Oh believe me, PLENTY of swear words/wrenches/empty beer cans have been thrown around. But I only have myself to blame...after all, I could've just taken it to a shop this whole time, but nooooooo...I'm stubborn and want to learn how to do this.
Okay, I’ve attached a link to a video I took with the cooler line disconnected. The first few seconds looks like it’s purging some air, then gets a flow. My question is how much flow at idle should it have? The fluid level is 1/3 between “ADD 1 PINT” and “FULL.” https://youtube.com/shorts/buysVJ0Uj-c?feature=share
Here’s part 2 with some slight revving, there’s an obvious increase in flow. https://youtube.com/shorts/buysVJ0Uj-c?feature=share
No, I've been running it right at the full mark. For the test, I was filling it and realized I forgot to re-attach the drive shaft when I heard fluid dripping on the floor. So, the level it was at was where it stopped leaking out of the tail shaft housing (minus whatever went back into the converter, I'm guessing).
The way you have that line disconnected is only testing the line coming from the trans; not the cooler and not the return line.
Shit. All I saw was "remove the output line" and thought he was talking about the output from the transmission. Engine's out, but I'm starting a 48 hour shift today. Won't be able to get to it until Tuesday. I'm going to get a converter ordered preemptively but I'll post pics of the snout ASAP.
Converter arrived yesterday....next day delivery from Summit! Anyway, rebuilding the front end today and will post pics of the old converter/pump/bushing soon. I did notice something peculiar on the headers though. The headers are newish and polished, but #6 and 7 both look dull, like they got REAL hot. I'm going to pull all the plugs and have a look. I have a thread going on about a misfire I can't fix, but I'll ask here as well: what could make just two cylinders run so much hotter than the rest?
I'm no expert here, but my 2 cts. would be, maybe in time they will all look the same, being new. The other thought is, maybe those two exhaust valves are opening to soon or not closing all the way. You should here a popping sound. Check compression on those two cylinders.
I sure hope they don’t all end up dull like that, I paid extra for polished. And I will say that the last time I pulled the plugs, #6 and 7 were badly carbon fouled.
Pull all the plugs and check them also. All carbon fouled ? too rich fuel, wrong heat range or just the two, change out the two wires, maybe they are old and shorted out. Look at the wires in the dark (motor running) and look for an arcing. Uncross wires.
Don't 6 & 7 share a runner? And doesn't that runner take the power brake line? Are you losing brake fluid?
I could be wrong but it looks like the power brake line goes to #8? I do lose fluid, but I've always attributed that to my leaky proportioning valve. I pulled the plugs and they are all rich. I do remember richening the mixture when trying to see if that would solve what I thought was a lean condition. Didn't work. Here's the #6 header, you can see how it's dull and some of the finish became powdery.
Pulled the plugs yesterday and they're all rich. My wires are new and I've confirmed continuity, plugs are heat range 5. I will say that I richened the idle a bit because I suspected a lean condition, so that may be the cause of the rich plugs. I'll do a compression test once the engine is back in.
