famous bob
mopar misfit
Hey y’all, so the other day I was doing valve cover gaskets and clumsily broke off this little ground that goes to the passenger side head. Any ideas on how to fix this?
u kidding ? april fools is over !
I messed up bad
- Thread starter ScampLA360
- Start date
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u kidding ? april fools is over !
It sure is so you need to quit lookin in the mirror. LMAO
Maybe I'm a little bit old and grumpy. I turned 63 yesterday, and it's a bit of a ***** slap to my face. One of My sons is into tuners, and off roaders, and the other is a computer scientist who'll help us get to Mars and beyond. The neighborhood kid with the old Duster is my only chance at Mopar salvation. YR, you've been a big help to me over the years. You and Rumblefish are a big reason I've chosen the parts for my current, and maybe last, 408 build. RustyRatRod has a wheelbarrow full of knowledge, too, but I have to filter his attitude through his expertise. Of course, this is all from an old Gator's perspective. I really do appreciate the old members' practical experience to the young guy's analog cars. Their ain't many of these old cars left, and the new generation of kids doesn't seem to be interested.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Dont have a mirror , last time I looked the mirror broke !--------??
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Actually I'm gonna take you to task for this. This statement is NOT true
WHY?
Assuming this is a bone stock as built "in the day" grounding from engine to frame was TERRIBLE and MINIMAL. There were only 1 or 2 small ground PATHS from engine to body.
WHERE IS THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR grounded? To body.
WHERE SHOULD IT be grounded?.......To the BATTERY
WHERE is the battery grounded?............To the engine...
Can you get from "the body" to "the battery" if there is no engine -to- body ground?
"Not very well and not without some voltage drop"
WHERE ARE THE LIGHTS, the heater motor, the lighter, the (name your favorite high current drain) grounded? Mostly the BODY.
You need more of and larger ground straps from battery to body or from engine to body. The factory ones were barely adequate, BARELY. With no added high load accessories like winches, fans, pumps, stereo, etc etc
Point taken. Definitely better to have it. But a car could run without it. 
I'm a fan of good grounds.
I added grounds all over my car. From the battery to the core support, from the fuel gauge sending unit to the chassis, and from the instrument panel to the dash frame.
I'm a fan of good grounds.
I added grounds all over my car. From the battery to the core support, from the fuel gauge sending unit to the chassis, and from the instrument panel to the dash frame.
Lack of a good ground can cause damage. I knew a man that only had negative cable going from the battery to engine block. That cable had a bad connection and the electricity went through his transmission shifter cable and welded it. Did it run? Yes, but he could not shift it! Having a second ground from the engine block to the firewall is cheaper than replacing that shifter cable or other damage it could have caused!!!
I built Boeing 747's and KC-46A's for my career. There isn't any ground at 40,000 feet, so grounds are critically important. I always check my wiring for a good ground. Aircraft also have the problem of developing static electricity at altitude and speed. We use static inverters, and dissipate the charge with leads on the trailing edge of the control surfaces. I worked on submarines, too. Try to find a ground at 400 feet below the surface. A good ground on your car will help in so many ways. I always use the ground strap between the block and frame, and always clean the ground surfaces when using a ground lug.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I know I had some issues running a 4.8 amp Mallory Super Mag III and my boss had the same issues running an MSD 44 amp Mag.
You’d get a strange miss. Never the same RPM. I forget who I called but whoever it was said we needed to run a ground off both heads to the chassis because one ground wasn’t doing it.
I thought he was full of crap, but the extra ground cleaned it all up.
I’d like to know why the magneto needed that extra ground. I still ground all my big battery fired ignitions to both heads. I’m a chicken like that.
I used to be a ham radio operator and assembled my own equipment (remember Heathkits?). The mantra was "grounds, grounds, grounds!"
Our first color TV in 1967 was a Heathkit. It was the start of my electronics career. Magnetos produce a wild output on a O'scope. They need to be grounded on both sides to prevent arcing. In the aircraft world, we have no proper "ground". Everything is grounded to the airframe. It's complicated by the fact that 28 volts DC is hard enough, but the AC is 400 hertz, not 60 hertz like your house outlet. It's more efficient over short distances, but the bite is way more than 60 cycle. Ask me how I know.....
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
400hz is great stuff "for where it is." Much much lighter transformers than 60Hz. "When I was a kid" there were outfits selling WWII military surplus stuff. The catalogs did not necessarily TELL you that these were 400hz, and not useable on 60hz power
My Gramps had bought a Crocker Wheeler top training turret "for the motors." On that thing the motors were 28VDC. Only thing 120V on the thing was the box that controlled the suit heater, which was a great big rheostat control. He never used any of it, and it sat in a couple different places, "us kids" shooting down thousands of Japs and Germans. Later Dad sold it to one of the warbird people who came through Spokane
Too cool!
Cool story! It sounds like we're both drawing social security with stories this old, but I love hearing them.
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