though.

I'm still nervous about it and it would probably take another five practice runs before I could do it again.
 
Found a cavalier hood in my dumpster.

Took 5 attempts to get pressure, spray pattern, distance and speed down before the orange peel went away.

In TX, you probably need some good water filtration.

I built a trap line system, where the air turned corners and went up a few times.
Hard for water to do that.
Also a desiccant filter right before the line to the gun, after the final regulator, in addition to the bowl filer, just off the compressor.
Definitely with you on water control. I built a copper tube condenser a while back but have yet to integrate it into the system. it's got about 50 feet of length and 5 low points each with a valve. Putting a desiccant filter is a great idea.

Thanks!
 
from what I've seen, the cheaper paints tend to have less pigment which them seem to require more coats with added shrinkage later on.

I understand lots of people like PPG and they have the Omni line which seems to be their budget line. I've heard mixed results about paint sold by eastwood etc.

Any thoughts on that and what brands of paint to avoid or gravitate to?
 
I used Nason's Full-Cryl II single stage.

Very cost effective versus some other stuff I priced.

If the gun is held too far away it can get gritty (more so than normal), but other than that, it went on great and has held up great since 2020.

It's also EW1 white and there were no coverage issues.

The local shop I got it from made a 100% dead-on match to the jambs and other existing paint with their photo match gun.
The jambs did get repainted, though.
 
I was a finish spray painter at Mack trucks and watch many come in to apply and test for the job. Some were a natural at it and some would never be a painter.
The best thing I would recommend is get a gun and different paints and start practicing on old parts. Its not something that can be taught by someone. You have to teach yourself.
 
Find people that know how to do it and ask them questions. Some are not good teachers, some are.

You have the right idea. Different paints spray differently, just know that. I would use cheap stuff at first.

Get accustomed to the gun and applying paint evenly. Read and follow the directions. Except how thin to make the paint. For VOC compliance many instructions formula makes it very thick for less overspray, hard to get it to lay down flat like that. Play with it and see what it does.
 
Experience is big but you can shorten the learning period by watching some good Youtube videos but you have to figure out which guys know what they are doing ie Paint Society. One of the confusing things is that people have different procedures....not all of them are great. Follow the paint manufacturers technical data sheet (TDS) for mixing, nozzle sizes, recoat times, etc. The main mistakes I made is spraying too heavy, spraying even though the spray pattern was off and not waiting along enough between coats. I was fortunate enough to be a painters helper when I got my car sprayed last year. I was surprised how light the coats were (base/clear). I used that lesson when spraying a valence and trunk lid and things went better. Of course you can fix a lot of problems when using base/clear thank goodness. A decent gun and good regulator and of course clean dry air will help a lot. The other place I got burnt is not properly blocking all of the car (missed a dent in the roof and the panel in front of the windshield). I fixed it afterwards. Its a good thing it was getting a vinyl roof.
 
I taught myself. best advice, get a good gun to start with

my first painting looked like crap (old bottom can HF gun)

bought a good used pro one when everyone went to the top cans

and found out I actually could paint well, just the gun sucked
 
watched my buddy a few times, painted a few smaller projects before painting an old truck in pieces. have used the Summit brand paints on a few projects with good results. still get a run here or there, some texture depending on what I'm spraying. Have sprayed a few projects for my Dad with more expensive paint with better results. just painted his trike for the second and hopefully last time....... guy scratches everything.........
 
How do you keep track of what primers work with what paints, and what body fillers do that or that, and tell if they're compatible with one another?
 
Join the Southern Polyurethane forum (not the facebook page). High quality products at reasonable prices and the technical support IS SECOND TO NONE. The staff on the phone (typically the owner) and the forum members WANT hobbiest to succeed. That is where I learned it all.
 
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You either have the gift or you don't. Some people will never be a car painter. The second car I painted was my '70 Road Runner back in 1988. When I came to sell it my friend Rodney who has been a car painter all his life asked who painted it. He didn't believe that I did it myself.
Rodney knows his stuff..... everything from hot Rods to headlights....he can work magic with anything. Concours paint winners - probably more wins than anyone around.
 
You either have the gift or you don't. Some people will never be a car painter. The second car I painted was my '70 Road Runner back in 1988. When I came to sell it my friend who has been a car painter all his life asked who painted it. He didn't believe that I did it myself.

In my opinion in comes down to patience. You will screw up and what makes a painter is knowing how to adjust and recover. That said for the hobbiest that means letting it dry, sanding it out and doing it again.

If you go into it thinking it’s a linear process and you will push it in at breakfast and out perfect at dinner is not gonna happen 95% of the time. More than once I have just walked away for a day or week.
 
Join the Southern Polyurethane forum (not the facebook page). Hi quality products a reasonable prices and the technical support IS SECOND TO NONE. The staff on the phone (typically the owner) and the forum members WANT hobbiest to succeed. That is where I learned it all.
I have gone through some of their forum posts. It's a great resource. I'll get over there and join officially at some point.
 

from what I've seen, the cheaper paints tend to have less pigment which them seem to require more coats with added shrinkage later on.

I understand lots of people like PPG and they have the Omni line which seems to be their budget line. I've heard mixed results about paint sold by eastwood etc.

Any thoughts on that and what brands of paint to avoid or gravitate to?

PPG is very good and VERY VERY expensive. Omni is colored water. For base/clear Southern Poly for all primers and Universal Clear. For the base, Wanda or Motobase from Automotive Arts is what the pros over there will tell you (also SPI if you are ok with the few colors they have). All my cars are completly SPI or Motobase base and SPI for everything else.

Jim
 
You either have the gift or you don't. Some people will never be a car painter. The second car I painted was my '70 Road Runner back in 1988. When I came to sell it my friend Rodney who has been a car painter all his life asked who painted it. He didn't believe that I did it myself.
Rodney knows his stuff..... everything from hot Rods to headlights....he can work magic with anything. Concours paint winners - probably more wins than anyone around.

I grew up around artists and people who could draw really, really well. None of if was natural born gifts. We all learned through practice and understanding. I'm a firm believer in that and things come down to practice, patience and reflection. I will say that some people are better at other forms of art and creativity, like paint, stone, wood, charcoal etc. I'll probably get hammered but I think the "you have it or you don't" is more of the creative side, like custom stripes, flames etc. Laying down paint, I would argue is a mechanical (be the robot) kind of thing more than a "talent" thing.

That all said, I'm the beginner with very, very little experience so we'll see if I change my tune.

Thanks though, I appreciate your input.
 
I grew up around artists and people who could draw really, really well. None of if was natural born gifts. We all learned through practice and understanding. I'm a firm believer in that and things come down to practice, patience and reflection. I will say that some people are better at other forms of art and creativity, like paint, stone, wood, charcoal etc. I'll probably get hammered but I think the "you have it or you don't" is more of the creative side, like custom stripes, flames etc. Laying down paint, I would argue is a mechanical (be the robot) kind of thing more than a "talent" thing.

That all said, I'm the beginner with very, very little experience so we'll see if I change my tune.

Thanks though, I appreciate your input.

You learn so much more from failure than success.... Absolutely painting is mechanical.... once you have gotten the formula down (it changes with temps, humidity, etc that is where the art and experience come in).
 
Invest into a good gun spend at least $200, i wish i had done that years ago, a good single stage will spray out nice, and make sure you get a good buffer, if it comes out not right, wet sanding and a buffer will help you out.
 
I'll second what Jim said about SPI for everything before the color and then the SPI Universal Clear over your base coat. I have picked up a lot of tips from Brian on Paint Society channel on You Tube. Go to his channel and subscribe! You can look through his library of videos and pick out the ones he steers towards DIY guys like us. I am learning myself and gain confidence every time I pull the trigger on a paint gun. You're doing yourself a favor by planning to learn on old hoods, doors or trunk lids. If you plan to strip your car to the metal and paint it back the same color, pay attention to what color the primer directly below the ORIGINAL paint is, and replicate that. Have fun with it!

:thumbsup:
 
I'll second what Jim said about SPI for everything before the color and then the SPI Universal Clear over your base coat. I have picked up a lot of tips from Brian on Paint Society channel on You Tube. Go to his channel and subscribe! You can look through his library of videos and pick out the ones he steers towards DIY guys like us. I am learning myself and gain confidence every time I pull the trigger on a paint gun. You're doing yourself a favor by planning to learn on old hoods, doors or trunk lids. If you plan to strip your car to the metal and paint it back the same color, pay attention to what color the primer directly below the ORIGINAL paint is, and replicate that. Have fun with it!

:thumbsup:

Brian has a channel?

Jim
 
Brian has a channel?

Jim
We may be thinking of two different Brian's. The guy I'm speaking of is a school teacher, but also is the painter at an Acura dealership in FL. He's sharp as a tack, and he applies his teaching skills well to his You Tube channel. Go to You Tube and search for Paint Society to see if it's the same Brian you're thinking of.
 
We may be thinking of two different Brian's. The guy I'm speaking of is a school teacher, but also is the painter at an Acura dealership in FL. He's sharp as a tack, and he applies his teaching skills well to his You Tube channel. Go to You Tube and search for Paint Society to see if it's the same Brian you're thinking of.

Brian at SPI.
 
Invest into a good gun spend at least $200, i wish i had done that years ago, a good single stage will spray out nice, and make sure you get a good buffer, if it comes out not right, wet sanding and a buffer will help you out.
I bought a DeVilbiss Finishline 4 FLG-670 a couple of years ago when I thought I was going to be painting my sons car. it's outfitted with the disposable cup system as well.
 
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