How to tell the difference between....

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petkos

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OK...

Let me preface this thread by saying that I am totally new to playing with MoPars so my knowledge is small and my questions will be many over the coming months.

Whats the easiest way to tell the difference between a 170 and a 225 slant six?

I'm shopping for a replacement engine for my 1963 Valiant and I would like to know the best ways onsite when I get to my destination so I won't buy the wrong one. Its my plan to totally rebuild which ever motor I buy before I put it in.

Since my Valiant has a 170/ 3spd manual, I am thinking that I will have to make a number of changes to make a later model/year engine fit. I have a line on a mid 80's 225 from a D100 truck and read in one of the threads about changing the oil pan. Is this because of the clearences for the frame is in a different position? Do the engine blocks change over the years or should my manual tranny bolt right up?

Since I'll be at the point of engine and trans removal anyway, let me ask about rebuilding the trans to become a 4 speed with the shifter on the column? Would it b possible to add a 4th gear and still keep the reverse on the same shifter or should I put reverse on a separate stick?

Looking forward to reading your responses.

Peter
 
Most people judge by the length of the short water hose between the top of the water pump and bottom of the head: short is 225, really short is 170 (not sure about 198 ). Going by the block casting# is better. There is also a stamp behind the alternator bracket.

At least w/ automatic trannys, there was a change ~1967 where the hole in the crank for the torque converter became bigger. You must install a $20 spacer ring (Charrlie_S here sells) to use a later engine. I think there are other differences in the engine crank hole between auto and manual trannys, like the hole needs to be deeper for a manual pilot bearing. Read up, I have never dealt with manuals. I doubt one could convert a 3-spd manual to 4-spd. If so, 4-spds wouldn't be priced like gold.
 

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