I screwed up!! Advice please?

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Likely as is, no returns. Sorry!

Not unusual for these cars. Must see before purchase to confirm these issues do not exist.
 
He ought to at least offer to fund some of the repairs, which any decent frame shop can do.

That's better than getting your name run through the wringer, as well as being the right-est thing to be done in the situation.
 
Don’t take this the wrong way.
For $6000 I would expect a 50 year old car to have some underbody issues.
If one area of the frame has heavy rust, I would expect to find heavy in other areas.
That being said, if you got a complete second generation Barracuda, that needs some under body repair for the price mentioned, your deal was not a complete disaster. Like you said, it is the car you wanted, the exterior paint is good enough.
If I had paid $12000 for the car, I would have expected better. Look around a see what you get for $6000 on late model cars these days, not much.
 
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my68barracuda said:
Don’t take this the wrong way.
For $6000 I would expect a 50 year old car to have some underbody issues.
If one area of the frame has heavy rust, I would expect to find heavy in other areas.
That being said, if you got a complete second generation Barracuda, that needs some under body repair for the price mentioned, your deal was not a complete disaster. Like you said, it is the car you wanted, the exterior paint is good enough.
If I had paid $12000 for the car, I would have expected better. Look around a see what you get for $6000 on late model cars these days, not much.
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All 100% true, but his purchase certainly sounds misrepresented.
 
The 2 pictures you put up look odd. Why the black outline? Are these screen shots of some vertically recorded video?
If you do post up more pictures, PLEASE don't shoot them in vertical format. That looks horrible. The facebook morons do that. It makes every image look like you are peeking through a narrow doorway. ALL TVs, movie screens and computer monitors have screens that are wider than they are tall because our EYES are side by side, not one over the other.

Vert mmbm.jpg
 
All hobbies cost money especially in the Mopar world and comes with a lot of growing pains unless this affected the driving and the location I doubt even a seasoned car guy would have seen it I was interested in a notch that was a good drive for me the person wanted to send video I said no have to see and touch it well got there and spent maybe 15 minutes looking at it which was probably 10 to long
 
Well, I feel your pain. I really do. I just went through the same thing, not as bad as yours tho. Mine is in the body shop as we speak getting rust repair and paint done.

The way I see it, you have 2 choices if you're not willing to pursue matters.
1) Roll up your sleeves and learn how to weld, or,
2) Throw a road flare into it and roast some
water chestnuts.

You sound like a talented guy, I think you got this. Get over the disappointment and make it yours. :)
 
Im on the it can be fixed side.
I look at it as an excuse to buy tools.
But that was a long time ago.
Now im all tooled up and willing to tackle almost anything.
Mig is easy. Clean and set the machine for what you are welding. I started with a 300 dollar mig, still have it i think.
Same with air tools,buy within your means and make do with them.
I ran a way too small compressor for years, made up for it with a holding tank.

If it was here, i think i would come up with a repair,and plan to replace rail at some point in the future.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Im on the it can be fixed side.
I look at it as an excuse to buy tools.
But that was a long time ago.
Now im all tooled up and willing to tackle almost anything.
Mig is easy. Clean and set the machine for what you are welding. I started with a 300 dollar mig, still have it i think.
Same with air tools,buy within your means and make do with them.
I ran a way too small compressor for years, made up for it with a holding tank.

If it was here, i think i would come up with a repair,and plan to replace rail at some point in the future.
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better be good at rail replacement front weight and stress
 
dodge71demon said:
better be good at rail replacement front weight and stress
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Keep in mind, upper control arm
Doesent carry any load compared to the lower. Sectioning out the offending metal and replacing it and adding braces will at least make it driveable. There were kits that addressed this problem if i recall.
 
1 Learn a lesson. There are inspection companies all across the country that for a few hundred dollars will tell you everything about the condition up to are the blinkers the same brightness. You have been lucky up til now but this could happen if you don't prevent.

2 Do you have anything in writing like the advertisement stating it is a solid car? Whether you pursue legal channels or not you can hold this over his head.

3 What are you really dealing with? Have a shop inspect the car now and find out. You can't talk to him intelligently without knowing exactly how far from its representation the car really is.

4 Go into this with a game plan. What do you think is fair? What are you willing to negotiate down to? What will you do if he ignores you? After all he has your money and now you are just an annoyance. Spill his name? Litigate? Contact future buyers with your tale? Talk to his car club buddies? Whats his reputation worth?

5 Keep your perspective. Its a car. Misrepresented yes. Unfixable no. Even if you just spend a bit more and enjoy it, you have a great story to tell about how you overcame this obstacle, learned from it, and maybe help keep someone else from making the same mistake. See #1. Good luck.
 
Let's see more pics too, looks like a nice car. Engine bay, interior, trunk.
Frame rails "sound" daunting and intimidating and would be for me too but there's a lot of guys on here who have done it and would like to help?
Another thing......why do people(not just you) come here after the fact?
 
Being a driver means it doesnt have to look pretty, I suggest externally patching the frame rails with sheet metal, just sure up the areas it looks weak, a mig welder these days is not a big investment, just make sure you get one for shielding gas and not flux core wire, then patch away! It'll be very rewarding, odds are that the geometry is fine, the factory stuff wasn't that close anyway and it'll need alignment, good luck! Turn a bad situation around!
 
At this point it could still be a 5 to 6000 car. Before you look into fixing what you've found, take a close look at other serious failure points. Torsion bars break out a rusted cross member sockets. Forward spring perches come through rear floor pans. None are easy fixes but are fixable. Aftermarket does offer that mount assembly which includes the upper shock mount but it extends down and welds on the inner side of the frame rail. It's spot welded to inner fender in about 6 places. Quite difficult to get to. Good used frame rail section with that suspension assembly on it might be the better plan depending on condition of your rails.
I'm sure you wanted a car you could drive safely and enjoy today. I'm sorry that didn't pan out for you. Summer is gone. Find the coin to invest in it over the winter, hit the streets next spring. I don't think you'll loose a dime in the long run.
 
I’ll get some pics up as soon as it dries up outside.
I have video from the seller stating how excellent the frame/torsion cross is.
“Just surface rust and the factory undercoating peeling “ ect.
“Nothing structural “
So if it were a to enter a court, I’m sure I’d be fine. It’s just hard to swallow being “lied” to like that. What if I took her out at speed and the wheel fell off!?!?
I researched the seller some more, and he is quite well known in the Mopar world. Works at multi brand family of dealerships. I almost wanted to leave a review of my experience on their Facebook page, but that would be wrong at this time anyhow.
I’ll get her up in the air and do a thorough assessment.
May call him again and ask for a refund plus shipping if it’s really bad.
I fully understand I should have sent someone to inspect it.
The seller talked me out of that so to speak. “My brother does inspection for —————, high end muscle and classic cars ect” save yourself some money in the inspection he said, no one can give you more information than I can. So going back through our texts and voicemails, I do think he was full of it. Me being excited about getting a great deal didn’t help.
More soon.
 
Well I'm curious to see the video and who the seller was. Post the video on YouTube, then link it here?
Sounds like snake oil salesman/brother.
 
And one of the pictures he sent I noticed a bit of rust in that area, I asked him About it and this is what he sent me
 
Kern Dog said:
The 2 pictures you put up look odd. Why the black outline? Are these screen shots of some vertically recorded video?
If you do post up more pictures, PLEASE don't shoot them in vertical format. That looks horrible. The facebook morons do that. It makes every image look like you are peeking through a narrow doorway. ALL TVs, movie screens and computer monitors have screens that are wider than they are tall because our EYES are side by side, not one over the other.

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I usually don't spit out my morning coffee, but when I do, its because I 'LMAO' at photos like this.

Kern Dog, you're the man! Thank you sir for the saturday morning humor. Now back to the thread.
 
Maybe a bit of buyer’s remorse here, list the car on the forum with pics with the good and the bad. It will more than likely get sold, then you will be kicking yourself in the backside when it leaves on a trailer…..
 
Your not that far from me. I get $1000 if the floors are solid to put a complete front clip on and primer the welds. I can paint the engine compartment that's extra . You provide the clip. They usually sell for $125 - $250 at local yards and then removing them is another $250. I have a 70 duster here that may have a good one for $350 removed because it is on my property.

I do a lot of them A rusted car is easier than a hit car. You remove the grille, header , bumper, and valance. You will get it back ready to re install them. I replace all rusted clips and bolts. If the new clip is rusted I will blast the areas at the control arm area and paint that whole area when its apart. that is extra do to materials. $1000 is just to make it a driver . Resto's on the engine compartment and factory paint is extra . The price above is just to make the car solid and road worthy for years to come

Here is what it takes I have done many more than shown. some of them were really bad.

There is no better way to fix your car. I have been doing these cars since they were new. I am 64 my son is 34 and he was taught since he was 9 yrs old. I have a barracuda here now and two valiants on there way. One is a member on this site.

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My take is you bought it over the phone and the buyer was not totally upfront about it, call it bad salesmanship. You do not entertain taking it back. How bad is it and an you make it all good and safe? That is now the question.
Like said, for $6000 you probably got what your $ would by you there. Not that often, that buys your a perfect totally done car.
You just wanted a safe driver, but cars in the rust belt seem to always have ISSUES I notice!! You or someone knowledgable just has to determine what needs to be done, and figure out who will actually do the required work.
 
Car has been looked over and it’s really pretty decent aside from the areas mentioned.
I’m done pissing and moaning!
Thanks all for the shoulders to cry on.
I’m going to keep her.
@Oldmanmopar , you have a pm!
Here’s a few pics:
 
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