How do you glue these back on?

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moparmandan

moparmandan

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Front refurbing.
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moparmandan said:
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Front refurbing.
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I just fixed one like that on the Wife's 72 with JB weld and it went back together just fine.
You need to rough up around the hole and let your JB go wider than the original base size as well as on top of the broken off part around it's base so it has a good capture of the plastic stud.

I also oiled the screw threads lightly before I put it in.:D
 
Good ole JB! It was at the top of the list. Never tried Gorilla etc. Figured I'd ask. Thanks!
 
I have used paraffin wax on the screws going into plastic, works real good or just bar soap also works good
 
I have yet to remove one of these that did not have at least one broken lug. I use west system epoxy with adhesive filler to repair them. I also reinforce others before they break. The pieces and surrounding area needs to be scuffed well for adhesion. Also dont build up too thick or you may have problems fitting back into the holes on the glove box. You could enlarge the holes in the glove box door if needed but I have not had to do that yet.
JB weld will work but I prefer to use the west system with adhesive filler because I can thicken it to where I want it. JB tends to be a little too fluid for repairs like this.
 
The best plastic glue I have found, 3500 psi tensile strength, glues ABS,
High-Strength Acrylic, Plexus 30500, 1.58 oz. Cartridge made by Devcon,
Mcmaster-Carr has it, You need a gun but I use it for a lot of stuff. It glues all metals, ceramics, concrete, wood, never had a failure with it but JB wont glue metal to plastic It has failed every time, sometimes it holds for 6 months but it eventually falls off.
 
brian6pac said:
The best plastic glue I have found, 3500 psi tensile strength, glues ABS,
High-Strength Acrylic, Plexus 30500, 1.58 oz. Cartridge made by Devcon,
Mcmaster-Carr has it, You need a gun but I use it for a lot of stuff. It glues all metals, ceramics, concrete, wood, never had a failure with it but JB wont glue metal to plastic It has failed every time, sometimes it holds for 6 months but it eventually falls off.
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Hmmmm. Wife is a dental assistant, just happen to have a gun and mixing tubes..........
 
Fit the plastic pieces together dry, and using an acid brush, dab a bit of methyl ethyl keytone you can get from lowes into the crack. It will suck right in with capillary action right into the joint. It acts as a solvent adhesive and slightly melts the plastic as the glue allowing the original material to re melt and become the glue joint. Let it dry overnight before fooling with it. It requires the pieces to fit tight to work.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Fit the plastic pieces together dry, and using an acid brush, dab a bit of methyl ethyl keytone you can get from lowes into the crack. It will suck right in with capillary action right into the joint. It acts as a solvent adhesive and slightly melts the plastic at the glue allowing the original material to re melt and become the glue joint. Let it dry overnight before fooling with it. It requires the pieces to fit tight to work.
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So mek first, then glue? Or just mek?
 
Gorilla expands so make sure you clamp it and not use much at the edge as it will possible weep out.
 
Heres a pic of a screw lug on a 69 barracuda grill that was broken off. Its been fitted back in the spot it was broken out of. Then a brush is dipped into the mek, and touched to the crack. It sucks itself right in and melts the plastic, it then fuses it back together.

You have to be careful with mek though. It melts damn near everything made of plastic, and will eat paint and discolor vinyl. Only use on parts that are removed from your car, and be careful with it. Its a fantastic solvent adhesive, but will **** up some **** if your not careful with it.

I am planning on redoing these grille surrounds and primering them, so a little solvent dribbling can be sanded off when dry.

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Being that its melting the plastic, the pieces have to fit tight. A broken off stud needs to be glued back in the spot it was removed from. This way it fits tight, also you need to let it dry overnight. This method will make the stud at least as strong as original. You can add JB weld around it to beef it up and make it stronger. I have glued cracked A pillar covers, 69 cuda grille surrounds etc with this method. I absolutely hate getting cracked parts to repair that people have previously tried to super glue. That is the wrong way to go. It adds a film to the part that wont allow the MEK to work and melt the plastic back together.
 
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Heres cracks in a grille surround i glued, let dry, and then sanded. Second pic with it levelled out by block sanding, you cannot tell where they were, the plastic is as strong as the OEM because its all the original plastic melted back together. No glue joint made with foreign materials like jb weld, super glue, gorilla glue etc.

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To this. All with MEK,, patience, and lots of clamps. I filled in the blanks with a bit of JB weld as well

Still working on em for my kids 69 cuda. Cheaper than $750 for repops.

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Wow, thanks Mat. I'm some what familiar with mek, we use it at work as a cleaner/solvent. So I know it will melt plastic. Never thought about using it to rebond plastic pieces together. Very clever. Thanks alot!
 
We use it as a cleaner/solvent at work as well. I happened to spill a bit on the stainless top of my tool box. A bic pen rolled into it. I picked it up and it was stringy, then it dried and the stringy plastic hardened in strings. I glued 2 bic pen tubes together, then tried to break em apart. They broke apart anywhere but the glue joint, so i experimented with an A pillar moulding that was busted in half. Once it was dry i was able to twist and flex it like it was one piece again, because well it now was 1 piece again.
 
That's a great story. Glad you discovered it. Wasn't penicillin an accident, too? Lol.
 
I have used plastiweld solvent adhesive before. Its not cheap for a small bottle but it works the same way. So when the mek did that, the light turned on.
 
I will for sure. No mek until tomorrow. Got busy taking the last center trim piece out from the radio/heater control. What a pain! Looking forward to trying this.
 
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