Indy360-1 cylinder head on LA intake manifold

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sin

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Indy360-1 長方形ポートに LA インテークマニホールドを取り付けた人はいますか?
 

You will need to translate to English.
 
I had my builder install a Edelbrock tunnel ram on 360-1 heads for me. He just had to open the bolt holes some.

I can post some close up photos if it helps.

IMG_1616.png
 
I can’t speak about the port match between the LA intake to the Indy head, I can tell you that the Indy heads ports are larger and the attaching bolt holes are wider by a little bit that you will have to redrill the intake to match. The best way to go about this is to weld up the intake and re drill it.
While you could use a die grinder to oval out the bolt holes as a quick way to get the intake to bolt up, it is a spot that could be a source of oil leaks. A bit of RTV is a good thing to use on the intake bolts to seal up any possible leaks for any application, the wider hole will make any leak a big pain to deal with.

I am not sure if a port matching can be done. The Indy heads ports are still rectangle but not the same like a stock port. This could be an issue requiring epoxy to get it to work best.

What intake do you want to use?
 
I had my builder install a Edelbrock tunnel ram on 360-1 heads for me. He just had to open the bolt holes some.

I can post some close up photos if it helps.

How was the port match OOTB between the parts?
 
The head ports are bigger, but as my builder said, it’s better for the head ports to be larger than the intake ports.

These photos are the Indy heads with an Edelbrock LA gasket.

It has been on the dyno and no oil leaks or any problems.

I do have the intake that comes with these heads but wanted to keep the t-ram if possible.

IMG_8994.jpeg


IMG_8993.jpeg


IMG_8996.jpeg
 
I'm trying to install an Edelbrock TR-5, but am having trouble with the difference in port size and bolt pattern.
 
I can’t speak about the port match between the LA intake to the Indy head, I can tell you that the Indy heads ports are larger and the attaching bolt holes are wider by a little bit that you will have to redrill the intake to match. The best way to go about this is to weld up the intake and re drill it.
While you could use a die grinder to oval out the bolt holes as a quick way to get the intake to bolt up, it is a spot that could be a source of oil leaks. A bit of RTV is a good thing to use on the intake bolts to seal up any possible leaks for any application, the wider hole will make any leak a big pain to deal with.

I am not sure if a port matching can be done. The Indy heads ports are still rectangle but not the same like a stock port. This could be an issue requiring epoxy to get it to work best.

What intake do you want to use?
I have never used epoxy before, but is it effective for port matching?
 
I'm trying to install an Edelbrock TR-5, but am having trouble with the difference in port size and bolt pattern.
@coloradohill Thanks for the pictures. That helps a lot.

@sin The intake manifold bolt holes can be modified with a die grinder and the proper bit for aluminum to oval the holes to fit.

The port alignment can be adjusted with epoxy if need be. It is a common practice. My W2-MP-TR epoxy work below to align the ports to the head.

image.jpg
 
I’m pretty sure he didn’t have to do anything other than open up the bolt holes.
I’ll ask him again and update this post but, I’m 99.9% sure that he didn’t have to.
Thank you. If you have any other information please let me know.
 
私はビルダーに、360-1 ヘッドに Edelbrock トンネル ラムを取り付けてもらいました。ボルト穴を少し開けるだけで済みました。

役に立つなら、クローズアップ写真をいくつか投稿することもできます。

View attachment 1716360077
いいエンジンだ
@coloradohill Thanks for the pictures. That helps a lot.

@sin The intake manifold bolt holes can be modified with a die grinder and the proper bit for aluminum to oval the holes to fit.

The port alignment can be adjusted with epoxy if need be. It is a common practice. My W2-MP-TR epoxy work below to align the ports to the head.

View attachment 1716360115
Thanks for the great info. Is this Holley?
 
My concern is that matching the ports will make the manifold thinner, resulting in lack of strength and leaks.
 
いいエンジンだ

Thanks for the great info. Is this Holley?
You have to converter the written word into English.
The, “Is this a Holley” question is, No, it’s a MoPar Performance Tunnel Ram. It’s abbreviated like so;

MP- MoPar Performance
M1 - Denotes a MoPar intake.
TR - Tunnel Ram or DQ DualQuad or two 4 barrels
W2 is the MoPar Performance race iron head.
W5 is aluminum
These two above are closer to replacement style heads and will use an offset intake rocker and often a rocker stand so you have the ability to move them around.


W7, W8 and W9 are on the exotic side of the aluminum race heads from MoPar. Require very hard to get hardware and unusual parts. These heads are about a 1,000 HP naturally aspirated on the small blocks.

My concern is that matching the ports will make the manifold thinner, resulting in lack of strength and leaks.
Stop at .030 wall thickness. You’ll be Ok. If the ports do not expand out to the Indy heads ports, so t worry about it. Just try and get the middle and roof there first, side walls second, floor last. As it is of the least concern. The roof is most important followed by the sides and middle.
 
You have to converter the written word into English.
The, “Is this a Holley” question is, No, it’s a MoPar Performance Tunnel Ram. It’s abbreviated like so;

MP- MoPar Performance
M1 - Denotes a MoPar intake.
TR - Tunnel Ram or DQ DualQuad or two 4 barrels
W2 is the MoPar Performance race iron head.
W5 is aluminum
These two above are closer to replacement style heads and will use an offset intake rocker and often a rocker stand so you have the ability to move them around.


W7, W8 and W9 are on the exotic side of the aluminum race heads from MoPar. Require very hard to get hardware and unusual parts. These heads are about a 1,000 HP naturally aspirated on the small blocks.


Stop at .030 wall thickness. You’ll be Ok. If the ports do not expand out to the Indy heads ports, so t worry about it. Just try and get the middle and roof there first, side walls second, floor last. As it is of the least concern. The roof is most important followed by the sides and middle.
I'll take it into consideration!
Sorry, I'm not very good at English.
 
So tell us more, What car do you have and what engine are you building?

We love photos here.
My car is a 67 Dart. The engine is a 410 stroker based on a 360.
It runs well so I like it, but the cams and heads are a mystery,
so I'm thinking of putting together an Indy 360-1 I got a few years ago and Edelbrock TR to enjoy some changes.
 
My carbs are Holley if that’s what you’re asking. they are 550 T-ram carbs from Allstate Carburetor in New York.

550 HOLLEY TUNNEL RAM CARBURETORS - Allstate Carburetor

Talk to Jared or Jim, they are very good at what they do.
I used to live very close to that shop. Good crew there.
I'll take it into consideration!
Sorry, I'm not very good at English.

Thank you but, your apology is not necessary.
Your diction, spelling and punctuation are excellent.
I just can’t read Japanese text. My aunt never taught me!

Your car looks very good. You might want to think about a fiberglass hood as not to cut into the OEM hood. I know this is probably very expensive. But how many hoods are in Japan?
 
My car is a 67 Dart. The engine is a 410 stroker based on a 360.
It runs well so I like it, but the cams and heads are a mystery,
so I'm thinking of putting together an Indy 360-1 I got a few years ago and Edelbrock TR to enjoy some changes.
Very nice! It’s a tire burner for sure!

Thanks for posting.

If you are in Japan, it’s gotta be the only one around I would think.
 
I used to live very close to that shop. Good crew there @rumblefish360

They are the best I’ve found. They don’t mind talking to you on the phone and go out of their way to put kits together and whatever it is you need.
 
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