How To A-833 4 Speed Rebuild pics

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smartken22

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A-833 4 Speed Rebuild pics

I started rebuilding my tranny so I thought that I would post some pics of the process for those thinking about trying this on their own one day...The first couple pictures are of the manuals I would get as they go into perfect detail and step by step instructions for teardown and buildup. Next are pics of the tranny torn down, and the reverse gear tool I made to get the reverse gear out.

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Here are some pictures of the assembly process as I am completing it. I did not post pics of the disassembly since that is the easy part. Just invest in a nice set of snap ring pliers! I also bought a new rebuild kit so I did not have to worry about endplay and bearing wear. I have a piece of mind with new components. Here is an explanation in order of pics from top to bottom:
1) Gears laid out and cleaned up
2) I installed a countershaft arbor and then 2 sets of 19 needle bearings coated with heavy grease (I used transgel from Brewers) on each side of the countershaft.
3) View of arbor dummy shaft installed
4) Opposite side of countershaft with 19 needle bearings installed.
5/6) Final spacers installed.
7) Thrust washers installed.
Final pic: Lay the countershaft in the case and let sit on the bottom. Make sure the thrust washers stay lined up with the case when installing. You will install this after the main input pinion is installed.

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Here are some pictures of the main input shaft pinion install and countershaft final install.
1 - I took the main input to the transmission shop to have the bearing pressed on since I do not have a press.
2 - All cleaned up
3 - installed 16 needle bearings plus c-clip
4 - installed input shaft in case
5 - Installed c-clip onto bearing
6/7 - Lift up countershaft until it meshes with input shaft (ensure thrust washers are in position) and drive in shaft with woodruff key installed through the countershaft.
8 - Here is the arbor dummy shaft coming out other end
9 - Final install of countershaft/input shaft

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Thanks...glad I can help out! I know I would have loved this tech. Here are some pics of the reverse gear going in. I am going to take the mainshaft to the transmission shop today to get the tailshaft bearing pressed in and then will post pics of the mainshaft buildup.

1 - Reverse assembly laid out and cleaned up.
2/3 - Install a new o-ring on the lever shaft, lube it up and slide it into the case. Install the fork into the lever as well. In this pic I also installed the reverse detent ball, spring gaskets and plug.
4 - Position the reverse idler shaft in end of case.
5 - Install reverse gear with the fork slot facing the rear of the tranny, engage the fork into the gear and then drive the idle shaft through with the woodruff key installed.
6 - Install the backup light switch and gasket

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I finally got over to the shop to get the bearing pressed in so here are the mainshaft buildup pics to that point. I plan to finish building the mainshaft tonight and install it into the tailshaft housing so more pics later!
1 - Mainshaft laid out
2 - Slide on 2nd gear (cone towards rear)
3 - Here is the 1st/2nd gear synchronizer. Assemble starting with brass stopring flat on bench followed by clutch gear sleeve. install the struts and then install the strut spring with the tang on the ring in one of the struts. Snap the ends of the strut spring in the remaining two struts. Flip over the sleeve on top of the brass stopring and install another strut spring.
4 - Install one brass stopring, the assembled synchronizer, followed by another stopring. Ensure both stoprings are indexed correctly.
5 - Install 1st speed (cone towards brass stopring)
6 - Install tailshaft main bearing lockring and have bearing pressed on mainshaft.

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I plugged away some more on the tranny tonight. Here are some pictures of the tailshaft install.
1 - Install the mainshaft into the tailhousing until bearing is past the groove in the tail housing. This is the hardest part of the whole build...compress the snap ring and push the mainshaft so the snap ring clips into the tailhousing. This process took me a half hour!
2 - Install the 3rd speed gear on the mainshaft (cone facing forward)
3 - Install brass stopring
4 - Here is the step by step process to build up the synchronizers. Lay brass stopring as shown.
5 - Install clutch on stopring
6 - Install sleeve over clutch
7 - Install three struts and install the strut spring with tang on one strut as shown.
8 - Finish installing strut spring in remaining struts. Flip and install spring in opposite side.
9 - Install 3rd/4th synchronizer onto mainshaft (Fork slot facing rear)
10 - Install snapring securing all pieces to mainshaft.

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Here are some more pictures of the tranny build:
1 - Install the final stopring with lots of lube!
2 - Final stopring installed
3 - Install the mainshaft/tailshaft assembly into the case. You need to ensure you install the gasket, slide the reverse gear all the way towards the rear and move the 3rd/4th gear synchro forward enough to where the struts do not come out. This will help when installing the assembly.
4 - Once everything bottoms out, torque the tailshaft to the housing.
5 - Painted tranny!
6 - Lay out housing cover
7 - Install new O-rings on the shifter levers
8 - Here is the layout of the shifter interlock
9 - Installed shifter
10 - Final assembly of shifter interlocks

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Here are the final pictures of the transmission all completed! All in all this was a very easy process. Hope this helps all you manual bubbas!
1 - Install the shift forks into the synchro grooves in the housing.
2 - Pics of the bellhousing installed
3 - Install the seal in the forward bearing retainer, gasket and install into the front of tranny. Pay attention to the oil groove position!
4 - Install side cover and torque cover bolts and you are finished!

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Read more about this article here...
 
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Thats awesome!! Thanks for the pics and instructions...I had the tranny shop go thru mine, but Im saving this just in case!
 
I feared transmissions and my dad never could figure out how to put one back together 30 years ago.
So a box of tranny sat around for 30 years. I found it in storage and he went "where did that come from?"

Well i slowly jig sawed it back together and now see its easier than i thought. If you can turn a wrench on a car, you can rebuild your own manual transmission.

May try a 727 someday :)
 
I feared transmissions and my dad never could figure out how to put one back together 30 years ago.
So a box of tranny sat around for 30 years. I found it in storage and he went "where did that come from?"

Well i slowly jig sawed it back together and now see its easier than i thought. If you can turn a wrench on a car, you can rebuild your own manual transmission.

May try a 727 someday :)

I agree with you on this one...it is a lot easier than I was expecting! Some mechanical know how and lots of patience! The service manuals help out even more. Now when it comes to an auto, that is a whole different animal! I am not sure that I would want to tackle one of those!
 
I once took my 4-speed apart to change all the gaskets and seals. Did I mention I didn't have a manual? :banghead: Imagine my surprise when I removed the tail housing and the mainshaft came out with it, dumping a bunch of roller bearings deep inside the trans. :eek:ops: I got the roller bearings back in place and used some wheel bearing grease to hold them in place. With the help of my dad ( I was at his house ) it took many, many tries to get evertything all lined back up without knocking the roller bearings out of place. When we did get it together the mainshaft spun alot easier than it had before. The only thing I didn't remove was the reverse gear assembly to replace the o-ring on the shaft. No home-made tool. So far it's been working fine for the last few years. And no leaks!



Wylde1.
 
I once took my 4-speed apart to change all the gaskets and seals. Did I mention I didn't have a manual? :banghead: Imagine my surprise when I removed the tail housing and the mainshaft came out with it, dumping a bunch of roller bearings deep inside the trans. :eek:ops: I got the roller bearings back in place and used some wheel bearing grease to hold them in place. With the help of my dad ( I was at his house ) it took many, many tries to get evertything all lined back up without knocking the roller bearings out of place. When we did get it together the mainshaft spun alot easier than it had before. The only thing I didn't remove was the reverse gear assembly to replace the o-ring on the shaft. No home-made tool. So far it's been working fine for the last few years. And no leaks!



Wylde1.

I hear ya there! I did the same thing when I tore this thing down and thats when I told myself that I needed to invest in a nice set of service manuals. Well worth it! Glad your build worked out!
 
smartken, thanks for taking the time to take pics of this for us! I have been wanting to tear mine down for a while now... Right now i have a 3 speed in my Valiant and it is driving me batshit! Seeing pics makes it much less intimidating... thanks again.
 
Nice write up and photo's.
Harbor freight sells a bearing removal kit for about $40.00 that will remove any bearing in a 833.
To put them back on freeze the shaft overnight, and heat the bearing to about 350 deg in your wifes toaster oven, they will slide right on.
You may need a short piece of pipe to seat the bearing all the way.
 
Great thread, and excellent work, THanks for sharing with the rest of us.
 
Just in the middle of painting mine and putting it back together...I have 1 oddball bolt for the side cover. I dont think its correct...I think the previous owner used what he had. Notice the shoulder is longer and the bolt itself is longer?? I tried in all the holes and doesnt want to snug up. I dont want to "stack" washers either. Any ideas??

Thanks
4spdragtop

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...you MIGHT be able to get singles from either brewers or passon? prolly would have to call and ask on that one...
 
I plan to use the GL-4 80W-90 gear oil and from my experience it should take just shy of a gallon. I am not planning on filling it until I get the motor ready to install. I will let you know the exact amount once installed. That is some pretty awesome linkage that you fabbed up! As a metal fabricator I may attempt it, however, you should try to sell them as I am sure there is a really good market for it! I know I myself would buy a set! Food for thought...

very nice work! looks great! by the way, what gear oil are you gonna use? and what the capacities? i forget...

here's a good idea for your linkage....dont worry, i wont be mad if you copy it...lol :)

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166580
 
That is for the backup light switch harness...here are some pics of mine. Hope this helps.

A833 4-Speed 18-1.jpg


Just in the middle of painting mine and putting it back together...I have 1 oddball bolt for the side cover. I dont think its correct...I think the previous owner used what he had. Notice the shoulder is longer and the bolt itself is longer?? I tried in all the holes and doesnt want to snug up. I dont want to "stack" washers either. Any ideas??

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
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Additionally, the longer shouldered bolts should go in the lower right two holes of the side cover. If you need more clarification I will pull mine back out to verify for you with pictures. Let me know as I do not plan to install my tranny until I pick the motor up from my Dad's house.

Just in the middle of painting mine and putting it back together...I have 1 oddball bolt for the side cover. I dont think its correct...I think the previous owner used what he had. Notice the shoulder is longer and the bolt itself is longer?? I tried in all the holes and doesnt want to snug up. I dont want to "stack" washers either. Any ideas??

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
Additionally, the longer shouldered bolts should go in the lower right two holes of the side cover. If you need more clarification I will pull mine back out to verify for you with pictures. Let me know as I do not plan to install my tranny until I pick the motor up from my Dad's house.

So in your last pic, the 2 spots you are talking about are the 2 with the "raised" pads?? I seen those and tried, but wouldnt fit, plus I only have one with the larger shoulder...I will take a look at it again tomorrow.
Thanks!!
 
Hmmmm...you got me second guessing myself! I will pull my side cover off in the morning and let you know how my setup is for the bolt config in regards to shoulder length. More pics to follow...
So in your last pic, the 2 spots you are talking about are the 2 with the "raised" pads?? I seen those and tried, but wouldnt fit, plus I only have one with the larger shoulder...I will take a look at it again tomorrow.
Thanks!!
 
Hmmmm...you got me second guessing myself! I will pull my side cover off in the morning and let you know how my setup is for the bolt config in regards to shoulder length. More pics to follow...

Thanks Ken, I have put some goop and gasket on the case, so if I pull my case off I will tear the gasket:banghead: It had been a while since I took the cover off and blasted it and totally forgot there was one odd ball bolt!! Oh it also looks with the bolts I have that the there are 2 standard bolts(no shoulders) that go in the upper left holes(in my pic)?? Sorry, for hijacking the thread, but I thought instead of starting a new one, I might just piggy back off of yours! The info might help others as well.

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
When I pulled mine apart (I have the later style cover if it makes a difference), the two standard bolts where in the lower right position on those raised pads. I can't remember if I had one or two longer shoulder bolts, but I think one of them went at the 9 o'clock position.
 
so, how much did the rebuild kit cost you? nice thread, as this will help alot of us out!
 
I ordered the kit, assembly lube, and an arbor tool through Brewers for $136.37 shipped! I did not order synchros as I had new ones already onhand. Those were not included in the kit.

so, how much did the rebuild kit cost you? nice thread, as this will help alot of us out!
 
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