How should I start no oil to rockers

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Ienjoymyaandbbodies

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Hi Slant fans. I purchased a 1967 Survivor Valiant. It has a overhauled 1964 170 engine. Receipts show new cam bearings, plus two additional times to remove the head. Each removal was to install 2 valve guide sleeves and resurface head. That was 10 years ago.
I’m trying to diagnose #1 and #6 misfire.
Removed valve cover to adjust valves. Found it absolutely dry. No trace of wet oil. I want to start with first steps to prove oil flow to rockers. There does not appear to be a flat or notch at either end of the rocker shaft. I’m going to try:
Remove spark plugs
Remove rear pedestal (what is the correct length of rear long bolt)
Crank engine to prove oil flow
Push a metal rod through pedestal oil hole to head bolt?
Remove head bolt then crank to prove oil flow?
I’m hoping the cam bearing is not blocking oil flow.

Another question. I do have a like new reman head Assembly from a 1968 225. Will it fit the 1964 170 engine?

Any prior experience of oil flow to head is appreciated...
 
Later head fits fine. Sounds like you have a good grasp on how to proceed. Depending on "which" year model head it has, it's possible it could have a mismatch of that rear bolt. I think what I would do first, is remove that rear most bolt and spin the engine over looking for signs of oil and proceed from there.
 
Might just be a clogged rocker shaft. Its unusual for there to be minimal/no oil flow at the opposite ends.
 
Not sure how long it would have run with no oil. Is it clean under the cover or nasty? If nasty the screen in the pan could be clogged. Is the oil at the filter? Normal rear bolt is just a longer bolt. The exposed plug head has a special rear bolt and shaft to keep shaft from being installed wrong.
 
Just posted this in another thread, when I got the head back from the machine shop for the K6 1.0, the cleaned & boiled head had the oil passage plugged solid. Wire, carb cleaner, & about 10-15mins with the head off to clear it. Glad I caught it/was sure to check it B4 puttin' it together. You're on the track, good luck, I'm with Ya on the cam brgs.! Fingers crossed!
 
Scooper said:
Might just be a clogged rocker shaft. Its unusual for there to be minimal/no oil flow at the opposite ends.
Click to expand...

I agree. My 225 had not been run for 32 yrs when I got it.
Did a full rebuild but found that the rocker shaft was plugged with dried out oil sludge. There is a small oil feed hole (1/8"?) through the shaft for each rocker. Mine were plugged. I took the plugs out of each end of the shaft and cleaned it well with a bore brush and solvent, including the feed holes.
Pretty easy to do without getting deep into the engine.
 
What size are the plugs on the end? And you just knocked one side in and removed like a water welsh plug?
 
avf383 said:
What size are the plugs on the end? And you just knocked one side in and removed like a water welsh plug?
Click to expand...

Exactly!
I don't recall the diameter but they were ruined removing them. It's been about 6 years but I may still have a few somewhere.
 
Yup. I never worried about trying to save freeze plugs/welch plugs. They're cheap. Should be able to get close enough for a measurement with a dial caliper in the end of shaft.
 
Many Many thanks to the member that suggested to remove the oil pump relief valve!
I.is best to start at the source.
What a surprise!
There is no spring and no plunger!
It would seem that decades of prior repair work has taken its toll. I just got the Valiant and I am nursing it back to normal. It must have had a low oil pressure problem I would guess, and someone did a bandage to fix it. The oil pressure light worked and only showed normal flickering at idle when I got it.
I will get a new oil pump and try to replace it per factory service manual.
Thank you all for your help.
 
oil pump on full bypass? Amazing...wonder what the rest of the bearings look like?
 
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