Improper engine break in.

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We had a very hard time making a set of gears last in our race truck. The only way we found to get them to last longer than one race was to break em in. Extreme example sure, 5500 pounds, 37” tires, almost 700 hp, 400-1000 mile races, but it really extended the life of a gearset. We can now get 2 races out of them. Lol
 
Bakerlite said:
... If the engine is clean when you assemble it, what would you expect to find?? I just check to see if there is any sign of metal in the oil.
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Gremlins. We always changed it at 50 miles, just to flush out anything unexpected. Then, good to go.
 
Filters and oil are a lot cheaper than engine parts. That said break in the cam ..change the oil , tune it up ...and drive it like you stole it.
 
alpha13 said:
Hey guys, I've been milling it around in my head for about a week. Long story short. I helped a friend rebuild a mild 350 chevy. (I need Mopar Baptized!) After we broke in the cam for the 30 minutes, I mentioned changing the oil. He insisted that it didn't need changed for at least 50 miles. I told him otherwise but he drove it anyway. We drove the truck around for about 50 miles and changed the oil using the zinc additive. I told him about the 500 miles of lightly driving to break in the rest of the engine and he agreed. Then he sends me a video of him doing burnouts and romping on it with just over a few hundred miles on a fresh built engine.:banghead: I told him to go easy on it for a while after I saw the videos. Anyway, my real question is, How much damage could actually have been done to his engine? I would assume his rings might suffer a little and some internals might have a harder time mating. Do you think it will live if he baby's it for the rest of the break in cycle? I don't know everything, I'm just curious to know some opinions or experiences.:prayer:
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Do a proper cam break in, change oil and filter, adjust valves if need be.
Drive it like you stole it.
 
back in the 80's my dad bought a new car. he knew the guys at the dealership workshops and asked about 'proper' running in procedure. they said drive it from day one how you intend to drive it for ever, so he hammered it from that moment. it always ran like a top and used no oil between services.
neil.
 
What's a good weight to run a stock clearance 360 hot smallblock? I've been using VR-1 30 straight weight with good results. However, 30 straight weight is getting harder to come by. I live down south in San Antonio, Texas which summers can be brutal and cold mild to cold but is short lived. 10/40 or say 10/30? 10/30 is thinner than 30 straight I would think?
 
QuickDart360 said:
What's a good weight to run a stock clearance 360 hot smallblock? I've been using VR-1 30 straight weight with good results. However, 30 straight weight is getting harder to come by. I live down south in San Antonio, Texas which summers can be brutal and cold mild to cold but is short lived. 10/40 or say 10/30? 10/30 is thinner than 30 straight I would think?
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Any multi grade oil always starts out at the winter grade. So a 10w30 starts out as a 10 and uses viscosity index improvers so when it gets to 212 degrees F it acts like a 30.

There is never a reason to use a single grade oil. After WWII the VI improvers were available to everyone, making single grade oils obsolete.

The greater the spread between the winter grade and the operating temp grade means it uses more VI improvers, and gets further away from being a Newtonian fluid.
 
I can also get some brad penn oil for descent price. 10/30 have good amount of zinc? 10/40 not better for viscosity sake?
 
not exactly the same anymore YR
the base stocks like u find in redline and the new corvette 0W-40 don't shear down because the
basestocks are so good
vett oil is Dexos 2 as opposed to DEXOS 1 rev 2
Mobil 1 ESP made from natural gas- no wax
It just does not thin out with heating up
don't need no stinking viscosity improvers- which is what shears down loosing VI
that's how they get a 20,000 mile oil (not with carbs)
where's 540rat when we need him :)
 
Just changed the oil and filter in the 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Valvoline VR1 SAE 30, still runs like new. Same for the 96 ACR Neon, same for the 66 Formula S. I ask for it and my parts store gets it for me. Brad Penn is great oil. If you want to run multi grade, I go with 10-30 in the 2009 Challenger.
 
Wyrmrider said:
not exactly the same anymore YR
the base stocks like u find in redline and the new corvette 0W-40 don't shear down because the
basestocks are so good
vett oil is Dexos 2 as opposed to DEXOS 1 rev 2
Mobil 1 ESP made from natural gas- no wax
It just does not thin out with heating up
don't need no stinking viscosity improvers- which is what shears down loosing VI
that's how they get a 20,000 mile oil (not with carbs)
where's 540rat when we need him :)
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Did u guys see the oil tests on you tube ? the new pennzoil platinum out did everything, including mobil 1 .
In yrs past , i wouldnt put penzoil in my lawnmowers .
think i`m going to it next change.
 
When mine was built I had it on the Dyno and after break in they made at least min 10 6000rpm pulls setting up ,tuning I was pretty cool with it as if it was going to go wrong let it be there. Man that was a rush when you opened the door while it was idling that ***** sounded pretty angry.
 
once the cam was broken in on the dyno , changed the oil and beat the crap out of it the engine lasted 8 years then was put away still in perfect condition . My engine builder 30 years ago tod me when i picked up the car , beat it either it lasts or it don't never had a problem . of course always mopar
 
yellow rose said:
Who paid for the tests, and what tests did they use?
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Cant remember his name , no company or factory backing, the guy does it for fun. You can maybe google you tube for ----------"lets find out ." Apply what ever ur looking for =="what air filter is the best /lets find out "
Thats how i stumbled on him. people do send him stuff to test from timer to time, really likable young guy and comical sometimes too.
He tests all kind of stuff----------------
 
i use valvoline vr1 1-30 synthetic and royal purple xr 10-40 synthetic , so far no problems , don't use a drop of oil between changes , maybe I'm just lucky ?
 
Nat said:
i use valvoline vr1 1-30 synthetic and royal purple xr 10-40 synthetic , so far no problems , don't use a drop of oil between changes , maybe I'm just lucky ?
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I forgot about royal purple! I used their trans fluid in my 727 great stuff! May go with 10/40 royal purple prices seem ok for this quality oil!!:thumbsup::steering:
 
We like Royal Purple because we were sponsored in our race cars for a few years but the HPR race oil is near $200 for a five litre bottle. (1 Gallon) So I use Penright in my car now.
 
James Clews said:
We like Royal Purple because we were sponsored in our race cars for a few years but the HPR race oil is near $200 for a five litre bottle. (1 Gallon) So I use Penright in my car now.
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yeah, free is good, we used to run what ever a sponser would give us , quaker state was the biggest one for oil, never had an oil related problem in 14 yrs , racing the same hemi----
 
TT5.9mag said:
We had a very hard time making a set of gears last in our race truck. The only way we found to get them to last longer than one race was to break em in. Extreme example sure, 5500 pounds, 37” tires, almost 700 hp, 400-1000 mile races, but it really extended the life of a gearset. We can now get 2 races out of them. Lol
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My rear axle guy told me the best way to break in gears, were to run them around town easy until some heat could be felt on the rear housing.
Shut the car off and let it cool all the way down, Do it again 2 more times to seat the gears.
 
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