installed new brake light switch onA833

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Dave NEO

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and changed out the gear oil - now I got some intermittent noise when clutch pedal is depressed that disappears when I let up on pedal a bit - what gives? - Sounds like it's dragging/ spinning maybe. This was not there before.
Used GL4 85-90 Stay -Lub. It might be lighter than what was in there before but I don't know for sure. Any ideas on what is happening appreciated. Can I at least rule out the new switch as a possibility? thanks
 
You only need to press the pedal down far enough to achieve sufficient clutch departure such that it does not grind going into reverse. Any more than that is just wasted motion and extra stress on the parts, and in rare cases drives the fingers into the back of the disc. It may be helpful to increase the freeplay, or move your seat back,lol

I cannot for the life of me think how replacing a brake-light switch, with no other changes, could affect the clutch-fork action.
 
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OK- maybe I'm mashing it too far down. Agree on the switch - though I did see it mentioned in another thread as a possibility for some shifting issues.
thanks for your comments. I might try some heavier gear oil if this continues. Whatever it was in there seemed more 'gooey' than the 85-90 I used to refill.
Any info on this site on how to increase freeplay as you suggested.?
 
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Heavier grade oil does two things maybe three.
1) it slows the gears down faster,and sometimes but rarely is that a good thing, and
2) It takes longer to get squeezed out from between the brass and the brake, making the shift take longer, and
3) IDK , I'm thinking. There has gotta be a number 3.
Ok here's one; when cold it helps prevent grinding into reverse by dragging the disc to a stop; 'course if you have the departure set right in the first place.........

I run the thinnest oil I can get away with for the fastest possible shifts; I don't want to see any breaks in the blackies, to indicate a shift. That is time spent not under power, and serves nothing but to slow me down......lol. Yes I'm kidding; I have 3.55 gears so first gets me to over 60 mph,lol. I should say used to.
I run 50/50 ATF and 75or80/90 . That gives the cluster pin enough protection to go at least 135,000 miles, maybe double that, cuz it was used when I put it in there; for all I know it could be an original 1968 pin.
 
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roger on the the thin stuff. Hey the PO of my car mentionede my noise may be from 18 spline hemi clutch disc...says 'springs are to big on the new ones". Not exactly sure what he means by that but I try not to pester the guy....If that is something you might have insight to please let me know. thanks. It is a'72 A-833 hemi 18 spline. May be not perfect matchup for '68 383 A-body.
 
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I would not know that or how to determine. I'm not what I'd call a real wrencher on these if you haven't noticed.
 
Well I've never had an 18 spline input, so I'can't speak to that.
But I did notice that on the 23 spline regular trans,
And a 340 disc, and old Zoom 3400# 3-finger B&B pressure plate
and 185psi cylinder pressure;
My 367 kept spitting out the springs, because they smashed the retaining plates up. After I switched to a CenterForce this problem went away. But now, I had a bit of rattle at very low idle...... which I attributed to the strong power pulses of the cam, at 185psi, that the springs were transmitting straight into the cluster gear..
So, I'm guessing your disc springs are doing the same thing, namely transmitting the power pulses into the cluster gear.
I found that CFII disc Too good,if you can imagine that. It busted a lot of parts behind it, and eventually I went back to a 340 disc,and eventually learned to be a little nicer to it.
I'm pretty sure the high cylinder pressure and a bit of a lopey idle, caused the rattle. That 270/276/110cam was in there for about 4 years. The next cam was a 276/286/110, so the lope was a bit more,but the 340 disc is handling it, altho I'm on the third one,in the CF. Hyup, still spitting out springs and tearing off the linings. I haven't actually worn one out yet. The CF pressure plate is still looking real good tho,lol.
And that's why I asked about cylinder pressure. My stock Low-C 318 bolted up to all the same parts never rattled, with its modest 140psi
 
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Understand most of that - well I can live with some noise and being careful with it but is this headed for a catastrophic failure at some point? Would I be driving/shifting at all if any spring damaged/broken? It has a mild cam and a bit of a lope a - builder said springs too large so maybe he was making same point you are in different way.
 
had it out twice for 10-20 min last couple days - all seems OK when driving, shifts and pulls good etc. - when stopped w/clutch in idling, sometimes I get the whirring sound, then I shift into neutral and let clutch pedal up and noise goes away when pedal comes about 1/2 way up. Suppose I'll avoid driving it and look for a local shop that works on these older cars - some of guys at the cruise-ins might recommend one for mopars..
 
If I am hearing you right, you're getting the noise only when the clutch is depressed. That would seem to indicate a throw-out bearing going bad.
 
yes. when I start to let up on the pedal I hear it start to grind or whirr about half way up then it goes away when pedal is full up. Suppose that's best description I can give. Sometimes it's less, sometimes longer duration. Don't think it's there when I'm rolling along in gear..
 
I would be pulling the gearbox or at the least get the car up and get under there and pull the inspection cover, get a mirror and lamp, pull the fork boot. Get a "pal" (or your girlfriend) and check T/O movement, clutch finger to disc interference, etc
 
I
Suppose I'll avoid driving it and look for a local shop that works on these older cars - some of guys at the cruise-ins might recommend one for mopars..

If NEO refers to Noth East Ohio then you need yo to to the show this Sunday st Junction Auto in Chardon. 400 Mopars.

You asked so...free play is adjusted under the car. It's the adjustable rod between the Z bar and the clutch arm that comes out of the bellhousing.
 
yes thanks -tried a few free play adjustments either way, no change. Tried a new clutch fork fork spring with no change. I suppose I will be at Mentor High show Sunday - all events seem to be crammed into the 2nd and 3rd weeks of June around here. Removed inspection cover and found what may be a lot of play in the TO bearing - don't know how much it should move/wiggle around on the shaft. Did not see a lot of oil/grease noted in there as a possible issue. Saw what may have been a few tiny shiny metal specs inside/around the housing which I suppose could be signs of bearing wear. Comments? AJ, wher are u when we need u??:thankyou:
 
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