Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I am going to be installing a new head liner in my 64 Valiant 4 door sdn. The car is going to get AC in the future. What is the preferred material/method to insulate the roof, prior to the headliner install
Insulating cab
- Thread starter Charrlie_S
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
One car I took apart, and don't remember, it may have been the 74 Scamp which had to be re-roofed, and it had the rigid liner, had a thin fiberglass blanket, seems like it was only 3/8 or 1/2 or so thick. So if you could find some of that flex blanket stuff with foil on each side.........
Something to keep in mind...
As in your house.
You want the insulation in contact with the outer surface and the vapor barrier to the inside of the car.
Otherwise you can create a cold spot on the inside sheet metal that will condense moisture.
The transition point (ie the place where the temperature is low enough to condense water vapor) should be in the middle of the insulation.
As in your house.
You want the insulation in contact with the outer surface and the vapor barrier to the inside of the car.
Otherwise you can create a cold spot on the inside sheet metal that will condense moisture.
The transition point (ie the place where the temperature is low enough to condense water vapor) should be in the middle of the insulation.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I recently put a new headliner in my 1965 Dart. I used the aluminum foil-bubble plastic sheet at Home Depot, using several glues - Gorilla Glue (polyurethane which foams a bit), ER7000, and drops of superglue to hold it while the others cure and holding it up with the bows. I used one layer of sections cut between the cross-members and one overall layer, stuffing it into the gaps at the front, back, and side frames. I did similar on my 1965 Newport ~1992 and haven't noticed degradation, though haven't been "in there". I used drops of Gorilla Glue at the teeth which grab the headliner at all edges as belt & suspenders, holding it with binder clips until it hardened. The rear window and gasket was out at the time (removed for painting) but the front windshield was in and was able to work the headliner past the gasket.
BTW, I found that, unlike the front, the rear window must come out and go in with the gasket attached. Found the hard way by trying to pry it out of the gasket and shattered it (lucked into a used replacement locally). You work the inside rubber lip over the body pinch weld. I used the rope trick when re-installing and first bedded the glass in the rubber gasket with proper elastomeric caulk (butyl rubber? forget) to avoid leaks. I used a roll of round sealant (Amazon) on the outside between rubber an inner stainless trim before clipping in the outer stainless trim (careful pushing into clips to not dent it, one oops).
The sail panels were degraded, so I had tossed most remnants of that hardboard stuff. I cut new ones from ABS sheet, using internet photos as guide. I glued thin polyfoam to both sides, stuff that comes in electronics packaging. Otherwise, they would rattle on the metal sides and might see the screw heads thru the headliner (glued over). I used a door clip in round holes where they fit, screw into a plastic license holder where they fit in a square hole, and drilled a few small holes at the rear for stainless screws.
BTW, I found that, unlike the front, the rear window must come out and go in with the gasket attached. Found the hard way by trying to pry it out of the gasket and shattered it (lucked into a used replacement locally). You work the inside rubber lip over the body pinch weld. I used the rope trick when re-installing and first bedded the glass in the rubber gasket with proper elastomeric caulk (butyl rubber? forget) to avoid leaks. I used a roll of round sealant (Amazon) on the outside between rubber an inner stainless trim before clipping in the outer stainless trim (careful pushing into clips to not dent it, one oops).
The sail panels were degraded, so I had tossed most remnants of that hardboard stuff. I cut new ones from ABS sheet, using internet photos as guide. I glued thin polyfoam to both sides, stuff that comes in electronics packaging. Otherwise, they would rattle on the metal sides and might see the screw heads thru the headliner (glued over). I used a door clip in round holes where they fit, screw into a plastic license holder where they fit in a square hole, and drilled a few small holes at the rear for stainless screws.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Bill
Rear window is out, and pinchweld repaired. Going to install insulation and the headliner to about the middle of the car. Reinstall the rear window.
Then remove the windshield, and repair the pinchweld area. Then complete the headliner, and new windshield install.
Rear window is out, and pinchweld repaired. Going to install insulation and the headliner to about the middle of the car. Reinstall the rear window.
Then remove the windshield, and repair the pinchweld area. Then complete the headliner, and new windshield install.
I used KilMat on mine. On the roof, floors, trunk. It works well.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
How much of the roof did you cover? How many kits did it take? I want to do the roof on my Swinger.
I did the same as RRR, Kilmat on my D-150. I ran it as far as I could get it up the firewall, did all of the floor, and up the back of the cab to just under the rear window. It took about a box and a half so I'd guess something similar for roof coverage on your Dart.
Here ya go. They have it in a smaller box too, depending on what you need.
Amazon product ASIN B0751CBXBT
Amazon product ASIN B0751CBXBT
Call me a patriot,
But no thank you!
But no thank you!
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Fair, but you gotta pay to play that game
Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Sound Deadener Made in USA - 22 Sheets (12" X 20") = 36.5 Sq ft https://a.co/d/aUzGJTn
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Keep the sugestions coming
All of it. All of the floors, too. I read all about it and how you don't have to cover it all, but I did anyway. It gets hot as hades here in the summer and I wanted all the protection I could get. I believe it took three boxes if I remember right. I want to do the doors too, next.
That doesn't interest me in the least. I went by the best reviews per dollar spent. Kilmat won out. Russia doesn't bother me at all. China is the one I'm concerned with. I firmly believe when all this shakes out, we're gonna find out Zelenskyy needed his *** kicked. But that's gettin off on a tangent that doesn't belong here.
I used the same sound deadening “insulation” on the roof as I used on the floor. I believe it was Siless brand, similar to the kilmat that RRR used. I only had two sheets left, and used it more to take away the tin can sound of the roof and really didn’t expect any thermal improvement, but as you can see in the picture, it does make a difference in that area as well. The heater melted the snow off of the roof where it wasn’t insulated.
I may end up adding something like this to the roof yet before installing a headliner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
I may end up adding something like this to the roof yet before installing a headliner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Can't say how well it works yet, but decided to go with Lizard Skin spray on Sound control and Lizard Skin spray on Ceramic Insulation over the top of the Sound Control.
These are just another option to the stick on sound insulation sheets or the big box home improvement store thermal insulation materials.
Decided to go this way since the car is completely disassembled.
Will be go on fast and will be easier to get into any hard to reach areas.
Was really impressed with their Ceramic Thermal Insulation demo and wanted to use it to keep engine, exhaust and sun from heating the passenger compartment through the firewall, floor, ceiling and doors. Decided to use their sound control too since they both are spray on.
Instructions call for the Sound Control to be applied first.
Both are water based, non-toxic. 2 coats of each will total 80mils of thickness if applied according to Lizard Skin's instructions.
Apply 20mil coats with drying time between coats. 2 20mil coats of sound control and 2 20mil coats of ceramic thermal insulation = Total 80mils
Some of the sound deadening sheet materials are 80mils think alone.
Already have U-Pol Raptor® bedliner applied as undercoating, that should help some with the sound too.
These are just another option to the stick on sound insulation sheets or the big box home improvement store thermal insulation materials.
Decided to go this way since the car is completely disassembled.
Will be go on fast and will be easier to get into any hard to reach areas.
Was really impressed with their Ceramic Thermal Insulation demo and wanted to use it to keep engine, exhaust and sun from heating the passenger compartment through the firewall, floor, ceiling and doors. Decided to use their sound control too since they both are spray on.
Instructions call for the Sound Control to be applied first.
Both are water based, non-toxic. 2 coats of each will total 80mils of thickness if applied according to Lizard Skin's instructions.
Apply 20mil coats with drying time between coats. 2 20mil coats of sound control and 2 20mil coats of ceramic thermal insulation = Total 80mils
Some of the sound deadening sheet materials are 80mils think alone.
Already have U-Pol Raptor® bedliner applied as undercoating, that should help some with the sound too.
100% physical proof that it WORKS.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Lizard Skin Thermal Insulation Demo
I like the idea.
I sent them a question on removal. Like if you have to do bodywork etc.
Here is their reply about removal.
"Thankfully, our water-based coatings can easily be removed with a wirewheel or grinder. Our coatings are commonly used in this fashion and can easily be touched up if needed. The spray application makes covering new or repaired areas with ease and allows for a seamless finish after everything has dried and cured.
Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions or concerns at any step in your project.
Best regards,
Cody Watson"
so not so easy to remove as apply but it looks like it's removable like paint before body work
"Thankfully, our water-based coatings can easily be removed with a wirewheel or grinder. Our coatings are commonly used in this fashion and can easily be touched up if needed. The spray application makes covering new or repaired areas with ease and allows for a seamless finish after everything has dried and cured.
Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions or concerns at any step in your project.
Best regards,
Cody Watson"
so not so easy to remove as apply but it looks like it's removable like paint before body work
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