identify torque converter 727

[SwedishViking]

Hello, i recently got my hands on a torque conveter for a 727. I would like to know how to identify it.
It seems like it is stamped with a A001769X.
Greetings from Sweden

 

[transman]

All the information I've got doesn't show that stamping number and in another reference book for E bodies, nothing there either. It appears that it has the 1" wide ring gear which would make it a 11" converter. It has been apart(converter is painted & factory converters aren't), and it also looks like an anti-ballooning plate has been added to the hub area. From this, I would suspect that it was at one time, a performance converter of some type, but built by who I couldn't tell you. It's a good possibility that the number stamped is the builders part number. The hub in my opinion is in not good condition, and you might consider just getting the converter rebuilt. On any used converter, you don't know what you've got. It could be a good one, or it could be a time bomb. Over the years I worked in the converter industry, most performance converters we opened up for inspection were in need of some type of maintenance. The Torrington bearings inside were usually in poor condition, and even on just a cleanout, they were replaced with new ones, and the one way roller clutch(the sprag) was tended to also. Without it opened up, you just don't know.
I hope this is of some help to you. Good luck.

 

[SwedishViking]

Thx i forgot to say it is a aftermarket 8"
Consider to have it opend and checkt but i thought i would se if i can get any information before that. If it evens is money worth spend.
As far as i know i bought it for 300$ and that is what i can se what it would cost to rebuilt it.

 

[transman]

Thx i forgot to say it is a aftermarket 8"
Consider to have it opend and checkt but i thought i would se if i can get any information before that. If it evens is money worth spend.
As far as i know i bought it for 300$ and that is what i can se what it would cost to rebuilt it.

I didn't look hard enough at the lower photo and now I can see there is a space between the ring gear and the converter body.
I'm not sure how you got the $300.00 price to rebuild it. Until it's opened up, it is impossible to determine how much or how little work is required to repair it. If you have tipped the converter over so oil can spill out and found no metal pieces mixed in with the oil, or any indication of aluminum then perhaps the price is correct. However, if there is internal damage to the pump(hub side of the converter), the turbine, or the stator(typically an aluminum piece), then you may end up spending more money than perhaps you can get a new one for. Only once it is cut open will you really know what is wrong.
This is exactly the reason I do not recommend buying used converters of any type as you do not know what condition it is truly in. I've told this story before, but to give you an idea how one can get screwed over buying a used converter, here is an example. At a swap meet a couple of years back, a guy was selling a T.C.S. high stall converter, claiming it was a 3500 stall, for a TH350, virtually new and had hardly been used. It had the painted part number on it "35-12SS" which was our part number. I worked at the time for T.C.S. and knew that we stall rated that thing at 300-400 rpm over a stock 350 converter and they typically stalled(stock) at around 1300-1400 rpm from GM. The serial number(all of our performance converters have a serial number on them) indicated to me that it was at least 6 years old. Looked nice and shiny though with the rattle can paint job.
I do hope that all your converter needs are the bearings replaced, the sprag attended to and a new hub. That work alone should run you in the $300.00 mark.
I wish you the best.