Ideas for what everyone is using for traction devices?

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Steven190

Steven190

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Looking for ideas as to what to go to for traction device. I am using a pinion snubber now and it kinda works. I am noticing that the snubber is bending in the floor some, even after I added a plate. The plate I used is 10 gauge, but it seems it is not enough strength there.
I am looking at the ones that go on the spring, my springs are Firm Feel +1 HD.
 
Sandbags in the trunk, lottsa sandbags with sand in them. About 400 pounds. As far back as you can put them. But...... try not to brake too hard. And crashing is just flat, not allowed.
Ok just kidding of course.
I just put a bigger cam in her. I had to make up for the slow 60fts somehow,lol.
Ok seriously now,IDK;
But if it's a streeter, stick it in second,lol. I mean delay the secondaries, or retard the timing, or install a smaller carb,or
Ok what I mean is I'm in the same predicament, and there has been no good cure for me.And I mostly don't care, because;sliding and drifting and spinning is just so much fun, I'm willing to sacrifice the half second on the start-line.
Happy HotRodding
 
Mostly street, running the Street ET tires, I get on it some. There isn't much in the way for spring traction. Going to try the Competition Engineering leaf spring bars.
Thanks
 
Slant 6 swap. NOT a super 6 either. A 1 barrel 225 with a decent tire and a sure grip. You won't ever have a traction issue.
 
Steven190 said:
Looking for ideas as to what to go to for traction device. I am using a pinion snubber now and it kinda works. I am noticing that the snubber is bending in the floor some, even after I added a plate. The plate I used is 10 gauge, but it seems it is not enough strength there.
I am looking at the ones that go on the spring, my springs are Firm Feel +1 HD.
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Some racers with the floor problem you describe have tied the floor plate to the cross bar of the main hoop of the roll cage/bar. But, if you don't have a cage or bar, moot point.
 
When you go to the track, slightly preload the snubber. That reduces the impact. it won't totally solve the bending to the sheet metal but may save some broken parts.
 
Stock springs(old and weak I'm sure) snubber, 50/50 shocks on rear,80/20s on front. And some Hoosier's . No traction problems here.
20180207_104938.jpg
 
Just running nothing but a snubber and cheap Summit race shocks car 60 foots in the 1.40's..
 
I have a 273 under one hood and a 318 2 barrel under the other. No traction problems with either car.:rofl:
 
Ya know I was at the track one time (2004), and after I got my one successful run in, me and my boy hit the bleachers. During the course of the afternoon, I kept seeing this freaky car, doing a strange thing, but running pretty good. When he launched, the rear would rise along with the front, which is kindof normal, but the rear KEPT on rising; it was freaky. So I went down a little closer to see what his back end was doing. It turns out he had unclamped the back halves of his leaf-packs, and it looked like he had installed several clamps on the front sections. I couldn't see under the car from my vantage point, and I do not recall what kind of car it was other than black. That back end must have had a range of motion over 10inches. It seemed to hook pretty good,tho.
 
toolmanmike said:
I have a 273 under one hood and a 318 2 barrel under the other. No traction problems with either car
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Like my slanty,one-time-DD with what seems like a 1200stall, and NO "posi" required. It pushes snow drifts pretty good tho at 30mph in second gear; hammer down and pray I don't get hung up.
 
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don't forget the front end there's as much traction to be found there as the back half .
 
AJ/FormS said:
Ya know I was at the track one time (2004), and after I got my one successful run in, me and my boy hit the bleachers. During the course of the afternoon, I kept seeing this freaky car, doing a strange thing, but running pretty good. When he launched, the rear would rise along with the front, which is kindof normal, but the rear KEPT on rising; it was freaky. So I went down a little closer to see what his back end was doing. It turns out he had unclamped the back halves of his leaf-packs, and it looked like he had installed several clamps on the front sections. I couldn't see under the car from my vantage point, and I do not recall what kind of car it was other than black. That back end must have had a range of motion over 10inches. It seemed to hook pretty good,tho.
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Very old trick recommended by Chrysler in the old days . We did that trying to make the old hemi car hook up___but it had enough power to bring the front end up higher and hold it to second gear "IF " the track was prepped, and the dam camaros weren`t spilling gas out of their behind the tag gas filler caps._________
 
I wanted to try it as I had been 60fting in the mid 2.4s that morning. But the car had already gone 93, far exceeding my expectations, and I was there with my son, to have a good time, and it was an hour's drive home still. So far, the car was not hurt, and we were there for the good memories. Fourteen years later, my son still speaks fondly of that day.
 
Steven190 said:
Looking for ideas as to what to go to for traction device. I am using a pinion snubber now and it kinda works. I am noticing that the snubber is bending in the floor some, even after I added a plate. The plate I used is 10 gauge, but it seems it is not enough strength there.
I am looking at the ones that go on the spring, my springs are Firm Feel +1 HD.
Click to expand...

Both my Mopars hook hard on the street. Only thing that's beat me out of the hole so far was a Nissan all-wheel-drive GTR with slicks. Properly adjusted bolt-on slapper bars, Nitto Drag Radials and (2800lbs - A-Body & 3200lbs- E-Body) SS spring rated hundreds of pounds below my car's actual weight (both weigh in around 3700lbs).

The 3200 lbs springs on the E-Body have a bit too much spring rate, (which gives a harsh ride with no weight in the car), so I'm going to try a set of the lighter 2800lbs SS springs on it for a more compliant ride. Use passenger side springs if you want a bit more ride height and driver's side springs if you want a bit less.

I know the old Wive's Tale about how this doesn't work on Mopar's, but even Bob Tarozzi checked out my A-Body and was impressed. Best rear suspension I've had in 4 decades of trying all the above and then some.

slapper bar 2.JPG


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JohnRace2 (Large).jpg
 
Everything that can be removed from the car should be removed,if it cant be removed,atleast move it as far back as you can.
A front suspension that moves easily is good.
Worn out front shocks works,but som 90/10 or 70/30 shoks are a much better idea.
Old,soft torsionbars gives alitle more motion to the front aswell.
Find out what the car likes for tirepreasure.
sometimes you can take alitle power out of the engine at launch to easier keep things under control(not the right thing to do but if you are right att the edge of getting the car to hook it can help.thats pretty much what you can do almost for free.

Caltraks,slidealink or some homemade version works very good.
IF all of the above is done and still not working, put ladderbars or a fourlink and biasplyslicks under the thing and the thing will deadhook once you get it set up right.
 
jbc426 said:
Both my Mopars hook hard on the street. Only thing that's beat me out of the hole so far was a Nissan all-wheel-drive GTR with slicks. Properly adjusted bolt-on slapper bars, Nitto Drag Radials and (2800lbs - A-Body & 3200lbs- E-Body) SS spring rated hundreds of pounds below my car's actual weight (both weigh in around 3700lbs).

The 3200 lbs springs on the E-Body have a bit too much spring rate, (which gives a harsh ride with no weight in the car), so I'm going to try a set of the lighter 2800lbs SS springs on it for a more compliant ride. Use passenger side springs if you want a bit more ride height and driver's side springs if you want a bit less.

I know the old Wive's Tale about how this doesn't work on Mopar's, but even Bob Tarozzi checked out my A-Body and was impressed. Best rear suspension I've had in 4 decades of trying all the above and then some.

View attachment 1715213199

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IMG_20171106_202237.jpg


Lets see if it works for me.
 
I’m using xhd springs with Assassin traction bars with QA1 adjustable shocks.
 
Steven190 said:
Looking for ideas as to what to go to for traction device. I am using a pinion snubber now and it kinda works. I am noticing that the snubber is bending in the floor some, even after I added a plate. The plate I used is 10 gauge, but it seems it is not enough strength there.
I am looking at the ones that go on the spring, my springs are Firm Feel +1 HD.
Click to expand...
Traction? But wouldn't that prevent these? :poke:
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Nothing. Both 440 convertible have subframe connectors, but I don't want too much traction to put stress on the body...They're just street drivers anyway.
 
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