How much more is it worth?

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Oldmanmopar said:
I always add my options and changes I like. Once you take on a rebuild its your build not the manufactures . I just saw this Documented 71 340 Duster By Steve Magnante

No drip rail chrome
wrong grille
no rally dash
wrong dash rivets
But just listen to him describe this original 340 car at a dealer

And he is not in prison last I heard LMFAO at you guys

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wrong grill? ....what grill should be in it?..Looks like a 71 grill that has been painted but i could be wrong?
 
1 of 58 that's rare..and how many are still around? Having that block repaired and installed would mean a lot to someone interested in a fully restored, rare vehicle. Everyone has different interests and some guys like to restore their cars. It's a lot more work and effort.I don't know why they take so much heat?
I applaud them and love restored cars but never had one!
 
missing linc said:
I would let the next owner decide if they want to spend the $$ on a repair, personally I doubt it's salvageable, but definitely a part of the car's history. I've scrapped similarly cracked blocks, not worth it IMO.

Damn sweet car BTW, love the color combo!
:thumbsup:
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I like this answer. Even if was a perfect original block, why put it back in the car to wear it out?
 
that car will be worth way more with a good running 360 in it, and that boat anchor 340 in the trunk
 
I wouldn't try to do anything to the original block other than keeping it and selling it with the car when I decided to let it go.

As far as stamping the non matching engine with the cars vin, that would be a no for me. Even if you kept it on the up and up now, somewhere down the line someone else wouldn't.
 
I wouldn’t re stamp the block either.
That feels shady. ITS NOT the original block so why do it. Thanks for all the input
Final decision
It has a brand new date period correct 340 in it and the original block will stay in the corner in case the car every leaves the family!
 
The problem with that block is the crack is across that boss bear the head bolt. If it was lower in the valley, no question, it could be pinned. It need to soak in molasses or Evaporust first. If you can find a shop WELL EXPERIENCED in pinning, or brazing and a big oven with ramp/soak heat controls I'd ask them.
 
The only time and I mean ONLY time you ever re-stamp the VIN on a block is if you absolutely have to surface a block and that removes the numbers. And you document the crap out of it so it is legit. There is no other reason to stamp a VIN on a block that wasn’t the original VIN for that block.
 
Looking at that BIG crack, I think it's repairable, but the only way I'd attempt it would be to finish cutting that whole piece OFF, dressing it to fit back FLAT against the block, weld it back on and machine the deck. Otherwise, just "clamping" it together and welding it will have tension on it and probably break again.

Having said that, I still say that block is DONE.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Looking at that BIG crack, I think it's repairable, but the only way I'd attempt it would be to finish cutting that whole piece OFF, dressing it to fit back FLAT against the block, weld it back on and machine the deck. Otherwise, just "clamping" it together and welding it will have tension on it and probably break again.

Having said that, I still say that block is DONE.
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Yes sir. When you have all that displacement, the block is toast. It the car will be worth more with a non numbers matching block than a numbers matching block that has damage like that.
 
Your care is very rare. If you want to run it across the block at Mecum, I'd have the original block repaired. Sleeved, welded, whatever is needed. At the very least, keep the original numbers matching block and parts with the sale.JMO.
 
Interesting car. Many years ago, I used to own 2 '69 GTS 340 convertibles with that color combo. Both were automatics though....one had bucket seats and and AM-FM radio, and the other had a bench and AM radio. Otherwise, they were the same. IIRC, one went to Chicago, and the other to the Los Angeles area. I probably should have kept and restored them, but, back then, they weren't all that valuable.
 
ch1ll said:
I would not be too harsh with your words, he more than likely has forgotten more about mopars than YOU and I will ever know. Plus he has been a good guy around here, honest and fair.
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You have no idea what I know... One thing I know is integrity & restamping a block & calling it numbers matching isn't an example of integrity, quite the opposite...

Okay, just read Oldman mopars follow up post... Restamp but don't call it matching numbers... Yeah, great, now you sell the car & the next person will claim it's numbers matching.... Saw just that scenario back in the 90's on a TX9 440-6 4 Spd Roadrunner... Gorgeous car, incredibly straight, paint a mile deep... Original motor long gong... Guy that built the car restamped the block.... When he sold it I Was there when he told the buyer it was a restamp.. A couple years later it's for sale and advertised as "Numbers Matching"....

Just don't restamp the block & know you've done the right thing....
 
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1WildRT said:
You have no idea what I know... One thing I know is integrity & restamping a block & calling it numbers matching isn't an example of integrity, quite the opposite...
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I agree 100%. I always cringe when people start throwing insults around based on how much someone may or may not know. We all know different things. It's a two way street though and something you should also keep in mind as well.
 
Well i don't like to see mis representation either but it's everywhere. I have walked from some
solid projects because in our rust belt re bodying is common. Many rotted 340 cars dashes
have been transferred to nice rust free southern cars.
Still i have always thought it was my responsibility to make sure it's legit.It's pointless to rag on the
bad guys..just think of the scorpion and the frog! You'll get yourself all upset but the frog's goin' down!
Keep your house in order and you will be fine!
 
Rat Bastid said:
The only time and I mean ONLY time you ever re-stamp the VIN on a block is if you absolutely have to surface a block and that removes the numbers. And you document the crap out of it so it is legit. There is no other reason to stamp a VIN on a block that wasn’t the original VIN for that block.
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Resurfacing the block does not remove the vin number.
 
A warranty block with no numbers is the next best thing to a matching numbers block.

A date correct block is next.

I've heard of people suspecting re-stamps being able to find the original numbers using all sorts of different methods like magnafluxing, thermal imaging, etc.

If you have a blank warranty block.....just leave it blank.
That way it can be used in any car made in that date range.
if you stamp it, you basically take that away, and sully the block more or less permanently.
 
Veryfastdart said:
I have a 1969 dart GTS 340 four-speed convertible. 1 of 58 ever built. I have restored the car and have a period correct 340 in it with the matching numbers transmission. I have the matching numbers block but it has two cracks in it from the previous owner letting it sit out in the winter and freezing up. My machine shop said it can probably be fixed, they need to inspect it, and they said it will be expensive, View attachment 1715846753 View attachment 1715846754 View attachment 1715846755 View attachment 1715846756 but their question was how much more is the car worth with the matching number engine?
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I think you should drive it and enjoy it with a good block. If you sell it one day put the block in the trunk/crate with any other part that goes with it and let the next guy think about it and spend to attempt to make it a running Matching numbers or not. Does it have to live between the inner fenders to be or not to be a matching numbers sale? Makes me think of the guy who has a fast toy option and takes off the A/C parts to have fun on the track at times and he sells the car with the complete missing parts in a box. At times one even has to fix/restore pieces if said new owner wish's it back for hopefully B&J cool aid prices. Drive it and get lots of smiles per mile's and let us other people enjoy seeing it on the road and bring back maybe a memory. I almost bought one just like it and even the same color in blue but it was hit and bent in the front a bit and so i picked the 67 front disc brake RS SS 396 4 speed and a 12 bolt beside it instead. Thank you for my memory time and one opinion on the subject at hand.
 
fish stink said:
I think you should drive it and enjoy it with a good block. If you sell it one day put the block in the trunk/crate with any other part that goes with it and let the next guy think about it and spend to attempt to make it a running Matching numbers or not. Does it have to live between the inner fenders to be or not to be a matching numbers sale? Makes me think of the guy who has a fast toy option and takes off the A/C parts to have fun on the track at times and he sells the car with the complete missing parts in a box. At times one even has to fix/restore pieces if said new owner wish's it back for hopefully B&J cool aid prices. Drive it and get lots of smiles per mile's and let us other people enjoy seeing it on the road and bring back maybe a memory. I almost bought one just like it and even the same color in blue but it was hit and bent in the front a bit and so i picked the 67 front disc brake RS SS 396 4 speed and a 12 bolt beside it instead. Thank you for my memory time and one opinion on the subject at hand.
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Spot on, in my opinion. I have the build sheet and numbers matching motor. I rebuilt ti, but I shrink wrapped it and put it in the corner. I'm building a 408 to install in it, because I want to put the hammer down often. In my opinion, I have the best of both worlds, but that's why there's more than one flavor of ice cream.
 
YY1 said:
A warranty block with no numbers is the next best thing to a matching numbers block.

A date correct block is next.

I've heard of people suspecting re-stamps being able to find the original numbers using all sorts of different methods like magnafluxing, thermal imaging, etc.

If you have a blank warranty block.....just leave it blank.
That way it can be used in any car made in that date range.
if you stamp it, you basically take that away, and sully the block more or less permanently.
Click to expand...

I've never understood this, once the original block is gone that's it, it's no longer a numbers match car. Maybe this something the corvette peddlers started in the 80's when Mopars started getting hot investment wise.
 
justinp61 said:
I've never understood this, once the original block is gone that's it, it's no longer a numbers match car. Maybe this something the corvette peddlers started in the 80's when Mopars started getting hot investment wise.
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It's a way for people with extremely rare cars to still justify their Sticker price. Just like that GYC Challenger that put them on the Map and the non original Drivetrain. Because they think it's OK it turns into a cult following and next thing you know it's the new "Thing."

But one could argue the first time you change the oil it's no longer original so people will have different opinions. Mine is if I'm paying some hideous price for a car with a OEM type attempt at being restored it better have the main components from when it rolled off the assembly line or no deal. Otherwise go buy something else and build your own...

JW
 
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