1. scuba0331

    scuba0331 Well-Known Member

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    Anybody have any familiarity with McLeod’s hydraulic clutch set up? I was thinking of using it on my 1974 Duster 360 4-Speed. I am not done with the car but I've heard a lot of people are having issues with TTI headers and the Z-bar. I thought the hydraulic clutch would be a possible solution.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. fstfish66

    fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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    hyd set up works great,, you will love it ,, i have a tilton hyd set up no clearance problems at all
    but i hear its getting pricy now
     
  3. Nitrous340Dart

    Nitrous340Dart Well-Known Member

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    I did one for a customer in a 65 dart 360 Mag motor way back, probably 5-6 years ago and I didn't like the pedal pressure at all, felt like you were driving a Honda. Install way really easy and clean, it took about 15-20 min to bleed it though. I might of just had a air stuck in a bad spot. It seemed to work fine just had a real light mushy pedal that didn't give you any feed-back on what the clutch was doing...
    Just my .02$
     
  4. Spook50

    Spook50 Hot-headed NCO

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    I'm curious about going this route as well. I'm converting from an A904 to an A833OD in my slanted '74 Duster and will (a few years down the road) be installing a big block. I'd like to go hydro so I can save myself the hassle of trying to find all the linkage parts and beefing up the Z bar mount so I can use a 10" clutch. My problem is that I don't want to lose the feedback that a mechanical linkage would give me. Though I am more used to driving newer, hydraulic clutch vehicles so I guess it wouldn't be too much of an adjustment for me to get used to a hydro clutch in my Duster.
     
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    • fstfish66

      fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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      i love it in mine,,,center force clutch,,,works nice,,
       
    • lilcuda

      lilcuda Well-Known Member

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      Can you elaborate on this? I've heard that the McLeod hyd TOB doesn't work with Centerforce clutches. Do you have part numbers?
       
    • fstfish66

      fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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      yes i have heard the same,,, i use a tilton bearing,,,same bearing they use today in nascar,,,i am also looking in to the new tiltons and mc loed bearing for my up and comming tremec conversion,,,,you can use a fork,, in stead of the bearing and just use a hyd slave cylinder, to move the fork,,no Z bar needed,, plenty of info on that on this board,,if you want to eliminate the Z bar and use a center force clutch,,,
       
    • Duster

      Duster Well-Known Member

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      Here is my set up works great.

      Robert

      Final master.jpg

      Final slave 1.jpg

      final slave 02.jpg

      Final slave top view.jpg
       
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      • fstfish66

        fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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        nice pics,, is the fork from the car or from the vehicle the slave cylinder came from??? cant see how it attaches to the fork,,, did you kake the bracket for the slave cyl ?? and what is the slave from ?? thanks
         
      • Duster

        Duster Well-Known Member

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        The fork is from the car it was cut to fit. Master and slave that I used from my note are:

        Clutch Slave cylinder
        NAPA-Item#: UP 37681\

        Price: $16.69
        Bore Size:11/16"
        Caution Statement:Not to be Used With Petroleum-Based Products.
        Features & Benefits:Application Engineered to Meet or Exceed Original Equipment Design & Quality.
        Line Thread Size:M10x1
        Rubber Component Material:Rubber Components are Made from EPDM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene-Monomer) & SBR (Styrene-Butadiene-Rubber).

        Clutch master cylinder

        Nissan - Pick up '86 to '97 2.4L & 3L
        - Pathfinder '87 to '95 2.4L & 3L
        - 200 SX '87 to '88 3L

        Robert
         
      • fstfish66

        fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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        KOOL thanks,,what type of fluid do you use,,,and do you know the application of the slave??? ill see if i can cross the numbers on rock auto .com
         
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        • mullinax95

          mullinax95 Well-Known Member

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          Duster,

          Was it hard to get cylinder to work with the clutch pedal in the car?
           
        • '64 Cuda

          '64 Cuda Well-Known Member

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          Is the slave mounted upside down? How hard was it to bleed? How is the pedal feel compared to stock? It looks like it might be a good solution.
           
        • Duster

          Duster Well-Known Member

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          If it was mounted upside down I don't think you could bleed it. I don't remember the application for the slave but you could get it from NAPA. My first set up I was missing 1/32" to have the pressure plate releasing the clutch then I figure what dia of piston that I needed for the extra travel and went in the backcounter to find what was required and forgot to ask the application. I have a McLeod twin disc and it's a pleasure to drive. You have to be careful when setting up the linkage from the pedal to the master. It wasn't hard but you have to be careful as you don't want over or under travel plus you want to push in straight line as much as possible but to me it was well worth the effort I will never have it the old way.
           
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          • MopaR&D

            MopaR&D Nerd Member FABO Gold Member

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            Cool, I'm thinking about that too when I do a 4-speed OD conversion. How much did the whole setup cost you?
             
          • Duster

            Duster Well-Known Member

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            Elbow grease and less than $100 Canadian including steel line, fluid there is really no cost to it, but if you notice I made the set up with the drive train next to the car before installing that is great help. I made the first set up with a spare bell I had since Keisler had mine. If I remember right the threaded bolt hole weren't the same on my bellhousing so I had to change it but this was the first set up. I like the second one better since it's got the shorter fork and when it's on the hoist if you don't know you probably won't notice.

            Robert

            Duster Slave 1.jpg

            Duster Slave.jpg
             
          • fstfish66

            fstfish66 Well-Known Member

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            the shorter fork wont travel as far,,and will require more pedal/slave pressure
             
          • sweatybetty

            sweatybetty Well-Known Member

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            id be worried about boiling fluid with that slave so close to the header pipe
             
          • mguner

            mguner How many is too many?

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            Checked on the parts at my local NAPA store and the total new for both slave and master was right at $40! NOt bad at all. It does look like the bleeder on the slave needs to be kicked upwards a bit but I would need to see one installed on the Nissan to be sure since I don't know how the passage is drilled. I found the 95 Escort slave to be designed correctly as far as clocking of the line, mounting holes and bleeder but don't know if it will fit length wise. It is also about twice as much as the Nissan unit.

            [​IMG]

            or the 1.9 version
            [​IMG]

            or the 95 Mazda 626
            [​IMG]

            the 95 Nissan Altima unit looks like it has potential too at only $24
            [​IMG]


            this unit for the 88 Nissan Stanza looks like it may work and is only$18 but not as commonly stocked.

            [​IMG]

            this Honda Civic unit is only $14 but looks like the bleeder may tuck in too close.
            [​IMG]
             
          • racingsnake440

            racingsnake440 Well-Known Member

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            I used the Nissan pick up master cylinder with the matching slave cylinder and have had no bother in the 3 yrs 30000 miles it's been on.
             
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            • mguner

              mguner How many is too many?

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              Once you got it bled I'm sure.... Don't fancy the thought of having to remove it or turn the car upside down to bleed it though. I traded back the P/U style for the 95 Altima unit which has the same bore and length and has the bleeder clocked properly and in an easy access location. It takes a banjo type hose so I found the front brake hose from a 95 200SX will do the job nicely allowing the flex part of the equation between body and drivetrain and giving a couple of places you can use the clip brackets to anchor it if needed.


              [​IMG]

              [​IMG]

              [​IMG]
               
            • Duster

              Duster Well-Known Member

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              Hi Guy's

              This is what I have in my note for parts

              28 juillet/06
              Clutch Slave cylinder
              NAPA-Item#: UP 37681\
              Modern-EW155127

              Price: $16.69
              Bore Size:11/16"
              Caution Statement:Not to be Used With Petroleum-Based Products.
              Features & Benefits:Application Engineered to Meet or Exceed Original Equipment Design & Quality.
              Line Thread Size:M10x1
              Rubber Component Material:Rubber Components are Made from EPDM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene-Monomer) & SBR (Styrene-Butadiene-Rubber).

              Clutch master cylinder

              Nissan - Pick up '86 to '97 2.4L & 3L
              - Pathfinder '87 to '95 2.4L & 3L
              - 200 SX '87 to '88 3L

              This set up work fine for me the clutch assembly is McLeod twin disk it feels like any other hyd set up easy to bleed.

              Robert
               
            • srduster340

              srduster340 Well-Known Member

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              I have a complete setup from a late 80's-90's Ram truck I might to use in my '71 Duster. The only thing I don't care for is the plastic fluid line. I also have a cable setup from a Mitsubishi truck. I'm not sure which one I'll use but I prefer the cable.
               
            • 68383GTS

              68383GTS Well-Known Member

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              What year nissan master and slave cylinder?What engine and tranny combo do you have?
               
            • cudaspaz

              cudaspaz Well-Known Member

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              By beefing up the Z-bar mount, are you talking about that steel bracket to convert auto to 4 spd that goes on the outter portion of the drivers frame rail near the wheel?
               
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