Ignition switch going bad 1968 Dart

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68Dart270

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So today when I started the car I noticed my turn signals didnt work, jiggled the keys and they started working again. Same tbing happened again on the way home starting the car,but this time the temp and gas gauges didnt work either, jiggled the key back and forth and the gauges and the turn signals came back on again,so it looks like ill be changing the switch out. Have to buy the switch,but was wondering How do you get the lock cylinder out of the switch? Does it just slide out?
 
After you get the lock assy out of the dash there is a pin on the side of the lock mechanism that you press in and then turn the key to run. The cyl and key will then slide out. Slide the cyl into the new lock and turn to off. Remove the key and your done


I don't know which year but one of the years the lock is unique, I think 69.
 
'68 is unique also if you want it to lock into the dash frame correctly. '67 and earlier use a nub to do that. '68 uses a slot. '69 is a lot bigger in length and diameter. They also make both 5 and 6 terminal versions depending on whether your model needed a ground connection or not. 6 terminal will replace a 5, but, not vice versa without another way to ground things. If you want a good used switch, PM me.
 
After you get the lock assy out of the dash there is a pin on the side of the lock mechanism that you press in and then turn the key to run. The cyl and key will then slide out. Slide the cyl into the new lock and turn to off. Remove the key and your done


I don't know which year but one of the years the lock is unique, I think 69.
Thanks.
 
'68 is unique also if you want it to lock into the dash frame correctly. '67 and earlier use a nub to do that. '68 uses a slot. '69 is a lot bigger in length and diameter. They also make both 5 and 6 terminal versions depending on whether your model needed a ground connection or not. 6 terminal will replace a 5, but, not vice versa without another way to ground things. If you want a good used switch, PM me.
Thank you. Glad I asked. I didnt realize there were different versions. I guess the only way to figure out which one I have is to pull it out of the dash. Or can you tell by the model of the car which it has? The six terminal or the five terminal
 
Only takes a few minutes to pull. Get it out, count the terminals, and get the part number off the barrel.
 
Maybe loose wires feeding in/out of switch? There are repop switches available, but the NOS one Townsend posted is tempting.
 
I'd say if jiggling the cylinder makes or breaks contact in the switch, then its the switch that has a problem. Turn signals and wipers are on the A terminal (Accessory) but the other contacts probably are not far behind.

I'm not aware of any use for a ground terminal on these cars. Its just another example of saving money by producing one part to cover multiple applications.

Removing the switch from the dash is relatively easy. If you have the tool to fit the notches on the ring, great. If not one can make do if one is careful.
 
I'd say if jiggling the cylinder makes or breaks contact in the switch, then its the switch that has a problem. Turn signals and wipers are on the A terminal (Accessory) but the other contacts probably are not far behind.

I'm not aware of any use for a ground terminal on these cars. Its just another example of saving money by producing one part to cover multiple applications.

Removing the switch from the dash is relatively easy. If you have the tool to fit the notches on the ring, great. If not one can make do if one is careful.
I only have the headlight switch tool. I am sure i can get the ring on the ignition switch off though. I will take it out this evening when I get home.
 
'68 is unique also if you want it to lock into the dash frame correctly. '67 and earlier use a nub to do that. '68 uses a slot. '69 is a lot bigger in length and diameter. They also make both 5 and 6 terminal versions depending on whether your model needed a ground connection or not. 6 terminal will replace a 5, but, not vice versa without another way to ground things. If you want a good used switch, PM me.
I wonder why all the parts houses list the ignition switch fitting 1960-1968 cars when 1968 is unique. Thats good to know that 68 is a one year only switch with a special mounting slot. How are people able to make a 60-68 switch fit?
 
May be able to explain why the aftermarket and Chrysler ignition switches claim to be the same from 1960 to 1968.
Following info from 60 - 68 Chrysler parts catalogs and Chrysler supersedence bulletins.
1960 - 1964 #2097628
1965 - 1967 #2497158
1968 - 2864258
Starting in 1965 the 2097628 was replaced by #2497158
Chrysler claims the 1968 switch replaces the earlier years.
Only problem is the 68 locks into the dash by a different method than the previous model years.
So the aftermarket followed Chrysler's statement that the 68 will replace the 60-67 which is not entirely true.
 
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Just a note...
The 67 and older connector only has 5 terminals BUT will fit on the 6 terminal switch, The "G" ground terminal is just not used.

the 68 and 69 up will have the connector lock tabs on the side

1778182596022.png




'67 and earlier use a nub to do that. '68 uses a slot.
lock into the bezel? So a real 67 style will not work in a 68 Bezel but a 68 will work in a 67 Bezel But the lock body could rotate, correct?

1778182680741.png
 
I'm not aware of any use for a ground terminal on these cars. Its just another example of saving money by producing one part to cover multiple applications.

Removing the switch from the dash is relatively easy. If you have the tool to fit the notches on the ring, great. If not one can make do if one is careful.

I'm 99% sure I researched that too when I was making the 67 and 68 ignition switch connectors. And not one wiring diagram showed a ground wire IIRC not even any of the models A,B,C,E maybe imperial?????


I only have the headlight switch tool. I am sure i can get the ring on the ignition switch off though. I will take it out this evening when I get home.
Im sure you have it out already but this is what can happen without the correct tool
1778183211911.png
 

The '68 switch will fit and work in the '61-7 models, it just won't lock into the dash frame. Unless you get the bezel REAL tight, the whole switch will spin when you turn the key.
 
Completely agree with cudamark.
Aftermarket companies usually base their year range with info provided by the original manufacturer which in this case was Chrysler.
Would not be the only mistake Chrysler made with multiple superseding numbers.
 
Just a note...
The 67 and older connector only has 5 terminals BUT will fit on the 6 terminal switch, The "G" ground terminal is just not used.

the 68 and 69 up will have the connector lock tabs on the side

View attachment 1716541097




lock into the bezel? So a real 67 style will not work in a 68 Bezel but a 68 will work in a 67 Bezel But the lock body could rotate, correct?

View attachment 1716541098
My 2497158 switches are all 6 terminal with no wire connector nubs. All my '68 switches 2864258 are also 6 terminal but with the connector nubs. My 2097628 switches are all 5 terminal.
 
FWIW, This is Standard Motor Product's US 50 switch
1778195162869.png


To the question about the release pin for the core,
1778195224517.png
 
Just a note...
The 67 and older connector only has 5 terminals BUT will fit on the 6 terminal switch, The "G" ground terminal is just not used.

the 68 and 69 up will have the connector lock tabs on the side

View attachment 1716541097




lock into the bezel? So a real 67 style will not work in a 68 Bezel but a 68 will work in a 67 Bezel But the lock body could rotate, correct?

View attachment 1716541098
Very interesting! Thanks for posting the photos so I can see the differences. I know 68's have many special one year only parts. Never knew this about the lock cylinder.
Are there issues with using the commonly available switches in 1968's
 
I'm 99% sure I researched that too when I was making the 67 and 68 ignition switch connectors. And not one wiring diagram showed a ground wire IIRC not even any of the models A,B,C,E maybe imperial?????



Im sure you have it out already but this is what can happen without the correct tool
View attachment 1716541100
Thankfully the ring was already loose and I could back it out by hand!
 
The '68 switch will fit and work in the '61-7 models, it just won't lock into the dash frame. Unless you get the bezel REAL tight, the whole switch will spin when you turn the key.
Im glad I asked before I replaced the switch..I was unaware the 68 switches were special one year items
 
It would appear then based on your photos that the standard US-50 switch would be correct for a 68 Dart as it has the slot at the end to align it in the dash and prevent it from turning
Yes it does. That one I bought in 2017 from Rockauto and may have been somewhat older stock.
 
Yes it does. That one I bought in 2017 from Rockauto and may have been somewhat older stock.
The Oreillys website shows the US-50 for $26 with lifetime warranty and it looks like yours with the correct indexing notch. 6 terminal lugs on back.
Was able to get the ring off mine,but because my car has ac the vents have to come down to get tbe switch out
 
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