How to launch a manual on the street?

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MopaR&D

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I dream of some day having a manual transmission in my Duster, mostly because my family has always had automatics and I have yet to experience rowing a 4-speed (sniffle). I've seen and read plenty of stuff on launching and shifting strip-oriented cars but what about if you're not running slicks and race gearing? Do you dump the clutch and let the wheels spin until they grab, or do you feather it until you get going, or somewhere in between?

Also in the future I intend to set up the suspension for handling, can you still run drag-race suspension components like traction bars, pinion snubber, etc. and not mess up cornering ability? I'm guessing particular parts can or can't work in both road-race and drag-race setups.
 
Your right about the suspension. Some types of parts can be used in both and some can not. As far as the how to work the clutch on the street, well, all depends on the vehicle and driver. Need to get to know how the vehicle will react with a certain parts added, powerband of engine, lots of variables.

Little story, I was visting my best friend in Florida while he was at school. Second night there we talked about playing around in his 99 Mustang w/ California emissions that we have worked on for a little more then a year at the time. Abandoned parking lot was the playground. We tried air pressure, "warming" up the tires, etc etc. Only thing that worked was slipping/feathering the clutch off the line with pedal to the metal or launch at 2500 and roll into the throttle easy. Doing the second with just driving the car and learning what the car liked, 160,000 miles it would ran constant 14.30 at the track. 10 years before, Ford tested the car at 14.10 not to shabby.
 
I've always had the best results by "hating" my clutch. Hold it about 3 grand and slip the clutch while giving it more throttle. This works better on a sticky starting line than the street.
When done correctly, you'll almost feel the heat from the clutch in your left foot!
 
Just know that the whole time your clutch is letting the engine spin faster than the transmission, you are causing wear to the clutch. Keep that in mind for everyday street driving. For racing you want to keep your revs into the engine's power band as you let out the clutch. Am I correct, anyone?
 
the way I used do do it (back when I used to do things like this) get the engine up to its peak power band and when the light turns green start slipping the clutch looking for that point of maximum traction and power (when the tires start slipping in a car or when the front wheel starts floating on a bike) keep your RPM's up when the clutch is all the way out SHIFT and do it again (you will beat faster vehicles burn out a lot of clutches and break things)
 
Pinion snubber, SS springs, softer compound tires like M/T sportsman or E/T streets will get you to hook nicely.
If you are running a 4 spd, you will definitely want to tie the drivers side of the engine down with a torque strap like Mancini's carries because the 4 spd puts alot of strain on the motor mounts if not.

I am running all of this with 3.23 gears and it hooks like mad although I am mini tubbed and have 12 in tire tread width.

I do have some trouble with my clutch handling the horsepower and i get some slippage when I really romp on it hard, but I usually have zero issues out of the hole although I am not drag racing the car.

It handles pretty good for skinnies in front, no sway bars, but I have large diameter torsion bars which really helps immensely.
 
Its just getting to know your car and what It can do. I like to drop the clutch at 2700 RPM on the street because if I let it get above 2700 RPM and try drop the clutch then my car's tires just spin....your not going anywhere if you don't have traction. Basicly I like to put as much power as I can to the ground without losing traction.
 
Its just getting to know your car and what It can do. I like to drop the clutch at 2700 RPM on the street because if I let it get above 2700 RPM and try drop the clutch then my car's tires just spin....your not going anywhere if you don't have traction. Basicly I like to put as much power as I can to the ground without losing traction.



Thats what I do. I bring it up to 2500 then give it as much gas as quickly as it ill take it with out getting tire spin. It just takes a little practice getting the gas down and the clutch out with out getting tire spin.
 
I've seen and read plenty of stuff on launching and shifting strip-oriented cars but what about if you're not running slicks and race gearing? Do you dump the clutch and let the wheels spin until they grab, or do you feather it until you get going, or somewhere in between?
There is no way to answer this question. It all depends on the car. I used to street race Pontiac A-bodies (GTOs) in the late '70s, and the first time I got into an 'incident", I did just what my older friend and mentor did with his '68 Chevelle. I wound up my GTO to about 3800 rpm and dumped the clutch. Fortunately the car was factory with 3.90 gears (and not a higher ratio), and I didn't grenade the entire thing...I only destroyed the transmission. I didn't take into consideration that my friends Chevelle had the 396 removed and a 13.1, 327 cid with 4.56 gears was installed specifically for racing on the street. In my situation, Pontiac 400s make incredible amounts of torque just off idle, and I learned the hard way that all I needed to do with that cars weight and gearing was to bring the car just off idle, let out the clutch normally, and as smoothly as possible floor it. That way I avoided wheel hop, and shocking the drivetrain, and the second that the weight was rolling, it would hook and get gone. Sure the Chevys would jump me off the line, (which really bothered me at first), but I'd blow by them in 3rd like they were standing still.
Your combination will dictate how you launch. In my Dart; (Superstock Hemi 4-speed, 340 stroker, 4.56 spool, Superstock springs, 2900-ish lbs) it is much differrent. Rev high, burn the clutch, the second you feel hookup, dump, and go. If you race a 4-speed you will replace MANY clutches. They are like oil... Used and replaced.
 
I don't personally understand why you would want to do this on the street any way. I used to be young and loved displaying how much power my car or motorcycle had on the street. Then after acquiring 14 pts and I don't remember how many $ in tickets in one year, I decided I'd leave my speed for the track. I can tell you from experience that unsafe start, reckless display of speed, and other such tickets will definately help to raise your insurance rates and put a serious strain on finances to go towards your car.
 
I don't personally understand why you would want to do this on the street any way. I used to be young and loved displaying how much power my car or motorcycle had on the street. Then after acquiring 14 pts and I don't remember how many $ in tickets in one year, I decided I'd leave my speed for the track. I can tell you from experience that unsafe start, reckless display of speed, and other such tickets will definately help to raise your insurance rates and put a serious strain on finances to go towards your car.

He didn't say he was going to do anything on the street. I said that is where I did it. In my defense, it was a different time... One of our Sheriffs rolled a '55 on it's side on mainstreet when he was a kid.
 
He didn't say he was going to do anything on the street. I said that is where I did it. In my defense, it was a different time... One of our Sheriffs rolled a '55 on it's side on mainstreet when he was a kid.

The title of the thread is "How to launch a manual on the street?"

I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, just pointing it out.
 
Guys I'm not street racing here, and I'm not stupid. I've had my license for three years now and haven't gotten a single traffic violation because I don't try to show off in places where I know there are cops (cops around here are DICKS). To tell you the truth I probably will "street" race sometime in my life but only if it's in a place FAR from pedestrians and traffic and whatnot. I will try to take it to the track as much as possible but that ain't exactly free or easy to get to.

Back on topic thanks for the info guys, all that stuff makes sense. When I do put in a 408 Magnum (~500 horse), 5-speed McLeod (if it's good when it comes out), and 3.91:1 SG 8-3/4" rear I'll have to figure out what works best for the car. That's several years in the future though so for now I'll try to work with my 904 the best I can...:sad8:
 
That's several years in the future though so for now I'll try to work with my 904 the best I can...:sad8:
don't feel bad about having an auto- I loved the built 727/2500 stall in my 340 Duster because it launched perfectly every time (and I can't say the same thing about my 6spd AWD Stealth lol )
 
every car is different...gonna have to figure out what it likes...and "hooking" on the street so to speak doesnt really happen
 
I agree with Mshred, Hooking hard, I don't believe I have ever experienced on the street. Too many things working against you. gravel, slick roads(oily), **** sticking to your tires. Best thing I have found thru costly expense is rolling out 2 about 16-1800 r.p.m.'s and pedaling or feathering the gas pedal while maintaining as much traction as possible. dropping the clutch at 25-3500 will only break **** or roast your tires,and that doesn't win races. just thru experience, it works for me. This takes alot of experience and practise. some guys are really good at it, I am still learning about racing 4 spd's after 5 years. Automatics were fun and easy, takes a real man to bracket race 4 spd.'s.......... lol....
 
Drove and street raced, ya I said it, BB B bodies over the years all with 4 speeds and it was trail and error to figure out how much gas was too much and how much was just right. Racing at the track was simple since you knew the asphalt, traction compound and temp. so you could repeat yourself. On the street I'd usually snap her up to 2500-3000 (heavy cars) and drop her then play touchy feely with the throttle till you felt the ladder bars make her hook, the front end come up ,then foot in the carb and start grabbing more gears. This is my first A body and automatic, got a soft spot for BB's, and she's a far simpler launch once ya got the engine/converter/tranny/gears matched so one ain't overpowering the other.
 
If you want to learn how to drive with a clutch, the Car Talk guys had a good suggestion. Go to a parking lot and try to start moving without using the gas pedal, just slipping the clutch. Also practice starting uphill in a place where people won't drive right up behind you, like they do around here while texting and putting on makeup. Unless you like replacing clutches; then rev and dump.
 
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