I Have a situation

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6

63TOAD

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I have a 66 Valiant ragtop. My goal is to run in the 14's.
I have a 360 (.040 over)
Dr Dif 3.55 sure grip
Eddy intake
Eddy 1405 carb (600cfm)
Bullet cam
Engine built by Carolina Machine Engines
Engine is supposed to produce 365 HP
with headers and a 750 (cfm carb)
I have stock 273 manifolds
Running Cooper 235-60-14 tires.
Best ET so far is 16.3
Any suggestions on how to get this car in the 14 sec
range will be greatly appreciated.
 
Hooking up OK?

Manual or auto trans?

I'd replace the 273 manifolds for sure.
 
You would benefit from a 2500 stall converter if you're running an automatic. And get rid of those manifolds for sure! 65'
 
I put a "Teener" in the 13's in my 65 Barracuda, it's listed in the 13 sec combo's, my suggestion would be put a set of D-Dart headers on it, and go
 
Not enough details. Which "Eddy" intake? Edelbrock

What cam? The cam might be big enough by itself that the exhaust is a cork

Transmission? Stick? auto? Stock converter? Are the tires spinning or is it bogging out of the chute?

Tune-up / timing goes a very long way between taking the dog out of the dog.

Assuming it's hooking up and maybe even bogging low end, I'd say

Better manifolds, you don't even need headers. But I'm not familiar enough with early A to know what manifolds fit

Better exhaust, what do you have now?

Higher stall converter if you have an auto, and IF it's the typical truck / van core we seem to find will have about an 1800 RPM stall

But as earlier more details

What are the cam specs and where is it degreed?
What intake
What transmission
Do you know what the timing cuve/ total timing is?
 
should be easy to get into the 14's with that car. i know the rag top is a little heavier but my 64 valiant with a pretty stockish 78 360 went 14.1 in the quarter..

it was a stock 78 360
performer intake
comp 268h cam
stock electronic ign with re-curved dist
600 holley
stock 273 manifold that really choked it with a 2" dual exhaust system..
904 with manual valve body.
converter wasn't anything special.. stockish. maybe a stock high stall..
8 3/4 rear with 3.55 sure grip.
some regular passenger car tire. 205/70-14. aired them down and it hooked good..
suspension was a mess..lol.
 
Post your E.T. slip so we can see where the problem lies. It's a HUGE problem. Not picking on your project, trying to help. I ran 15.9's with a 100% bone stock 318 2bbl auto with 2.94 gears in a B-body (dual exhaust). Just giving you an idea on how far your E.T. is off.
Again, if you post the E.T. slip, we can look at the 60 ft, mph, etc.
63TOAD said:
I have a 66 Valiant ragtop. My goal is to run in the 14's.
I have a 360 (.040 over)
Dr Dif 3.55 sure grip
Eddy intake
Eddy 1405 carb (600cfm)
Bullet cam
Engine built by Carolina Machine Engines
Engine is supposed to produce 365 HP
with headers and a 750 (cfm carb)
I have stock 273 manifolds
Running Cooper 235-60-14 tires.
Best ET so far is 16.3
Any suggestions on how to get this car in the 14 sec
range will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
You need a 750 carb, you need either 340 exhaust manifolds or headers. The 340's will fit in an early a body with less hassle than the d450's or tti's. Not sure what trans you are running but I would guess 4 speed with the 3:55s. Also go to the FBO website and read up on timing. You want as much inital advance as your motor can take, but do not want it to exceed 35 degrees advanced. They make special plates that help in this .
 
.2601 reaction time
60 ft-2.3901
330 ft-4.906
1/8-10.54
1/8 mph-68.12
1000 ft-13.66
1/4 et-16.36
mph -80.76
 
...................

time slips.jpg
 
63TOAD, can you describe your run; how much tire spin, about where on the track was the 1-2 shift made and what RPM? Somehow you were supposedly over a second quicker to 330 feet than abodyjoe, then completely fell off before the 660 foot mark. Either your numbers posted are wrong, or it's laying down bad in that range, or you spun the tires bad on the 1-2 shift.
Your car should be hanging with abodyjoe in the very low 14 second range.
 
Last edited:
j par said:
80 miles per hour is saying a lot.
Click to expand...
80 mph says he has about 125 hp. My bone stock 318 2bbl did 84 mph.

To the OP.
  • You have 2 spark plug wires missing
  • Your throttle is only coming open 1/8 of the way
  • Your ignition timing is so far off it pings so bad it sounds like a diesel, and people are asking you if it's a 1st gen you put in there
My point is, you are so far off, your problem is LARGE.... HUGE.... and should be very obvious.
 
Bobzilla said:
63TOAD, can you describe your run; how much tire spin, about whete on the track was the 1-2 shift made and what RPM? Somehow you were supposedly over a second quicker to 330 feet than abodyjoe, then completely fell of before the 660 foot mark. Either your numbers posted are wrong, or it's laying down bad in that range, or you spun the tires bad on the 1-2 shift.
Your car should be hanging with abodyjoe in the very low 14 second range.
Click to expand...
80 mph says it all. No power. gained a lowsy 12 mph the last 1/8. ran out of fuel? could be a hundred things. but that mph isn't good if he had a 318 2bbl. This should be an easy find and fix. He will know it when he finds it
 
Last edited:
Unless the cam is 100% flat and the exhaust so restricting it's going through like a half inch hole?
He should be sipping a cup of tea and waving to the fans as he doesn't 14.5...
 
Plug your info into any one of these calculators and it will tell you that your engine is down on horsepower. As others have stated, needs some serious tuning / assessment of parts. Your desire to run in the 14's requires fixing more than 1 or 2 things it seems.

ET-MPH-HP Calculator
 
Last edited:
Oh geez Toad, the 60’ time is in the toilet!
Those Cooper tires are not helping at all. There good drivers. I like’em in my drivers. But not the track.
Swap them out for better stickier rubber.

What are the cam specs? You may need some more stall in the converter.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Oh geez Toad, the 60’ time is in the toilet!
Those Cooper tires are not helping at all. There good drivers. I like’em in my drivers. But not the track.
Swap them out for better stickier rubber.

What are the cam specs? You may need some more stall in the converter.
Click to expand...
 
Lots of tire spin off the line
more at 1-2 shift.
I just put it in drive and left it shift.
Not sure but I think it shifted around
4K
 
63TOAD said:
I have a 66 Valiant ragtop. My goal is to run in the 14's.
I have a 360 (.040 over)
Dr Dif 3.55 sure grip
Eddy intake
Eddy 1405 carb (600cfm)
Bullet cam
Engine built by Carolina Machine Engines
Engine is supposed to produce 365 HP
with headers and a 750 (cfm carb)
I have stock 273 manifolds
Running Cooper 235-60-14 tires.
Best ET so far is 16.3
Any suggestions on how to get this car in the 14 sec
range will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

We'll start with the "supposed to produce 365 HP" first. Was the test engine the exact same build as yours, or did they use yours as the "supposed to" engine? No disrespect, it's a selling point, and a good one, read any disclaimer it may have and get a good laugh like I did-no way was my little 318 gonna put out 417 HP and I knew that before it ever got on the ground for a rebuild.
OK, that being said, we can start back where you have Carolina Machine Engines as the builder. Can you get your hands on the original spec sheet? It will tell you a lot of things done, and yet to be done.
Did they dyno it when it was done, at the crank or at the ground?
Bullet cam? Seems a little short of lift/duration/etc. The 273 manifolds (exhaust I'm guessing, and why?) would have to go, as would the 600 cfm, and the heads. If you want to keep from spending a few dollars more you could keep the Edelbrock intake, and match a set of heads from Edelbrock up with it, and actually get a 750 cfm to sit on top. A decent good set of hedders from Hedman, and a good cam-maybe one across the counter or a ClaySmith custom or some of the other grinds, and the difference felt would be immediate. (remember, the bigger the cam the more you might need more vacuum for your brakes if you have power brakes.)
If you mentioned it I didn't catch it, but the ignition system is...stock? Or a good aftermarket? I've known a coil to rob someone of at least better running, better response time. Some ignition/distributors mimic stock applications with some flashy color schemes, others are for real better and don't have the flashy-and thats how I have seen them picked out, and the dollar value.)
The rear end sounds solid, gives you room to go a different direction with gear ratio's, have you checked to see if maybe a brake was hanging a little? Had to ask.
I'm a little confused with it as it sits. Stock should of gotten you a better trip time.
Why not shoot for the 12's? If ya make 13.9, 13.5, 13.1 and your happier than you'd be with 14.5, then thats a win.
Work in progress is satisfied with what it is now, and what it will be when you get there, cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap, and it's always a work in progress, because there is always a next level, and you get to keep the parts from "what it was".....life is grand when you own a Mopar.....still seems it should pull better than it is as is...Luck, and a few dollars more.
 
To avoid multi posts, a quote and then a separate post to reply.... just press the reply button, wait! Then the post you clicked reply on will appear. Reply under the auote tags, not inbetween theme and it will look like this post.

63TOAD said:
Lots of tire spin off the line
more at 1-2 shift.
I just put it in drive and left it shift.
Not sure but I think it shifted around
4K
Click to expand...
Now where getting my some where! Lots-O-tire spin has got to be stopped. Do yourself a favor and spend a bit of money on used wheels for some better tires like a drag radial.

Do you launch the car at a specific rpm? Or do you just slam the pedal down? A softer application of the gas pedal to reduce or actually better, no spin, will be very effective on reducing your 60’ time.

Hopefully with better tires that won’t spin on you a more aggressive pedal can be applied and with luck, get that 60’ under the 2.00 second mark.

Do you have a tach? No? Get one. Shift from 1-2 & 2-3 at the same rpm. If you know where leak hp is, then shift 500 rpm above it.

And now we are on our way.....
 
Christine&Rusty said:
We'll start with the "supposed to produce 365 HP" first. Was the test engine the exact same build as yours, or did they use yours as the "supposed to" engine? No disrespect, it's a selling point, and a good one, read any disclaimer it may have and get a good laugh like I did-no way was my little 318 gonna put out 417 HP and I knew that before it ever got on the ground for a rebuild.
OK, that being said, we can start back where you have Carolina Machine Engines as the builder. Can you get your hands on the original spec sheet? It will tell you a lot of things done, and yet to be done.
Did they dyno it when it was done, at the crank or at the ground?
Bullet cam? Seems a little short of lift/duration/etc. The 273 manifolds (exhaust I'm guessing, and why?) would have to go, as would the 600 cfm, and the heads. If you want to keep from spending a few dollars more you could keep the Edelbrock intake, and match a set of heads from Edelbrock up with it, and actually get a 750 cfm to sit on top. A decent good set of hedders from Hedman, and a good cam-maybe one across the counter or a ClaySmith custom or some of the other grinds, and the difference felt would be immediate. (remember, the bigger the cam the more you might need more vacuum for your brakes if you have power brakes.)
If you mentioned it I didn't catch it, but the ignition system is...stock? Or a good aftermarket? I've known a coil to rob someone of at least better running, better response time. Some ignition/distributors mimic stock applications with some flashy color schemes, others are for real better and don't have the flashy-and thats how I have seen them picked out, and the dollar value.)
The rear end sounds solid, gives you room to go a different direction with gear ratio's, have you checked to see if maybe a brake was hanging a little? Had to ask.
I'm a little confused with it as it sits. Stock should of gotten you a better trip time.
Why not shoot for the 12's? If ya make 13.9, 13.5, 13.1 and your happier than you'd be with 14.5, then thats a win.
Work in progress is satisfied with what it is now, and what it will be when you get there, cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap, and it's always a work in progress, because there is always a next level, and you get to keep the parts from "what it was".....life is grand when you own a Mopar.....still seems it should pull better than it is as is...Luck, and a few dollars more.
Click to expand...
Careful a long-winded answer like that might make AJ thinking he's got some competition? LOL don't get him started he'll break things down to every gear every valve grind every degree of Cam! LOL
And then he'll start to explain things!
 
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