I need some help...

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Ethan Morris

    Ethan Morris Member

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    As I was driving my 73 Duster around last night, I pulled into a gas station to let it cool off because it had stalled just a few minutes ago. When I started to drive off, it wanted to stall when I accelerated. It idles rough and I tried to just the carb but that didn't help. Any ideas?
     
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Blue and 15/16.
       
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      • Dana67Dart

        Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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        I think what rusty is saying...

        We need a lot more info
        Car
        Year
        Engine
        Modifications
        Has it ever done this before
        What have you changed / done to the car lately
         
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        • Ethan Morris

          Ethan Morris Member

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          1973 Plymouth Duster, 225 Slant Six, no modifications, remanufactured carb. It has ran similar to this and replacing the battery fixed it. I don't think this is the battery though.
           
        • Dana67Dart

          Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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          Have you checked...
          1. Advance
          2. Vacume leaks
          3. Idle speed
          4. If automatic in drive
          5. If automatic in nutural / park
          6. Last time plugs wires dist cap and rotor changed
          You said it got hot, could be vapor lock????
           
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          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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            Whose reman carburetor? One thing you can try is with it running and the air cleaner removed, slowly close the choke by hand and see if the engine will continue to idle with the choke almost or even closed. If it does, that's a good indicator of a vacuum leak, which will cause one to run rough. Also make sure the carburetor mounting screws are tight and the smaller screws that hold the carburetor together are also tight. They are notorious for loosening up, especially with new gaskets and often need to be retightened after a few heat cycles.
             
            Last edited: Jul 4, 2021
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            • Ethan Morris

              Ethan Morris Member

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              I will try all these things first thing in the morning, thank you. It is a UREMCO reman carb.
               
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              • Dfr360cuda

                Dfr360cuda Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.

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                ...........................
                7. Fuel filter
                8. Plugs
                9. Ballast Resister
                 
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                • halifaxhops

                  halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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                  Also check the pick up in the distributor they seem to fail when hot and ok when they cool down.
                   
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                  • volaredon

                    volaredon Well-Known Member

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                    If it runs (no matter how badly) when you release the key from "start" position, it ISN'T this.
                     
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                    • Dfr360cuda

                      Dfr360cuda Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.

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                      Unless it opens up when it gets hot
                       
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                      • Ethan Morris

                        Ethan Morris Member

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                        I let it stall and when I started it up again, it ran normally. It runs fine now.
                         
                      • volaredon

                        volaredon Well-Known Member

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                        Never had one do that. Every time I have had one blow it would start and die as soon as key was released
                         
                      • jos51700

                        jos51700 Green Bearing thread connoisseur

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                        I've had two that did that to me, and it was crap in the fuel tank blocking the pickup. Leave 'em sit, and it would float off and they'd run again, for a bit.

                        Next time it stalls, pop the air cleaner, look down the carb throat and see if gas squirts in when you work the accelerator.
                         
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                        • volaredon

                          volaredon Well-Known Member

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                          Yup had the "temporarily plugged sock in the tank" on my mom's old 5th Ave
                           
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                          • bbabody

                            bbabody New Member

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                          • bbabody

                            bbabody New Member

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                            Don't forget to make sure your heat riser is moving freely (if it's still there). If it sticks in a closed position it will cause all the issues you're seeing. Been in that situation before!!!
                             
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                            • Dave_J

                              Dave_J Well-Known Member

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                              Valves too tight?
                               
                            • TF360

                              TF360 Well-Known Member

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                              Do a Tune Up while your at it- Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor.
                               
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                              • volaredon

                                volaredon Well-Known Member

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                                and don't buy the cheapest parts available to fill the hole.... last I checked (for example) the better distributor cap (brass inserts) was only like $2 more than the cheap one (aluminum inserts) and remember Mopars don't like Delco plugs unless you want a whine in the radio.. I have never tried Delcos in a Mopar, that I didn't have to change out shortly after for this reason.
                                 
                              • jos51700

                                jos51700 Green Bearing thread connoisseur

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                                Autolites in a Neon will require you to Heli-coil the threads. Champions, man.
                                 
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                                • Killer6

                                  Killer6 Well-Known Member

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                                  Ya know, I subscribed to that for decades, but I found that conditions that created lots of dampness in the dizzy did worse long-term with brass terminals. The ionized residue in the cap is more conductive, that green haze/film/tracking can cause more f'ing grief when damp. Just sayin',..
                                  You can manically keep wiping the cap out, find ways to keep it dry in places like here in Seattle east(SW PA), or keep changing it before it's time. I'm certainly not the most senior member, but grew up & started in the automotive repair field when "plugs cap rotor points & condensor" were considered a normal annual practice. Along with a little Gumout, ign cables almost the same at one point. To think what the average teen would say to that today! Half don't even want to be bothered operating the damn things!!:realcrazy:
                                   
                                • volaredon

                                  volaredon Well-Known Member

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                                  Yeah the son of a guy I know had inherited a 79 Ford van w/a 351w. last year. I saw him a couple months ago (he's about 35ish) and he told me his van had left him stranded one day, had to have a tow truck bring it home.
                                  The 1st thing he said was that he couldn't figure out how to get codes from it.
                                  He threw all the spare parts at it that his father in law had bought for it years ago and figured out it was the ignition module box because that was the last thing he changed before he could finally get it to run. Thought putting that cap rotor wires and plugs in before he got to that point was a waste of time, was glad they were "free" at least
                                  I then asked how long since the last previous tuneup had been done, he had no idea. The van only has like 80k original miles on it. Age of parts, corrosion,etc on parts replaced wasn't even an afterthought. Codes? On a carbureted '79 anything I laughed my AZZ off when I heard him say that.

                                  And people wonder why I like driving a 78 sport fury this time of year. And am working on a 85 slant 6 powered pickup for my next daily driver to replace my 99 dakota..
                                  I'd so much rather have those vehicles back daily in the shop at work than the overcomplicated overpriced plastic junk I have to work on all the time.
                                   
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                                  • clark lawson

                                    clark lawson Member

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                                    Replace the coil if you haven’t done already . Good luck
                                     
                                  • Killer6

                                    Killer6 Well-Known Member

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                                    Yeah, & that applies to almost everything electrical, especially & including the battery.
                                     
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