Installed Cold Case MOP755 in my 68 Dart

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RBConvert

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Sprung a pinhole leak in the original radiator and even though the Dart doesn't haven't overheating issues, this was the time to replace with an aluminum unit. Based upon the positive reviews on this site for Cold Case they were my first choice. Even though it's a 68 Dart it has a magnum 360 crate motor so the inlet is on the passenger side. Took measurements and called CC and talked to Dave. We both decided the 755 was the best fit.
The radiator arrived in good shape except for a ding on the lower drivers side mounting bracket. It's been mentioned before on this site and Dave admits that the old styrofoam packaging wasn't quite up to par and newer units have updated packing.
Bottom line the unit installed with only minor tweaking of the mounting bracket and my fan shroud. The mounting holes on the rad bulkhead are 14" center-to-center on the passenger side and 14 5/8" on the drivers side; don't know if this is unique to my car or 68's in general. The CC radiator is 14" on both sides, hence breaking out the Dremel. While the rad was out I took the opportunity to change out the POS chrome thermostat housing, paint the fan and clean up the front of the engine compartment. Took it out for a spin yesterday and no leaks, no issues.
Have to give a final shout out to Dave at CC for his help.

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Before shot
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Sprung a pinhole leak in the original radiator and even though the Dart doesn't haven't overheating issues, this was the time to replace with an aluminum unit. Based upon the positive reviews on this site for Cold Case they were my first choice. Even though it's a 68 Dart it has a magnum 360 crate motor so the inlet is on the passenger side. Took measurements and called CC and talked to Dave. We both decided the 755 was the best fit.
The radiator arrived in good shape except for a ding on the lower drivers side mounting bracket. It's been mentioned before on this site and Dave admits that the old styrofoam packaging wasn't quite up to par and newer units have updated packing.
Bottom line the unit installed with only minor tweaking of the mounting bracket and my fan shroud. The mounting holes on the rad bulkhead are 14" center-to-center on the passenger side and 14 5/8" on the drivers side; don't know if this is unique to my car or 68's in general. The CC radiator is 14" on both sides, hence breaking out the Dremel. While the rad was out I took the opportunity to change out the POS chrome thermostat housing, paint the fan and clean up the front of the engine compartment. Took it out for a spin yesterday and no leaks, no issues.
Have to give a final shout out to Dave at CC for his help.

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Before shot
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Cold Case you say - interesting
What is the Country of origin of the radiator?
 
They are out of PA but I don't know where their cores come from. I still don't understand why these aftermarket radiators aren't a bolt-in, every single one of them from every company needs to be "tweaked"...
 
If you go with their fan setup make sure they are wired correctly. It was reversed polarity on mine, couldn’t figure out why the heck it wouldn’t cool! Turns out the fans were pushing air instead of pulling. However I still am waiting for a response from my email to their warranty department.
 
The install looks good!

I noticed the gap between the radiator and the shroud. That's the way the OEM setup was on these models and we've determined that if you fill that gap, you'll get a much better suction affect which will help you run even cooler in stop and go driving.

One member here made a metal bracket. I personally used a heavy cell foam rubber weatherstrip.
 
They are out of PA but I don't know where their cores come from. I still don't understand why these aftermarket radiators aren't a bolt-in, every single one of them from every company needs to be "tweaked"...
I can't speak for why other companies that don't make them fit perfect but as with most classic car installs, it's very common (as in this case) for an owner to choose a motor and water pump that is not specific to that car. Hence you have a hybrid of a particular car. The possible combinations are literally endless. So just like when you put a different motor in the car, there are 'things' that need to be worked out, the same goes for a radiator.

We have a direct bolt in 67-69 Radiator that some of the members here on the forums helped us design. It does fit literally perfect. However, the owner's application caused the outlet positions to change and therefore dictated a different radiator.

Overall, most owners would agree that the 'tweak' is a small price to pay for knowing you have the best cooling radiator available, has OEM style stamped tanks and that it will be the last one you'll ever have to buy. :)
 
Well we know what that means.
To bad.
If you want to be upset about buying American vs not, that's a valid point but I think it's kind of uncool when a guy comes on your forum to share his 'good' experience and then make him feel like he's not so welcome to contribute. If everyone did that, you wouldn't have this awesome forum community. :(
 
I can't speak for why other companies that don't make them fit perfect but as with most classic car installs, it's very common (as in this case) for an owner to choose a motor and water pump that is not specific to that car. Hence you have a hybrid of a particular car. The possible combinations are literally endless. So just like when you put a different motor in the car, there are 'things' that need to be worked out, the same goes for a radiator.

We have a direct bolt in 67-69 Radiator that some of the members here on the forums helped us design. It does fit literally perfect. However, the owner's application caused the outlet positions to change and therefore dictated a different radiator.

Overall, most owners would agree that the 'tweak' is a small price to pay for knowing you have the best cooling radiator available, has OEM style stamped tanks and that it will be the last one you'll ever have to buy. :)
We have a saying here in the Ozark Mountains IMHO it applies well here.
" Hog wash"
 
If you want to be upset about buying American vs not, that's a valid point but I think it's kind of uncool when a guy comes on your forum to share his 'good' experience and then make him feel like he's not so welcome to contribute. If everyone did that, you wouldn't have this awesome forum community. :(
I am glad you feel that I made a "valid point" that was my intent.
 
I just receive my Cold Case radiator the other day, part number MOP756A it's for my 1968 Barracuda 340/727. I opened the box and all looks well, I won't be installing it for a few more weeks though until after the engine compartment is painted and the drive train goes in. I dealt with Eric at Cold Case and had a P.M. on here with Ccas and they were very professional with all the questions that I had asked them. The only thing I noticed was that the brass fittings for the cooler line were not included even though it was my under standing that they were built in. No big deal though they are readily available. I will post how it fit and how it looks when it's in.
Bob
 
I can't speak for why other companies that don't make them fit perfect but as with most classic car installs, it's very common (as in this case) for an owner to choose a motor and water pump that is not specific to that car. Hence you have a hybrid of a particular car. The possible combinations are literally endless. So just like when you put a different motor in the car, there are 'things' that need to be worked out, the same goes for a radiator.

We have a direct bolt in 67-69 Radiator that some of the members here on the forums helped us design. It does fit literally perfect. However, the owner's application caused the outlet positions to change and therefore dictated a different radiator.

Overall, most owners would agree that the 'tweak' is a small price to pay for knowing you have the best cooling radiator available, has OEM style stamped tanks and that it will be the last one you'll ever have to buy. :)

My point was that the OP had to "tweak" a bolt hole in order for it to bolt in! The position of the factory bolt pattern never changes, it is pretty simple to make sure that the aftermarket radiator physically bolts onto the factory core support, how hard is that?
 
My point was that the OP had to "tweak" a bolt hole in order for it to bolt in! The position of the factory bolt pattern never changes, it is pretty simple to make sure that the aftermarket radiator physically bolts onto the factory core support, how hard is that?
I totally get your frustration. I know it seems simple and we did exactly what you are wishing someone would do for Mopars on Pontiacs. We made every single version as a direct fit from 64-67. That was about 10 models and we're the only ones in the industry that did it with performance radiators.
Unfortunately, Mopar made a LOT of radiator support changes from 60-75. A, B, C and E all very similar but for whatever reason, the mounting positions were not exact. There's also way more motor options for Mopar guys. So if we end up making the 22" B body first, then that one ends up being a 'tweak' on the A-body until we find an A-body to tweak that one as well. In our case, we DID make a direct fit for the 67-69 A body. No excuses...exact fit. However, then an owner like a lot of us comes along and says, I want to change the inlet/outlet position because I want to put a different motor in there. We'd have to make about 40 different radiators to be 'exact' for the mopar community if you are including motor swaps.

We do continue to monitor these forums and upgrade our radiators as our goal is for the customer to not have to Tweak any OEM applications.

Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. :)
 
I just receive my Cold Case radiator the other day, part number MOP756A it's for my 1968 Barracuda 340/727. I opened the box and all looks well, I won't be installing it for a few more weeks though until after the engine compartment is painted and the drive train goes in. I dealt with Eric at Cold Case and had a P.M. on here with Ccas and they were very professional with all the questions that I had asked them. The only thing I noticed was that the brass fittings for the cooler line were not included even though it was my under standing that they were built in. No big deal though they are readily available. I will post how it fit and how it looks when it's in.
Bob
Bob, the AT fitting is welded into the bottom tank on yours right? We almost always have the correct thread built in. If yours needs adapters, just let us know. we can send you a pair.
 
I knew going in that the mounting holes might be off a little. The 755 is for a post 1969 Dart. My 68 now has a 360 motor that wasn't available in 68, and the car was originally a /6.
I gave Dave measurements and additional pics of the install. Knowing that lots of 67 - 9 Dart owners install magnum engines, he plans to use the information to expand CC offerings to the Mopar community. Not many vendors out there that cater to Mopars so I for one appreciate the time he spent not just assisting me with the purchase but also talking about future projects.
 
If you go with their fan setup make sure they are wired correctly. It was reversed polarity on mine, couldn’t figure out why the heck it wouldn’t cool! Turns out the fans were pushing air instead of pulling. However I still am waiting for a response from my email to their warranty department.
No need. The factory shroud and fan have worked fine so far.
 
The install looks good!

I noticed the gap between the radiator and the shroud. That's the way the OEM setup was on these models and we've determined that if you fill that gap, you'll get a much better suction affect which will help you run even cooler in stop and go driving.

One member here made a metal bracket. I personally used a heavy cell foam rubber weatherstrip.
That's why I took the one pic. The Dart hasn't had a hood to radiator seal or hood to cowl seal since I owned it. Just ordered the pair this weekend from DMT. I've seen people use the cell foam rubber, even pool noodles.
 
Thanks Ccas and yes the fittings are welded in the bottom of the tank, I just asked the wrong question. When I talked to Eric I should have explained myself better on what I was looking for (the adapters). If I can't find them locally I will order a set from Cold Case.
Once again Thanks for your help.
Bob
 
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