installing intake is a B****

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phaelax

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More of a rant than anything, but I can't be the only person who's having this much trouble bolting down the intake. I spent an hour or two and could never get more than half the bolts lined up to reinstall it. I've done it before and I remember it was a pain in the butt then as well. I wonder if something was shaved down a millimeter at some point and it's just throwing it off a hair. Oh, and I lost a header bolt. I'm just frustrated this week already!
 
On a serious note, try using pieces of a cardboard box folded for shims to hold it up some as you drop in the bolts just till they bite and remove the shims.... Tighten down in torque pattern and viola...Intake manifold installed
 
That's what the politicans wanted us to go to, so all the car manufacturers went to metric. Then the powers in office decided not to go there, so now we're stuck with metric cars and everything else standard.
 
The hardest part for me is always finding a way to get a socket on the bolts to torque them. Several of them I have to use a box wrench and torque by feel. ARP bolts are no help at all, unless you want to invest in 12 point sockets.
 
I have installed a big block intake literally with my eyes closed, in a pitch black garage at night with no power, in less than an hour, including the throttle cable and return spring bracket.
 
Same issue with putting LD4B intake on. Carb plenum gets in the way and no room for torque wrench on middle bolts. MAC tools/Toolmanmike sells an adapter wrench that fits torque wrench.
PITA without one.
The hardest part for me is always finding a way to get a socket on the bolts to torque them. Several of them I have to use a box wrench and torque by feel. ARP bolts are no help at all, unless you want to invest in 12 point sockets.
 
How do things line up with no gaskets at all? These problems generally occur when there has been extensive milling of the components without compensatory milling.
 
The intake should go right on and the bolts should slide into place if the machine work is done correctly. You can move the intake around a little bit by using thinner or thicker gaskets. You can get paper gaskets as thin as 0.015 or as thick as 0.060 which gives you some adjustment. If you can't get stuff to line up with gaskets then you have some other problem. Either the deck was cut or the heads have been cut or someone messed with the intake. If everything is correct you should be able to change intake manifolds in minutes. I just finished up a dyno test session where we changed intake manifolds and had the engine back up and running in less than 15 minutes.
 
It's commie speak for hundreths of an inch
Actually it's called the Metric System and you guys need to get on it.... LOL. Come on guys, catch up will ya... LOL... Just like the date system that everyone else uses, you guys are your own breed... LOL. Today's date is the 09/04/2017... Not a communist thing, just a progressive thing... LOL
 
Same issue with putting LD4B intake on. Carb plenum gets in the way and no room for torque wrench on middle bolts. MAC tools/Toolmanmike sells an adapter wrench that fits torque wrench.
PITA without one.

I tighten the center ones by hand...

First get them nice and tight with a combination wrench...

Then torque the outer ones in sequence...

then put the combination wrench on a torqued bolt to get the feel for how hard it should turn...
'
Then go back and tighten the center bolts to that same feel....
 
Wtf is a millimeter?

It's about .040" in laymen's terms...


Actually it's called the Metric System and you guys need to get on it.... LOL. Come on guys, catch up will ya... LOL... Just like the date system that everyone else uses, you guys are your own breed... LOL. Today's date is the 09/04/2017... Not a communist thing, just a progressive thing... LOL

I speak metric... :popcorn:
 
Here is an intake going on. I think it took 3 minutes to install. I snapped a picture and put the camera away and the dyno guy was already dropping the carb in place.

DSC_0500 (Large).JPG
 
Had a neighbor help me out. Took one of us to push on it from one side while the other managed to get a bolt threaded. Move around and repeat. The bolts must have been some soft aluminum, cause two ended up with stripped threads (not the block). With the thicker silicone valve cover gasket, my existing bolts for those were too short and had to get new ones anyway so I just stopped at jegs on the way home and bought some arp bolts for both. A tad bit more expensive than I expected for a couple bolts.

One thing I did notice, the valve cover bolt by the rear of the engine doesn't actually screw into anything! It's as if the corner of that head was shaved off, exposing half the threads to that bolt hole. I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow if I can.

On a side note, this thread sure escalated....
 
Something isnt right if it takes 2 people pushing/pulling and putting weight on it. Somethings been machined.
Uh oh on valve cover
 
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