I put it into gear and it dies.

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the spacer and gasket are good, I just had the carb off to re-do the transfer slot adjustment.
the carburetor is already a remanufactured one that was put on in 2008 that I rebuilt because It had a bunch of oxidation all inside it.
the thing is just tired. I'm thinking of getting this thing at my local discount store.View attachment 1715850492 View attachment 1715850493
Before you take that jump I would try to verify that you have a carburetor problem. Then decide how you want to correct it. You may have a plugged idle circuit rendering the idle mixture screws useless. See if it’s lean at idle by forcing it richer with a hands over the carburetor choke test. It won't cost you a dime.
 
Add an intake, gaskets and throttle/ kickdown linkage and you still dont know the condition of timing chain. In it for a grand. go get a wrecker 2 bbl that matches yours. 50 bucks.
yeah, I might try and go get one of my buddy's 500 holleys. those circle track 2 barrels. he loves them and has a few. (i will have to rebuild them of course, but at least its designed better than the one I got.)

Well anyways, I just put the motor on TDC and the timing mark on the balancer is accurate. I put a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole and watched it then I took it out and looked down the hole with a flashlight to see the piston to verify that its at the top.
 
and the mechanical advance in the distributor works because the rotor springs back after I move it.
 
yeah, I might try and go get one of my buddy's 500 holleys. those circle track 2 barrels. he loves them and has a few. (i will have to rebuild them of course, but at least its designed better than the one I got.)

Well anyways, I just put the motor on TDC and the timing mark on the balancer is accurate. I put a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole and watched it then I took it out and looked down the hole with a flashlight to see the piston to verify that its at the top.
PXL_20220109_231310107.jpg
PXL_20220109_231257628.jpg
 
Either the timing light is AFU, the timing marks are wrong, the cam is "slipped" timing, or you are making some mistake.

Regardless of what the book says for initial/ idle timing, those will run at TDC
Yup. Even 5 degrees initial is usually advanced. What was the spec? 3? It mightta been 5. I've seen some late 70s stufff at 0 and even negative.
 
Those of you going by this fellow’s name, its no longer a slanty. Hes trying to dial in a teener.
should change your name, btw.
“The member formerly known as shittyslantsix”

i honestly think you should pull carb and get it sorted out. Without a good tuneable carb you will be chasing timing forever.
Known good carb comes to mind…
Maybe just "shitty" LOL j/k man. You know we love you.

Traitor. LOL
 
Right there in front of my very eyes, a vacuum leak. On the tree with the red caps. Open port. Its broke off. You wear glasses?
well yes; I knew it was there but I did not care because I didn't think it'd make that much of a difference.
but i'm now thinking it does.
 
well yes; I knew it was there but I did not care because I didn't think it'd make that much of a difference.
but i'm now thinking it does.
they screw in right? i have a pipe plug that came off another manifold I have, i just need to find it.
 
ok well i need to fix something else I just broke.
I was putting the alternator belt back on and I was working the tensioner bolt down and it STRIPPED THE THREADS OUT OF THE ALTERNATOR HOUSING. like the carburetor screw, it just broke. NOT EVEN TIGHT.
I guess I will be tapping and putting new threads in the alt.
 
lol, yeah, that was a very significant vacuum leak. Think drunk prom queen scorin with the football team suck. LOL
 
ok well i need to fix something else I just broke.
I was putting the alternator belt back on and I was working the tensioner bolt down and it STRIPPED THE THREADS OUT OF THE ALTERNATOR HOUSING. like the carburetor screw, it just broke. NOT EVEN TIGHT.
I guess I will be tapping and putting new threads in the alt.
Can you put a longer bolt in it with a nut on the back side?
 
ok well i need to fix something else I just broke.
I was putting the alternator belt back on and I was working the tensioner bolt down and it STRIPPED THE THREADS OUT OF THE ALTERNATOR HOUSING. like the carburetor screw, it just broke. NOT EVEN TIGHT.
I guess I will be tapping and putting new threads in the alt.
On the slotted bracket? Just drill the alternator hole out and run a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the back side. Threads were probably shaky to start with. It's just aluminum.
 
Right there in front of my very eyes, a vacuum leak. On the tree with the red caps. Open port. Its broke off. You wear glasses?
LOLOL You posted the wrong photo and I'm like "whut"? You are right, I got lost with the OP's username, nevertheless comments about advanced timing still apply. LOL
 
On the slotted bracket? Just drill the alternator hole out and run a longer bolt all the way through and put a nut on the back side. Threads were probably shaky to start with. It's just aluminum.
let me see if I have a bolt and nut that will fit, but I'll see exactly what happened when i get the alt. off.
 
ye
lol

He's likely found the problem with the idle situation.
yeah I think so too. that whole vacuum tree situation was just bad. even the ones with the vacuum caps on them were likely not sealing.
And i was able to fix the alternator by just putting a longer bolt in it and a bunch of washers. I got lucky; only one thread was screwed up and I was able to go past it with the longer bolt.
PXL_20220110_013623530.jpg
 
So is it runnin better? Video?
 
Also, I did fire it up for just a little bit when the alternator was still broken and through the HORRENDOUS belt squeal it sounded like it was overly rich and every time a cylinder fired it was like an explosion through the exhaust. like a funny car. :D so I think i can adjust the carb accurately and get it dialed in. I will be able to mess with it tomorrow after school. its supper time now:)
 
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