In case anyone is interested in cooling flushing.

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Greg what are you using for "water?"

My old (RIP) engineering friend from San Diego, when I first met him, had a then brand new 70 Chev K2500. Over the course of our friendship, that truck got a new timing set and bigger cam and I've forgotten what else. In any Case Gary was a pretty smart guy, and unlike "most" San Diegans, did NOT use tap water in the system. Antifreeze and store-bought "pure" (insert your word) water. And that radiator and engine internals literally looked like new years later. I've forgotten, I think he kept that truck nearly 15 years when living, later, in AZ (General Dynamics)
 
Yes, the challenge in flushing with bottled water is to get continual flow into the system.

Much easier to stick in a garden hose with some pressure than try to get a gallon jug and the atmosphere to work.
 
We used to put in a jar of Lipton’s instant iced tea... drive around for a couple days... mild acidic characteristics of the tea did a real good job cleaning the innerds..

drain and refill with premixed anti freeze and job was done.
 
This is kinda close to the post so I will add. Back in the 80’s and 90’s I was a GM master tech. That means I got all the engine and trans trouble shooting and a ton of blown head gaskets on GM. When they first went to Dexacool the orange 100,000mile coolant we did a lot of coolant leaks and head gaskets. At that time the radiators no longer were the fill point and the start of the “coolant bottle” was used. When you had a “milk shake mess” as we called them you could not clean the bottles and GM would not pay for new ones. The plastic bottle was full of nooks and crannies that would collect the mess. So GM made us go out and buy Tide laundry soap. Flush the engine with clear water till most brown junk was gone. Then add 1 cup of powdered tide and refill with clear water. Run for approx 20 mins and make sure thermostat cycled 10times. Then flush again with clear water. Then replace head gasket- that’s the best I remember of the procedure. Anyhow, it worked well. Especially on the aluminum blocked car. Dishwashing powder also works- the goal is no residue from the soap.
 
67Dart273 said:
Greg what are you using for "water?"

My old (RIP) engineering friend from San Diego, when I first met him, had a then brand new 70 Chev K2500. Over the course of our friendship, that truck got a new timing set and bigger cam and I've forgotten what else. In any Case Gary was a pretty smart guy, and unlike "most" San Diegans, did NOT use tap water in the system. Antifreeze and store-bought "pure" (insert your word) water. And that radiator and engine internals literally looked like new years later. I've forgotten, I think he kept that truck nearly 15 years when living, later, in AZ (General Dynamics)
Click to expand...

Hi Del.
Our tap water is pretty soft so I just use that.
A lot of people use distilled.
 
Thanks for the video. Twice a year is thorough, but another guy has you beat, saying he used to swap engines between winter and summer.

I'm low-maintenance focused so use Evans Waterless Coolant in most my cars (and silicone brake fluid, silicone hoses, Viton O-rings, ...). I did install a stainless screen in the top radiator hose to catch debris before it can clog the radiator tubes, but never found much. Before installing Evans, I flushed by driving with water w/ citric acid for a week, then flush with water several times, then dry in our hot summers by running air thru w/ a sleep-apnea puffer for a few days. Getting all water from the heater core is hardest. I used 60 psia air, blocking and venting it to puff the water out as droplets.
 
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