I have annoyed the car gods. Sigh!

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Remow2112

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Got my timing problem fixed, finally. So when checking the timing and final setting I had my brother rev the car in park to 5000 rpm and everything looked great. Timing mark solid as a rock engine sounded good. So I told him to let off the gas.

As soon as he did the engine backfired and died!!! Now I can't get it to start again and it seems to be back firing randomly. Sometimes out the exhaust sometime out the carb.

When I line up tdc everything looks to be right on timing marks. Pulled the rockers of and the valves all look normal and when I turn it over the rockers all seem to moved right.

Any ideas?

360
lunati 402 cam
KB 187 pistion .30 over
Stock heads.
Comp cam 942 valve springs.

Thanks,
Dan...
 
Remow2112 said:
Got my timing problem fixed, finally. So when checking the timing and final setting I had my brother rev the car in park to 5000 rpm and everything looked great. Timing mark solid as a rock engine sounded good. So I told him to let off the gas.

As soon as he did the engine backfired and died!!! Now I can't get it to start again and it seems to be back firing randomly. Sometimes out the exhaust sometime out the carb.

When I line up tdc everything looks to be right on timing marks. Pulled the rockers of and the valves all look normal and when I turn it over the rockers all seem to moved right.

Any ideas?



360
lunati 402 cam
KB 187 pistion .30 over
Stock heads.
Comp cam 942 valve springs.

Thanks,
Dan...
Click to expand...

Sounds like it's back.
What did you do to fix the timing problem?
 
Could be nothing or a Bad valve spring, bent valve, bent push rod. not the best idea to hold the engine at 5K under no load.
 
What box are you running for your ignition? I had the same thing happen to me with a msd unit. Not at 5k though. I had just pulled in to work and parked. Idling at about 800rpm it made a little pop and died. No spark no nothing. Had to get a lift home and installed the old electronics and had no problem since. It may not be your problem but thought I would throw it out there. Also just read your previous posts about your timing. Did you check to see if your dizzy is still turning?
 
Not sure if this applies, but I had a 69 Charger with a 440 that once pretty much refused to start. Would blow fireballs out of the carb and we tried everything. Finally took it somewhere and it was the condenser in the distributor. Reman piece from the part store and the condenser was bad, go figure...
 
Fire, fuel, compression.... make sure you have all of these first then try to crank it. I don't recommend revving the motor to 5k rpm.
 
What timing chain is in it? Did you verify the timing mark and distributor rotor position?
 
Are you getting plenty of sparks and backfires or just one spark every time you rlease the key from start ? That would be ballast resistor.
 
I have an MSD 6al with a 6200 chip in it, blaster 2 coil, to a stock mopar distributor. I swapped out the MSD with a spare I keep still no love and I tried the coil.

What is the issue reving to 5k? I run to 6k on the 1/4 mile pass and it is always how we check to make sure timing is not over 36 degrees. I have never had this happen though.
 
Remow2112 said:
I have an MSD 6al with a 6200 chip in it, blaster 2 coil, to a stock mopar distributor. I swapped out the MSD with a spare I keep still no love and I tried the coil.

What is the issue reving to 5k? I run to 6k on the 1/4 mile pass and it is always how we check to make sure timing is not over 36 degrees. I have never had this happen though.
Click to expand...

You have the motor under a load when you blast the 1/4 mile which is different than the motor not being under a load. You can check your timing around 2500 to 3500 RPM. No need to rev it to 5000 RPM to check that. It should be "all in" way before that unless I'm missing something.
 
The problem with free revving like that (meaning no real resistance) is that parts that normally would be fine can get out of sorts. Which is why I ask about the timing chain. It sounds to me like the chain jumed teeth or the cam gear's loose or something.
 
Checked the compression and it is 185-195 on all 8. So It is not valves. Double checked the timing marks and the valves. On TDC the rotor is on 1 and the rockers on the #1 cyl valves are closed.

Changed the carb out to my trusty 650 Demon VS. Same problems. All that is left is the ignition system.

ARRRRRGGGGHHH!

Thanks for the info on reving. The reason I check up that high is because the first 360 I ever built I checked up to 3k and set it at 36. On the highway to the drag strip I started blowing smoke. Tear it apart I had broken the rings on 4 pistons. Rebuild the motor and my friend (who has a ton of mopar experience) checks my timing all the way to 6k and points out that around 5k another 15 degrees on timing is coming on and I detonated the engine to death. Ever since I check the timing with a quick blast to 5 or 6k.

When you are running a free flowing exhaust system it is very hard to hear pinging.
 
I go to 4500. If it's still climing at that point I know I need to do work in the distributor. It's not the rpms, but rather the fast change in them that can hurt things. So if you're going to rev it, bring them back down slowly rather than letting off.
 
I don't have any idea how this could of happened other then I did not have the oil pump shaft fully seated. The distributor was 180 out. I pulled the dist out rotated in 180 and she fired right up.

Is it possible that the gear spun on the oil pump driveshaft?

Does anyone know if the sealed power oil pump driveshaft is hardened or not I can't find the info anywhere?


Dan...
 
Yhe only thing that can jump ecactly 180 degrees is the drive tip of the distributer in the oil pump driver slot. Centrifugal force seperated the 2 parts which means the distributer hold down was waaaaay to loose. Think about it... when it sat back down after the backfire it could only land right or wrong. Scares me though, loose parts and 5000 rpms can kill.
 
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