The ride height range vs the adjuster setting is set by the offset on the torsion bar hexes and how the LCA is clocked on the bar. Stock bars use 20*, aftermarket bars typically use anything from 20* all the way to 0.
Because larger bars don’t twist as much with the weight of the car, the offset on the hexes can be pretty important to the adjuster setting. The other thing is how the LCA’s are clocked in the bars. Per the factory the stock LCA’s are supposed to hang all the way down as far as they’ll go (they hit the K frame at some point). But that’s to clock them properly for a 20* offset.
With larger bars, I usually try to install the LCA’s closer to the final ride height. There can sometimes be multiple locations for the LCA install, it depends on the offset on tha bars. One location will be 60* from the next (one hex flat to the next). So sometimes you can only line up the LCA on the hex in one spot, sometimes you can line them up in two, it depends on the hex offset.
Set the ride height you want, then roll the car to settle the suspension. I usually take mine around the block to make sure the car is really settled all the way, bouncing and even rolling s couple feet doesn’t usually settle them out fully. You’ll also want to make sure that the adjuster is still in contact with the lever when thr UCA is on the upper bump stop. If it’s not, you may need taller upper bump stops (I did).
The ride height spec in the FSM is as obselete as the alignment specs if you use radials. With radials the best suspension geometry actually occurs when the control arms are parallel to the ground. Which lowers the car almost 2” from the FSM recommendation. That’s th best camber gain curve, lowest bump steer numbers, etc. Obviously you don’t have to lower the car that much, all I’m saying is the reason the FSM set the height the way it was isn’t really relevant anymore if you run radials.
