Hurst mounting torque

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66Valiant528

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I did a clutch and can't find any bolt torque specs for my Competition Plus 4 mechanism. The pdf from Holley said tighten securely....I do recall the bolts were tight. This is a B Plymouth btw.
Thanks in advance.

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i've never torqued them, i did tighten them up tight, with 3/8 drive ratchet . just food for thought
 
I always slather copper anti-sieze on the threads and under the head of those screws when I assemble them. I've had a couple that flat would not come apart. Just a suggestion.
 
Whoa hang on
Those Screws are supposed to have conically shaped star washers on them, and since they are Allen sockets, you cannot overtighten them without stripping the sockets.
Without the washers and/or without a locking agent they WILL come loose, not good. I did not say "may come loose"
I use Blue Loc-tite on the screw threads in either case, and a light smear of oil on the aluminum receiver cups, with or without the washers; cuz almost nothing is worse than a falling-apart shifter , when you are 500 miles from your toolbox.
The light oil-smear in the cup is to allow the screw-head to rotate easier so that you don't strip the allen sockets. I have also used a very thin smear of anti-seize in the cups.
In both cases, try hard to not let the Loc-tite become polluted, and if you use Loc-tite, then, after it sets, you will need heat to unlock those screws atta later date; else you will tear the sockets out.
 
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I'm talking the shifter mechanism itself not the adapter plate with the Allen heads. Sorry about the confusion. The shifter has 2 bolts. A 7/16 and a 3/8 maybe or 1/2 + 7/16. Service manual and holley directions basically say tight. I'm probably overthinking it as usual.
Those Allen's are blue loctited in. I actually lost 1 once. Shifts better when it's not swinging around!
 
You can come up with a torque figure for the size and thread pitch of the fastener if you know the grade.

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Ya. I'm just concerned that torquing it to those numbers will make the shifter difficult to move. I would think theres a solid tube inside the mechanism that prevents overtorquing but I'm not sure. Thanks to all. I'll make the bolts "tight" and check them in a week or so.
 
From the 1965 FSM

55 ft lb on the 7/16 pivot bolt
30 ft lb on the 3/8 bottom bolt
Pretty consistent with the dry torque on the grade 5 side of the chart I posted.
 
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