HOW TO FIX THE VOLTAGE LIMITER

Discussion in 'Electrical and Ignition' started by d1970, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. d1970

    d1970 TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY

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    I have a friend that needs help with his voltage limiter on his 1968 Ralley Gauge cluster. I know the voltage limiter is part of his gas gauge, but how do you fix it. Thanks
     
  2. 72Dart6pack

    72Dart6pack Harder Better Faster Stronger.

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    Lots of posts on the topic. Start hunting around for them.
     
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    • 1969383S

      1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I will likely get some rath but I would buy a kit that includes new gauges and an electronic VL.

      The kits produced by charger specialties and sold through several vendors work very well. The instructions are not the best per say, and some mods not listed in the instructions need to happen. I am very pleased with the accuracy and operation of these new gauges. Just need to pay special attention to detail with the ammeter and bench test before re-installing the cluster. The other items not included that you will want are likely in your kitchen drawer.
       
      Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
    • Demonic

      Demonic Well-Known Member

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    • iScamp

      iScamp Well-Known Member

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      Solid state voltage limiters are available on Ebay. They go for about $50.00. Homemade solid state VL can be made from Radio Shack parts for about $3.50 and an hours time.
      Plenty of information available on the FABO, FBBO, and FMJO forums if you search for it. There is no real fix to a bad one. You can take them apart and clean the contacts but, I've not seen that last very long.
       
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      • 1969383S

        1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        My original fuel gauge and VR are in good working order, as well the ammeter.

        My OP and Temp gauges were toast. Because the new gauges needles are slightly different I replaced them all. Don’t forget they are 50 years old! I hate pulling the cluster in a restored car more than once, and not even then. I gambled and lost the first time!
         
      • d1970

        d1970 TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO HAVE A GOOD DAY

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        the 68 Ralley Dash cluster does not use the plugin VL, it's built in the gas gauge.
         
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        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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          I'm not sure anyone is claiming that. If you read the info posted on the RTE page it shows how to "jumper in" an external limiter for the internal fuel gauge unit
           
        • 1969383S

          1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          We all know that method shown is sketchy at best. Would you do it? Your opinion matters. The IVR they sell works great but!
           
          Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
        • mvh

          mvh FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Well, what's your alternative, for keeping original-looking gauges? We don't all want some crazy tuner-looking dashboard.
           
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          • 67Dart273

            67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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            Yeh, I WOULD. Several people warn about the delicate surgery, but seems like all you need to do is be methodical and careful, and test as you go along.
             
          • harrisonm

            harrisonm Well-Known Member

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            In a 68 Ralley dash, the voltage limiter should be inside the gas gauge like in my 69 Barracuda Ralley dash. I know there have been a lot of posts on this, but you should consider taking you gas gauge out and having it repaired. I don't remember the place that did mine (something like M & H Instruments) off the top of my head. I'll look it up tomorrow and try to remember to post it. If I forget, and you are interested, PM me.
             
          • 1969383S

            1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            The kit from charger specialties. The needles are just a little different but if you install all 4 it is hard to tell. These gauges are not thermal like the originals. They re-act very quickly and have worked very well for me all this year. Over all I am very pleased.

            The issue is the mounting and wiring of the ammeter. The wires are reversed, firstmost and the instructions do not warn you of that, if you pay attention to the red dot on the post then you are up one. You have to drill the holes for the ammeter studs larger through the housing cause they are just a tad wider. However it still causes a bit of an issue with alignment. The kit should include some non conductive liners to insert through the newly opened original holes. They do give you the drill diameter to use however (Good). I used a thick tumbler straw in the kitchen drawer to accomplish this, cut to length. There is a extrusion point on the bottom the ammeter needle that will contact the center post casting of the housing around the gauges. I remedied this with a couple more plastic washer shims to push it away from the housing giving the clearance needed. It actually set to deep in the housing without them. Lastly they should include a plug for the original fuel gauge instrument feed wire stud hole that is no longer used (Minor but a good idea to keep dust out of the cluster).

            I mounted the new IVR in place of the original choke/capacitor that is no longer needed. Pulled the ignition feed from the cluster barrel and wired with a new connector to the IVR, Incase I wanted to go back to original.

            They do work great and look good though, Cudos to Charger Specialties!

            142B7B32-DB56-44D1-A359-9D3C2C38AF65.jpeg

            ECAC1B1C-0309-4FFA-A41B-75D78538C6BD.jpeg
             
            Last edited: Nov 13, 2017
          • Mike69barracuda

            Mike69barracuda Well-Known Member

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            Here's my RTE Voltage Limiter I installed. My gas gauge works great.

            DSCN9907.JPG
             
          • BillGrissom

            BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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            I bought one for each early A for $30 on ebay. Seller was PinkPatty or such. Search "voltage limiter" w/ "Plymouth" to fin. The output voltage is adjustable, which helps in getting your fuel gage scaled correctly. It comes in a plastic case w/ wires, not the later silver "factory can" of the RTE shown. Since I hate mutilating factory parts, instead of bending the bi-metallic leaf inside the fuel gage, I just slipped heat shrink over to disable it.

            If anyone wants to try repairing a gage, it appears both the gages and voltage limiters have ni-chrome wire wound around bi-metal levers. The common problem is the nichrome wire breaks. You can't solder it. It appears the wires were attached to the copper studs using a pink glue which might be conductive. There are conductive epoxies today. Another thought is brazing the ni-chrome to the copper electrically. I have seen youtubes of people making small spot-welders which work to tack unusual metals together.