Incremental body and paint advise

[mike240]

I am going to hand sand my car to bare metal. Very solid car and no panel work and rust through issues. I do not want to put the metal through the sandblast process and have the time to do it by hand.

Since I want to protect the bare metal asap and will only work a panel at the time, is it okay to use Eastwood 2k epoxy primer in the spray can/bomb? Then later do my filler if and when needed followed by a building filler primer on the same brand of the paint to be applied?

Thanks.

 

[JDMopar]

Personally, I wouldn't use rattle can primer on something I cared about. If you have an air compressor, buy some epoxy primer from Southern Polyurethane to seal up you metal when you get the old paint sanded off. You can buy one of the cheap Harbor Freight purple spray guns to apply it with. Your plan of attack sounds good, but I personally would hesitate to use the rattle can primer. I am not a professional painter but experienced enough to do my own paint and body work. Maybe some of the pro painters like @67Dart440GT will chime in when they get a chance. Good luck with your project.
Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes

 

[Bodyperson]

Sounds like a good plan to me.
Just remember, most direct to metal products require aggressive tooth for good bonding. The finest I like is #80. Sandblasted is the best profile. Keep us post on your progress.

 

[67Dart440GT]

Personally, I wouldn't use rattle can primer on something I cared about. If you have an air compressor, buy some epoxy primer from Southern Polyurethane to seal up you metal when you get the old paint sanded off. You can buy one of the cheap Harbor Freight purple spray guns to apply it with. Your plan of attack sounds good, but I personally would hesitate to use the rattle can primer. I am not a professional painter but experienced enough to do my own paint and body work. Maybe some of the pro painters like @67Dart440GT will chime in when they get a chance. Good luck with your project.
Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes

I think you said everything he needs to know sir! I agree on a cheap gun and some good epoxy.

 

[RGAZ]

Then later do my filler....

How much later is later and will it be in a climate controlled area or at least inside a garage?

I agree with previous, a quick shot of epoxy would be best, but I would like to know your timing to suggest other options.

RGAZ

 

[mike240]

How much later is later and will it be in a climate controlled area or at least inside a garage?

I agree with previous, a quick shot of epoxy would be best, but I would like to know your timing to suggest other options.

RGAZ

I am working inside a insulated garage. I will do the filler within a couple days. One panel at the time.

 

[RGAZ]

I am working inside a insulated garage. I will do the filler within a couple days. One panel at the time.

Ok, that is a short period of time and in a somewhat controlled environment, in this case I recommend using Eastwood After Blast Metal Prep or something similar. Its a basic prep that cleans and protects the metal giving a slight etching and phosphate oxide coating for the paint to grip to. I would not recommend epoxy if you are planning on doing the bodywork so soon after applying, you may not get the epoxy cure time needed (check the instructions) but I DO recommend you do a complete epoxy and seal after bodywork. The After Blast Etch will just give you some time you need between steps and prevent flash rust and fingerprint rust. I have only used it once and it seemed to work fine if you follow the instructions.

RGAZ

 

[mike240]

Ok, that is a short period of time and in a somewhat controlled environment, in this case I recommend using Eastwood After Blast Metal Prep or something similar. Its a basic prep that cleans and protects the metal giving a slight etching and phosphate oxide coating for the paint to grip to. I would not recommend epoxy if you are planning on doing the bodywork so soon after applying, you may not get the epoxy cure time needed (check the instructions) but I DO recommend you do a complete epoxy and seal after bodywork. The After Blast Etch will just give you some time you need between steps and prevent flash rust and fingerprint rust. I have only used it once and it seemed to work fine if you follow the instructions.

RGAZ

everyone seems split on whether filler is to be under or a top of epoxy primer. You do body work on bare metal then epoxy?

 

[barbee6043]

Be careful (warned) cleaning metal with a phosphoric acid solution, primer applied over that can possibly cause a reaction, sometimes month later.

 

[RGAZ]

I do filler-type bodywork on epoxy primer base after any weld and hammer work on bare metal. As for the acid note, yes, if the acid stays in the unreacted form it can cause problems if covered, but your timeframe should work well (read the label clearly and do not ignore it). If you are very worried you can (and should) prep the metal again using your normal pre-cleaning steps before epoxy then body work. As normal I also do a 2K sealer coat before paint (just to be clear).

RGAZ

 

[barbee6043]

If you use something like Ospho be sure to apply a second wet coat later, let it set for 10 minutes or less based on temp. and wash good with water. That neutralizes it. Different primers and enamels can react to that acid treated metal although it is totally dry. Sometimes months later. Be warned.
Reason why to use an epoxy primer over the bare metal is epoxy sticks like crazy. and seals. Body filler tends to absorb moisture if given the chance. If you have bare metal, would you want a damp sponge on it?
Different co.'s have different primers with different chemistry. Each can react to whatever conditions differently.
Not saying I am right or anyone else is wrong.