I need some help with an old Dodge truck.

-
Wow Sir, Thank you very much.

If you dont mind i would will take some time to wrap my head around all that info and see what I can do.

I do see my self giving you a call in my future.

Thank you for your time and advice.
 
j par said:
If 12 volts were absolutely necessary somewhere it would seem like a 12 volt alternator could be tethered in as well as a 12 volt battery to run whatever needs 12 volts? A stereo?...
Click to expand...


The truck needs a full rewire so why not?

With a 12V system the owner can buy parts easy and off the shelf.

The biggest reason is the engine cranks so slow on 6V.
 
Cope said:
The truck needs a full rewire so why not?

With a 12V system the owner can buy parts easy and off the shelf.

The biggest reason is the engine cranks so slow on 6V.
Click to expand...
If the truck needs rewired, the go to 12V

FYI if you encounter a 6v system with good wiring, NAPA sells 8V batteries that helps the cranking of older cars, and will not cause any damage to 6V stuff.
 
Update.


I pulled the advance plate out of the distributer, cleaned the rust out of and off of the housing. Cleaned the plate and its edges. Replaces the old cloth jacket wire with new wire. New condenser out of (I think) a 70s mopar V8. Reset point gap.

I used the old wires, cap and rotor as I did not have replacements yet.

The spark is week bit it is there.

I sprayed some starting fluid in the carb and hit the post on the starter with 200amp +12V i was lazy and jumped the 200 amp to the coil hot post as well....

She kicked over and poped to life!

I think my jump box went into thermal over load because it was dead when I tried to hit it again. (No voltage out of the jump box)

I was using one of my MSD blaster 2 coil(s) and it was very warm... (guessing it didn't like 200 amps) :)

Gonna rebuild the carb. Hook up a gravity feed and see if I can get it to run for more than a few seconds.

If i get that lucky, then its on to fuel tank, fuel line and breaks.

I think if I get lucky I can reach this guys goal and not be over budget for once.
 
Fuel pump is shot. New one should arrive thursday. Hooked up a length of soft line as a gravity feed.

Rebuilt the carb and hit starter with jumper cables and she fired right up.

This old girl will just sit and idle until the gas runs out. Almost no smoke.

Its crazy how well it runs. Ive never seen anything like it but ive never worked on a flat head before so maybe this is normal?

I found a front disk break conversion kit for 720.00. Got that en route.

A full new glass, glass trim, glass gaskets and felts kit en route.

New Painless harness en route.

Vaccum to 12V wiper conversion en route.


Gonna need two new front wheels as these are "split rims". Not sure if they are re poped or gonna be custom yet. Anyone know?


Thats about it.

Probably new gauges?.....

Maybe radiator, unsure yet.

Is there a thermostat in that big ole water neck?

All new rubber.
Hoses, belt, lines l, ect.


What else should I be looking at on this old gal?

Thanks again for all your help and advice.
 
Good job, flatheads are simple engines, a little compression, spark and fuel they will run.
 
Thanks.

Two items I am having trouble finding on line is a new intake and a new exhaust manifolds. These ones are cracked bad. Someone has already ground on them and tried welding them so there is not a lot of room for error left and my cast iron welding skill is not the best....

Any one got a source for old dodge truck parts?

DMC is where i have been looking.
 
Cope said:
Thanks.

Two items I am having trouble finding on line is a new intake and a new exhaust manifolds. These ones are cracked bad. Someone has already ground on them and tried welding them so there is not a lot of room for error left and my cast iron welding skill is not the best....

Any one got a source for old dodge truck parts?

DMC is where i have been looking.
Click to expand...
Facebook has a page for these trucks, parts are out there.
I might be V-8 my truck, but need the numbers to see if the manifold will fit. Plus I have an extra flat head with manifolds.
 
P15-D24.com

Old Mopar flathead forum. Lots of old Dodge (and Fargo) guys there with lots of knowledge and parts.
 
Bobacuda said:
Don’t forget the original 6 volt system is positive ground. Keep the 6 V starter - 12 V will spin it and makes starting easier. I saw a kit online to convert the 6 V generator to 12 V.

There are folks using Jeep Cherokee master cylinders.
This conversion would best be done while the front end sheet metal is off.

You can wire it for 6 V (wire gauges) those wires can handle 12 V. If you wire it with 12 V wires, they will be too small for 6 V.

I put a Petronix ignition in my truck to eliminate points. I had no trouble finding brass freeze plugs (Dorman), but the big PITA is replacing the water distribution tube behind water pump.

You need to measure the head length, because there are 23” and 25” varieties.

A couple of other good sources of parts is Vintage Power Wagons and Dodge Central of Michigan.
Click to expand...
So 6v has more amps, requiring a larger gauge wire?
 
Bobacuda said:
P15-D24.com

Old Mopar flathead forum. Lots of old Dodge (and Fargo) guys there with lots of knowledge and parts.
Click to expand...
48 dodger on there if i recall is selling used parts. And vicsdodgegarage.com supplies me with what i need for my fargo
 
Happy Holidays folks.

Im making decent progress on the truck. I cleaned out the fuel system but for some reason im not picking up fuel.

Im gonna try and flood the hard line up to the pump and see if that fixes it. (Remove line at pump, pressurise tank with compressed air until fuel comes out at pump.)

It is a new "reman" pump and it is pushing air. I filled the glass bowl by hand but still no luck.



Once the fuel system is working its on to the brake system next. I started soaking all the bolts and lines with penetrating fluid today.


I have also starred soaking the exh/int manifold bolts/nuts. I dont have a good feeling about removing them. Im waiting untill the exhaust stud kit and gaskets show up before I even try and turn a nut on that rusty garbage pile...
 
It's 10F here right now. LOLOL Midnight--I'm off to bed. Good luck buddy
 
Cope said:
Happy Holidays folks.

Im making decent progress on the truck. I cleaned out the fuel system but for some reason im not picking up fuel.

Im gonna try and flood the hard line up to the pump and see if that fixes it. (Remove line at pump, pressurise tank with compressed air until fuel comes out at pump.)

It is a new "reman" pump and it is pushing air. I filled the glass bowl by hand but still no luck.



Once the fuel system is working its on to the brake system next. I started soaking all the bolts and lines with penetrating fluid today.


I have also starred soaking the exh/int manifold bolts/nuts. I dont have a good feeling about removing them. Im waiting untill the exhaust stud kit and gaskets show up before I even try and turn a nut on that rusty garbage pile...
Click to expand...
Theres a couple hidden nuts, not exactly sure where, but they can be difficult.
 
B6A49C7C-1520-4C8D-AABE-D81A54AD7D87.jpeg
107471AF-DF08-4B5C-BAFA-AE0AA1981F1F.jpeg
The hidden bolts (2) are recessed on the exhaust manifold under the carb area. Quite often the heads are rusted to crap. I had to hammer smaller sockets on mine - and the bolts snapped. It is “easier” to get to them if the inner fender has been removed. Might need to pull the wheel, as well and work through the side.

If your fuel tank is like mine, the line in the tank has has a screen filter on the end. I would try forcing air that direction first.

When I started mine after rebuilding everything, I filled the bowl on the fuel pump and the carb’s bowl. Once it started like that, the fuel pump did the rest -but don’t make my mistake…. Before I got it to work I had to figure out my fuel line in was connected to the fuel out . Not my best moment.

One photo shows it all assembled and hiding, other photo is just an exhaust manifold. The 2 on the inside are the problem children.
 
The Ole Dodge Brothers never fail to amaze me.

I been soaking the exhaust for weeks in preperation of broken studs and all kinds of havoc.

Looks like Dodge Bros used some brass alloy nuts on the exhaust.

fricking genius!!


As im twisting them im thinking,.... something is wrong. This is turning WAY to easy.

You can't tell from the out side but the inside of the thread caught my eye. It was the wrong color so I hit one on the wire wheel and wow!


I didnt take any picks but I will.

The manifolds we bought are the 22" not the 25" that we need. So if any one has a intake manifold for a 230 C.I. Six cylinder let me know.
Id like the exhaust as well but intake is more important to me at this point.



Wheel cylinders are a problem on at least two wheels so far. Bleeders are locked up and not save able.


One thing that concerns me is the bell housing looks to be cast ductile iron. Can anyone confirm this?

I want to modify it to accept a 1971 dart 4 bolt master cylinder and Im not sure about welding on it. Anyone got a way to identify cast iron vs steel?


Each day I work on this old girl, She never fails to amaze me just how much she wants to come back to life.

This truck is such a joy to work on. It makes me want to work on old tractors and such.

I spent some time doing heavy steel work and big heavy things still drag me in.
 
Are you saying weld on the bell? I've never heard of a steel bell, other than scattershields It would be cast iron of some sort.
 
That master mounts to bellhousing front side? Right beside starter?
My 1/2 ton is between steering box and transmission. No room for a dart master cylinder. I used a pt cruiser master. Jeep is the more common one used.
When i put the 360/727 in i used the pt brake booster and moved it up onto firewall.i need to change to adjustable proportioning valve to dial it in a little better but it stops good.
 
The bellhousings were notorious for cracking. Definitely cast iron.
 
Take a look at the 4 bolts that insert on the bottom of the exhaust and go into the intake manifold. They are extremely prone to snapping. Also, the areas where they screw into the intake manifold is prone to cracking.

The heat riser in my replacement exhaust manifold was gone. This caused too much heat transferring to the area of the intake below the carb. Once the engine was warm, if you shut it down, all of the gas would “boil” out of the carb, making the truck hard to restart. Gasohol made starting even worse.

I finally put a piece of thin, flat steel (about as thick as a license plate) between the two manifolds. It was a big help.

Granted, I live in South Central Texas, so a hot manifold set on a hot day is more of a problem for me than the possibility of a hot manifold set on a cold day.
 
Also, I think the Dodge Canadian 230 is 25” and the US 230 is 22”. The guys on the Pilothouse Forum would know, and one of them would probably have the manifolds you need.
 
Bobacuda said:
Take a look at the 4 bolts that insert on the bottom of the exhaust and go into the intake manifold. They are extremely prone to snapping. Also, the areas where they screw into the intake manifold is prone to cracking.

The heat riser in my replacement exhaust manifold was gone. This caused too much heat transferring to the area of the intake below the carb. Once the engine was warm, if you shut it down, all of the gas would “boil” out of the carb, making the truck hard to restart. Gasohol made starting even worse.

I finally put a piece of thin, flat steel (about as thick as a license plate) between the two manifolds. It was a big help.

Granted, I live in South Central Texas, so a hot manifold set on a hot day is more of a problem for me than the possibility of a hot manifold set on a cold day.
Click to expand...
Even in the cooler climate percolation is a problem. Heat riser stuck closed causes a lot of heat buildup, even overheating. Frost free climates can do without the heat riser.
 
Bobacuda said:
Also, I think the Dodge Canadian 230 is 25” and the US 230 is 22”. The guys on the Pilothouse Forum would know, and one of the would probably have the manifolds you need.
Click to expand...
23” and 25”. My 218 is 23”
There is a guy , on facebook selling parts. I will see if i can get you a linky.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top